| Author | Message | ||
     Uly_man |
I have had both of these bikes and just done a 1000 miles on the 2010. These are the best bits. The 2010 bike engine in not affected by the rain or damp at any time. It starts without that slow/stop cranking thing. It runs cooler, idles smoother, the oil cooler works as it should, the can has almost no rust on it and the fan makes nothing like the noise the 06 bike did. The clutch is very light but mine may have had a mod done on it. The active can system seems to work now and has a better sound once it gets past 3000 revs. The engine and frame paint. All those other little mods, that have improved the bike so much, of which there are a great many. The heated grips work great and are not fat like the aftermarket ones can be. The lights seem to be brighter and I do not get the 80 mph-ish shimmy even with the hand guards on. I had to take them off on the 06 bike to stop it. The Scorpion tyres are ok but they take time to scrub in and are a bit slow steering for my style of riding. The PR2s were very good on my 06 bike and I will use them again once the Scorps are dead. The bad bits. Mine is a UK spec bike with small headers and a CAT and it feels a bit strangled at low revs, up against my 06 bike, but I will be changing the can. Big headers would be nice but cost to much for my liking. I was finding the use of the clutch to be none to nice to use. It felt odd like it was sticking/dragging. I thought it maybe because the bike was so new but today I removed the clutch cable from the handlebar clip and its now great. It now feels the same as my 06 bike smooth and easy so I do not know what this clip is all about. | ||
| Simond |
I've fitted US Spec headers to my '09 and a Remus pipe. It still spits and farts its way down the road but the mid-range hesitancy is gone. It is still a long way off the smoothness of my '06 Firebolt. I try not to get too hung up on it and enjoy the ride. I'll probably have to get it set up with the Erik Buell Racing kit and some dyno time but to be honest, when I get some time I'd rather jump on it and ride rather than fret over the fuelling.  | ||
| Etennuly |
That clip on the bars is a factory take on the original "Bazootie" made by Crusty. It is there to keep the clutch cable out of the view of the lower part of the gages. Really tall people never had this problem.  I had the same take on my '05 City-X when I bought my '06 Uly. Once the Uly hit my door the City-X sat for three months doing nothing when I decided to sell it. That kind of thing happens all of the time when you get a new vehicle with all of the updated latest greatest stuff on it. Congrats on the new bike!  | ||
| Uly_man |
Simond. I got my 06 Uly to be very good so let me know if you need help. I am in London myself. I have left the cable off the clip and its great now. It is still hard to get it into neutral once the engine is hot though. I have to rev it or cut the engine. Mods I have made that make a direct difference/improvement on the 2010 bike are - 1) Better front and rear pads. These have improved braking. Most notably on the rears. 2) Moving the breathers to the positive side of the air filter. Smoother idle with no sludge on the filter. 3) Adding 5ml of heavy oil to the front forks. Cuts brake dive and improves handling. 4) High with low beam light fix. You can see further. 5) Better grade headlight lamps. you can see more. 6) Air horn. People can hear you. 7) Taken clutch cable off handle bar clip. Stops the inner cable binding. Mods the bike came with - 1) A FST. 2) Piper air filter. Mods I did for me - 1) Tail tidy. Looks better. 2) Old style indicators. I prefer them. 3) Extended width rear brake pedal. Makes it easy to use. 4) Clutch lever spacer/adjustment. Makes it easy to use. | ||
| Zac4mac |
"It is still hard to get it into neutral once the engine is hot though. I have to rev it or cut the engine." What are you running in the primary? I am running Red Line Primary-Chaincase fluid, neutral while stopped is flawless from 1st or 2nd. If she's really hot I might blip the throttle, never cut the engine. I am going to be changing fluids soon and was going to go back to Formula+ after reading Al's talk with Erik on his XBRR. If you are using Formula+, I may have to reconsider. Front end does dive a bit on front brake, but I find it puts me in a more aggressive position. I like it. ++: 4&5, PIAA Ultra Whites X 4. BTW, Bluenose the Uly is an 09 XB12X, electro-mechanically stock except hi-lo mod and breather re-route. Red line: 10W-40 and P/C Fluid. Zack | ||
| Uly_man |
"What are you running in the primary?" I bought the bike used with 2700 miles on it so I do not know. I did not have this problem with my 06 Uly with any oil. It only happens if the engine is hot and if I blip the throttle I can get it in ok. Its no problem most of the time just wondered why is all. Cutting the engine lets it slip to neutral easy and less hassle on parking. I will change the oil soon anyway. Yes I use PIAA lamps as well. Just for a laugh I wired up the can valve. It has taken about 10 miles, for the ECM to learn, but now the throttle feels a little "crisper" in the low rev range and it now sounds a little better as well. It could be said to be subjective but I did this with my 06 bike with the same sort of results. It just feels more "alive" now and a better can, as before, would help as well. | ||
| Kakimoto |
Uly_Man, I hope you can help me on this. My '06 Uly runs erratically below 2000 rpm, it sometimes runs real smooth but usually this hiccupping is the norm. I just have to slip the clutch when riding in heavy traffic. Is this normal ? if it's not, what do you suspect and recommend I do to resolve this ? Could it be poor fuel ? | ||
| Uly_man |
Kakimoto. In your part of the world the bike is going to run VERY hot all the time. Slipping the clutch and rev control in traffic was normal for smooth riding on my 06 bike and that was the UK with nothing like the conditions/heat you have. The breather mod helps as the engine is not trying to burn oil vapour. My opinion has always been the engine cooling and that the oil cooler is not working as it should. On my 06 bike a R/H air scoop and a free flowing can did help but it is sort of the nature of the beast. The switched fan mod might help you the best though. | ||
| Kakimoto |
Uly_man, Thanks for the advise. My Uly is stock standard. Yes it is very hot, esp. now in the midst of arab summer. The dealer informs it could be a fuel grade issue. Will get back to them again though technical advice is lacking, parts and installation are expensive. Guess I just have to save harder and try to get this fixed before milder winter. Thanks again. Regs | ||
| Portero72 |
Kakimoto- In my experience, rough running below 2000 rpm is quite normal. At that engine speed, you are really lugging the motor, and can be unhealthy over long periods. This engine is happiest over 3000 rpm. It is just designed to perform at higher rpms. Solutions to your problem may include a race ECM, which really smooth out throttle response, or the lower xb9 gearing for low speed running. Best of luck, sir. | ||
| Uly_man |
Kakimoto- I got my 06 bike to idle pretty good and close to my 2010 bike but it will never be like a Jap four and thats what I meant by the nature of the beast. |
