| Author | Message | ||
     Chorizo |
After some frustration trying to change rotors, Im thinking to change torx bolts to allens. Anybody do this and have a short list of what to order? Any ticks to get these suckers off? Arg! | ||
| Tootal |
I had to put a torx bit on an impact driver to break some of them loose. If you replace them do so with the proper grade bolt or order new ones from HD or American Sportbike. Use blue loctite too. | ||
| Bikelit |
New torx socket and some heat to soften the loctite......... | ||
| Motorbike |
If you destroy the Torx head on the bolt like I did on 2 of mine, you can easily drill the heads off, pull the rotor off and then use a Vise-Grip pliers to remove the rest of the bolt. Not hard to do at all. You are supposed to replace the bolts anyway. Just be careful to not drill into the rotor! Thanks. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I used one of these that I've had for about 40 years. Has a 3/8th drive and you just push down on it and twist in the direction you want to go and hit it repeatedly with a hammer and it breaks those nuts free quite easily. Of course you have to use a torque bit that fits the bolt your busting free .http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-009 47641000P | ||
| Danair |
Got this tip from Al when I bought 2010 wheel. With Torx bit in place, several hard taps on it with hammer straight down before loosening. It works. Don't really trust an Allen head with that much torque,plus it needs to be grade 8. | ||
| Chorizo |
Thanks everyone! I ended up heating the Torx head and using an impact gun to slowly remove. Came right out. Dont know if I had to but made sure the tip of the torx was just perfectly seated with a good amount of downward pressure. BTW I didnt see in the book anything about locktite But I noticed it was on the threads when removed and so I used just a dab hoping next time it'll be more friendly. I will order new bolts but wonder why we need new ones when the old ones hold so well. Semi lol | ||
| Uly_dude |
what are the thread pitch(s) for the sprocket and rotor? I was thinking of buying new hex head bolts for both sides and being done with allen and torq head screws. | ||
| Arcticktm |
The SM likely does not say to use thread lock because they tell you to use new bolts, and the OEM bolts come with a pre-applied dry thread lock on them. I know that was the case on my front brake rotor, and the stator bolts IIRC. As for why the SM says to replace, there are usually 2 reasons that will make the OEM say that: 1. The fastener is "torque-to-yield" at the factory. This means the bolt was stretched to a point where it permanently deforms (though not visible by eye). This can give a more consistent bolted joint, but it means you can only torque the fastener once and get the proper results. Do it again and you risk breakage or a weaker than expected joint. This has become common on applications such as cylinder head bolts and flywheel bolts. I wouldn't think the torque on these is nearly enough to yield this grade of fastener, but I have not checked to be sure. 2. The bolt has a pre-applied thread lock or sealant on it, and the factory wants to play it safe and have you use the same sealant, rather than putting on a liquid Loc-Tite or other product. Again, the pre-applied stuff only works right the first time. | ||
| 7873jake |
I'm converting everything on the bike to Huck bolts this weekend. To heck with the torque wrench and torque values. I'm tossing the torque wrenches and never looking back. | ||
| Union_man |
I looked up Huck Bolts here... http://www.ehow.com/how_6150983_install-huck-bolt. html Never heard of them before. Very interesting. Has anyone used them? What are the downsides? | ||
| Nobuell |
Jake is kidding. Huck Bolts are permanent connections that are primarily used to connect faying surfaces. They were used back in the day for ductwork flange fasteners until it was found that the gasket was over compressed and could not be adjusted. They must be ground off to remove. | ||
| Danair |
Hucks are used all over airplanes. You don't want to have to remove one. | ||
| 7873jake |
we build mobile command vehicles in my line o' work and the International trucks we we build on for some jobs have Huck bolts all over their chassis. You ain't lyin about not wanting to have to remove one | ||
| Tiltcylinder |
Danair is dead on... steel fasteners in aluminum = very difficult removal, especially with the shallow, dome topped fasteners. Two or three hard whacks ( I prefer a 32oz dead-blow ballpeen) and they usually break free right off. I don't even try to remove sprocket or disc bolts without doing that first. Dozens of busted snap-on sockets and knuckles can't be wrong. I also use blue locktite on ANY bolt going into aluminum. I'd much rather work a bit harder to remove a bolt than install a helicoil. A lesson learned the hard way over man many years. | ||
| Chorizo |
Hey Tilt, You use locktite on ANY bolt going into aluminum? Does it also act as a kind of anti-seize? Cause Ive run into a lot of bolts in aluminum that are seized and frustrating. Id like to find on of those impact whacker tools that hold torx bit. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Get a set of torx bits set in 3/8" sockets and they fit right onto the 3/8" impact driver. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
http://www.labsafety.com/westward-6-piece-38-drive -torx-bit-socket-socket-set_s_140550/ http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-reversible-im pact-driver-set-93481.html http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-14-and-38-dri ve-star-bit-set-67914.html | ||
| Chorizo |
Got the 3/8 set. If your not careful they strip faster than a.... Now the seven piece looks like the thing. Bits are cheap. But keeps its clothes on. | ||
| Tiltcylinder |
Chorizo, Yes... I use it on all bolts going into aluminum. There's some sort of interaction between the dissimilar metals (electrolysis... I don't know, but I slept at a...) that 'rots' them together. The locktite definitely stops that. Even the stainless button heads that hold the plastics on get it. A little tougher to remove locktited bolts, but it doesn't remove the threads with the bolt! For stainless hardware, I run all the bolts through the proper sized die prior to installation... it stops the galling or whatever that seems to happen with stainless into aluminum; plus locktite of course. The impact drivers are inexpensive, used to be available everywhere (Sears, Depot, Lowes) and you're a lot less likely to strip the head of the fastener. They usually cost less than 20 bucks, come in a little tin case with 2 phillips, 2 flat and 3/8" square adaptors (without the adaptors, it's a 1/2" square drive). There is a low strength (purpleish color) that I like to use on carbs and such things where neither the bolt/screw or the component are very strong. | ||
| Danair |
Dissimilar metal corrosion it is! Add a little electrolyte and there you go. Atmospheric moisture is sufficient. A barrier between the materials is the only solution, which you are doing with the Locktite. Even different alloys of the same metal do it. | ||
| Djohnk |
I like to use tiny dabs of anti-seize compound on the stainless screws in non-critical plastic body parts like the flyscreen and and airbox cover. I know you guys are going to say that my bike will fall apart with the vibrations and all, but I haven't lost any bolts or screws yet. Some critical places like the brake rotor, throttle body butterfly plate screws, etc. I do use Loctite. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Djohnk, I only Loctite the pulley and rotor bolts. The rest I just tighten and like you I've not lost a one. I don't loctite the axle pinch bolt or either of the brake caliper bolts. I find that when you torque hardened bolts to spec into aluminum that they stay put without gluing them in. |
