| Author | Message | ||
     Johnnyrocket246 |
with all this talk of crank failures, wondering if anyone has made it past 40k on a 07? | ||
| Dirt |
I've been fortunate with the engine in my 07. Should flip over to 100k miles sometime this week. | ||
| Wbrisett |
I'm only at 30K. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Dirt, What was your ULY's build date? | ||
| Beached |
Just turned 65000 kilometers, about 40K miles, no problem. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Good info! Are you all interested in sharing your build dates for the other thread? | ||
| Yjsrule |
I know a guy around here with one that had about 70k on it last time I saw it a few months ago. | ||
| Dirt |
Last 4 digits of VIN number are 0423. Bike was built in Sep 06. Turned 100k miles today on the way home from work. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Thanks! Logged. | ||
| Idaho_buelly |
"Last 4 digits of VIN number are 0423. Bike was built in Sep 06. Turned 100k miles today on the way home from work." That is awesome!! Congrats!  | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Dirt, Does the engine and frame still feel tight? I mean, does it still feel like a new bike with that many miles on it? My ULY miles pales in comparison but the bike still feels like new. | ||
| Dirt |
EG, Hard to say without having a new one to compare, but: I did put a new front isolator on a while back when the mount bolt snapped off in the head. Changed the fluid in the front forks at the same time. That certainly made the front feel new again. The rear shock has probably seen better days. No leaks but it is definitely softer than when new. At around 85k miles I cranked the settings up a few clicks because I noticed the bike bouncing a little more. It's not bad, just noticeable if I use the settings recommended in the manual. That being said, for the type of riding I do (mainly commuting on the interstate) it's fine. I looked to buy a low mileage used shock, but even used ones cost more than it was worth to me. I'm sure the Squid types on the board would would have already replaced the rear or at least would be seriously considering it. To sum it all up, the bike still rides and feels very good (or tight as you say). Continues to corner like it is on a rail. Suspension is just a tad soft in the rear, but the bike would probably feel like new if I put on a new rear shock, new front isolator, fresh fork fluid, and some new tires. | ||
| Djohnk |
Dirt, What kind of oil do you run, and how often do you change it (both the primary and swingarm)? I'm thinking 100K miles means you must be on the right track as far as that goes. | ||
| Dirt |
Well Djohnk, you might be the only one on this forum who will say I'm on the right track. I guess it's all what one is comfortable with. For the first 20k or so I use Mobil 15W50 synthetic. That oil was readily available and not too ridiculously priced, and I had used it in my Softail for several years without issue. Then, for some reason it became very difficult if not impossible to find so I took a chance and started using plain old Walmart SuperTECH 20W50 (non synthetic). Seemed to work just fine in the engine so I started using it in the transmission/primary instead of Formula+. Have never looked back. Engine oil gets changed every 5k miles and transmission/primary every 10K miles. I sometimes chuckle to myself at the oil threads that pop up here from time to time. Some folks are very passionate about which oil they use and I'll not argue that some of the syns are superior oil. But I also believe that you don;t necessarily have to use the best oil out there to obtain high mileage. YMMV. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
You've made me a believer. I'm sick and tired of paying out the ying yang for syn. My next purchase of oil will be Super Tech 20W50. I just bought, yesterday, 5 quarts of Valvoline synthetic 20W50 and it cost me damn near 50 bucks and I felt violated. Not anymore. Thanks for the sanity check. Oil companies suck. | ||
| Yjsrule |
I run the supertech in everything else I own except the Buells, I killed my car engine due to not changing the timing belt at 60k, honestly I thought the interval was 100k. It jumped teeth and took out the valves at 104k, when I pulled the cover it looked very good inside. Still ran great. I run super tech 20/50 in my dirt bikes as well, works good with the clutches. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Can't argue with 100k, but the actual studies I have seen show significant loss of viscosity for non synthetic oil at 3000 miles. Full synthetic holds out longer to 5000, and can withstand a higher temperature without falling apart. So that's pushing it... I would go 3k to 3.5k for non synthetic, or 5k to 5.5k for synthetic. At which point the costs get closer. But like I said, i can't argue with a 100k Uly.... | ||
| Yjsrule |
Where my dad works they send there oil off to be analyzed on every vehicle at every oil change. The mechanic there says the full synth holds up better as far as viscosity for more miles but they are all contaminated with acids at the same rate. I have been changing mine at 4k just like my cars, can't bring myself to go 5k. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I only go 3 to 4 and usually only about 3K. Syn is probably overkill for my change intervals. | ||
| Beached |
Sorry, VIN 5MZDX03N573701149 65000 kilometers, about 40K miles, no problem. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Beached, can you look near the VIN tag and note the build month and year? Thanks! | ||
| Bobbuell1961 |
I would think it would be better to track the build of the engine rather then the bike. There is a 10 digit number on the cases, sorry I don't recall the exact location, I'll look tomorrow if no one locates it, First 2 digits denote engine, second 2 are year, next 3 are the Julian date, the day in the year produced. Ex 002 is Jan 2nd, 364 is Dec 30th. Next 3 are the unit produced that day. This is not the VIN number but another stamped in the case. Hope this helps to ID the offending units, Bob | ||
| Bobbuell1961 |
It Oslo located below the sprocket,. I believe that I was wrong in that the first 3 denote the engine and the last 2 are production for the day. Bob | ||
| Beached |
One Last Time VIN 5MZDX03N573701149 Build Date Mar 07 65000 kilometers, about 40K miles, no problem. Many 500 mile days at +100 degrees as well as some at 40 degrees. From Death Valley to +10000 ft. in Rockys. Regular oil changes at 5000 mile intervals, only Screaming Eagle full Synthetic. Does exactly what it was designed for. Have not found another another make that comes close. | ||
| 1313 |
In talking with Webe yesterday, he's got 60K miles on his '07 Uly. Maybe he'll chime in here with all his pertinent info, 1313 | ||
| Hughlysses |
Webe would be another good data point. I sold him my old 07 ECM yesterday (his original is throwing a "bad ECM" fault code) and he mentioned that's the FIRST significant problem he's had with his bike. | ||
| Sweetfish89 |
I'm at 35k miles with out a crank problem. I have only had a wheel bearing failure and spark plug pop out. | ||
| Hughesatron |
I change my oil every 5k miles with standard oil and filter. no problems with my '06 on 39k miles | ||
| Reepicheep |
Thanks Beached, you are right up next to Florida Lime (sounds appropriate!  ). Except you didn't break yet. Thanks 1313, Beached, and Hughesatron. If you could get VIN's and build dates, our data would be more complete. Thanks! | ||
| Etennuly |
I wasn't paying attention I guess. I didn't know you were collecting info on '06's. My '06 is at 57,000 miles. Since about 18,000 miles I have run non syn Rotella 15-40. I ran HD non syn oils for the first 15,000 or so, then they started charging for the gold in the label on the plastic quart bottles. I went to Mobil 1 20-50 V-twin oil for one change at 15,000. That was coincidentally when my Run/skip problem started. I did not like the engine's more noticeable marble in a blender sound while idling. That is when I went to Rotella which I have in my shop for trucks anyway. I'm just over half way to Dirt's impressive mileage, and can note the same thing about the bike's overall fitness. I just did my fork oil and seals. I have been thinking about the rear shock. At this point the bike runs better and smoother through the gears and the rpm range. It still does not smoke or use but maybe a half of a pint of oil between changes. Next oil change/inspection will include steering head bearings, a little alteration to my spooge hoses, and installing the fuel pump filter,screen,seals that I was going to do when I did the forks. New tires coming up soon. |
