| Author | Message | ||
     Jconly |
Hey Guys, So, I've got a pretty large amount of pulsing on my rotor. It's gotten to the point where I'm looking to replace the rotor, because if I understand correctly, the Erik Buell Racing rotor with Erik Buell Racing mounting kit, and some EBC pads will resolve the problem.. So first of all, please correct me if I'm wrong on this.. But if not, which rotor is the one to go with. Any advantage to the slightly more expensive 5mm vs the 6mm? I understand it's lighter, but is there any disadvantage to the 5mm? Thanks for the input. Going this route before upgrading my caliper and MC. I've never been happy with the brakes on my ULY, and am hoping this will alleviate the problem before I drop the big $$. Thanks | ||
| Johnboy777 |
I had the same problem - then used polishing soap to clean the rotor really well. That seemed to work. Now, before I start my ride, I make three quick/hard stops from 60MPH using just the front brake. That works well for me. Now whenever it starts to pulse, I just do the three stop procedure, and it always works for me. I can't tell you why, but for me at least, it works. I also have trhe pads that American Sport Bike sells - I don't recall the brand. I think it may be that there is a build up of crap that takes place over time, IF the front brakes are not used aggressively enough. YMMV | ||
| Johnboy777 |
Here's an interesting read - for what it's worth. http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_braked isk.shtml ... | ||
| Froggy |
Any new rotor and hardware will resolve the problem. Protip: To avoid pulsing in the future, don't hold the front brake when stopped. I personally let off around 10mph then use only rear. Never had an issue since in nearly 100,000 miles with multiple ZTL and ZTL2 bikes. | ||
| Froggy |
Back to your original question, go with whatever rotor you can get the cheapest. The differences between them aren't worth spending for on a street bike. If you frequently ride aggressively or do track days, it may be worth looking into something like the 1190RS rotor, but otherwise stick to anything you can get cheap. | ||
| Jconly |
Thanks guys.. I realize replacing it will solve the problem, but I hafta admit... I think it's CRAZY that I should not hold my front brakes. In years of riding, I've never had this problem with any other motorcycle. There's never been any deposit buildup on any of my rotors, and I've been able to hold the front at a light without problem. Is there really no decent solution to the problem? All these work-arounds are silly. New / better pads won't solve it? I just assumed it was a problem with the stock pads being crummy. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Lyndall Golds: http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/9059.html Zero brake problems for over 50K. My $0.02. | ||
| Froggy |
Pulsing can occur with any pad. I've even seen pulsing on cars due to the same thing. How many of those other bikes that you have ridden have had ZTL brakes? | ||
| Etennuly |
I went with the 6mm and don't forget you must get the installation kit. I doubt holding the front brake will matter with this one. I use the Lyndall Gold pads with it, they are sufficient for street use. | ||
| Schwara |
Johnboy777 - what "polishing soap" do you use? Thanks | ||
| Jconly |
This is the only bike I've ridden with the ZTL. All others have been Nissin & Brembo's off of Italian, Japanese, and Austrian bikes. Never any problems. Not sure how I feel about the Lyndal Golds. Never had any experience with that brand, and have been using EBC's on my race bike for a while now. Really prefer the stronger bite. I'm use to a brake that grabs and grabs hard right away... Etennuly, why do you doubt the 6mm will prevent the buildup from holding? While were on the topic of calipers... has anybody converted to the ZTL2? Which MC are you running this with? Stopping power significantly improved? I'm going to rebuild my Master and Caliper, throw in some new pads, on the new rotor... if this doesn't make me happy it will be upgrade time. | ||
| Etennuly |
I had the pulsing really bad with my original brake rotor. With stock pads I could clean the rotor with brakecleaner and a scotch brite and all was well for a few hundred miles. Then I switched to Lyndall Golds. I cleaned the rotor by sanding it to a light cross hatch and broke it in hard. The pulsing was still there although not nearly as bad. Usually I apply the front brake, then add rear as I slow to a stop, I never had issue with using the front brake to hold position although I would rather use the rear. This new Erik Buell Racing 6mm rotor and kit is the cat's ass. Amazing is my new description of the feel of the front brake. With new Lyndal Gold pads I do see what track day riders are saying about feeling wooden or feeling fade as you get them really heated up. If you are going to get into hard braking you will likely be happier with the EBCs you have been running. This rotor makes the pulse a thing of the past. I can even forget that it did it now. | ||
| Johnboy777 |
""Johnboy777 - what "polishing soap" do you use? Thanks"" P21S Polishing Soap - I originally bought it for the headers, then went to Mother's original something-or-other for the headers. http://www.amazon.com/P21S-Polishing-Soap/dp/B000A LZEF0  | ||
| Rwven |
6mm Erik Buell Racing rotor with installation hardware kit EBC HH pads Lyndal Golds still pulsed for me. New stock rotor only cured problem for a few miles. With the 6mm rotor and the HH pads I have had no pulsing in 20,000 miles. And I often hold the front brake on at stops. | ||
| Svh |
I have the same setup as Rwven above and love it. Way better than stock in every way. You won't be diappointed. | ||
| Xdigitalx |
I have the same setup as well. I waited way too long to do it. I had the rotor replaced once,..but the pulsing came back... I pretty much got used to it riding more cautious and using the rear 80% of the time. I tried cleaning it but my best result was WD40 on the mounting springs, worked for a day. Then I switched to Simple green and same thing (only worked for a day or less) I highly recommend getting the whole kit with 6mm rotor. | ||
| Nobuell |
I have stock pads (2nd set) and original rotor at 32K miles. I have never had pulsing. What has worked for me - In day to day riding, I use the front brakes hard. I normally let go after stopping then use the rear to hold into position. When I replaced the front pads, I cleaned the rotor with scotchbrite pads and brake cleaner. I periodically spray water into the disc connection bolts to assure there is nothing impeding the spring motion. After cleaning, I squeeze the connection with my fingers to assure it moves freely. I believe periodic hard braking is the answer. Hope this helps | ||
| Jconly |
Thanks Nobuell... I wish that were the case for me. Never seemed to solve my problems. I pulled the trigger on the 6mm Erik Buell Racing rotor, the Erik Buell Racing mount kit, and the EBC pads today. Hopefully this makes me a much happier Buell'er | ||
| Svh |
Post up your results. | ||
| Needs_o2 |
Froggy, Any idea when the 1190 rotors might become available? | ||
| Jconly |
Yea, I'll let everyone know how it goes. Thanks for the input! | ||
| Pontlee77 |
From my experience a friend had big pulsing problems, changed to the Erik Buell Racing kit of nut's and bolts, and the differece was from night to day, no pulsing at all, and he really brakes hard on the bike, cheaper than a set of pads, worth a try, from my point of view. | ||
| Arcticktm |
You should be happy. I put on 6mm Erik Buell Racing rotor and EBC HH pads over 3k miles ago and am very happy. Had the Lyn Golds on stock rotor and was NOT a fan, though some here are. Did not resolve my pulsing issues. If you have liked EBC before, stick with it. |
