| Author | Message | ||
     Kevinaye |
So I posted a thread regarding my replacing my 77 connector. I ended up taking my Uly to the local bike shop to test the stator and install the new connection. According to them the stator was good and the bike was charging after the new connection was put in. Without installing the new voltage regulator. Sounds like it was my connection l along........... So I take the Uly for a spin to Vancouver (130km) with no issues. Then make 3 stops. On the 3rd stop it hesitates a bit more than normal before firing up. Mmmmmm........ I then ride another 75km towards home. Make one more stop. This time when I go to start her up I get the clicking like it is out of juice . But then fires up. So I take it back to the shop. It looks like it is charging but only getting just over 13 v. I noticed the positive terminal on the battery is cracked so we order up a new battery. That comes in and I replace the voltage regulator. Charge the battery to 12.9v band fire up the bike, it still shows that it is charging. So then I ride it for 240km. It's feeling great, just cruising along. Stop for gas. And she won't start. Looks like I have lots of juice bright lights etc. But still need a jump. Ride another 70km to the nearest harley dealer. They tell me my stator is toast. And the bike is not charging at all. I ask if that means my new VR is now fried. They reckon not, but unplug both connections, just in case. They were good enough to charge up my battery, at least partially, to get me back on the road. Of course I only make it another 30km before everything fails and the bike dies at the side of the road. I pop the cover and reconnect the VR. I manage to push the bike onto a side road, up a small hill and get it bump started. As long as I keep moving it seems ok. Unfortunately another 10km along the road there is a major accident and traffic is at a standstill. I get to the front but I am forced to shut her down. 4 bikers on there way to a vintage bike meet stop to help me out. Not only giving me a boost,but running their car( one guy was trailering his ride) for a good 20mins to charge me up! Nice guys. She fires up no problem and I ride another 90km no issues. So now I am approx 450km from home and no idea what is going on. I am not convinced the Harley guys got are on the ball, as my main issues happened after they disconnected the VR. They also told me that I should be ok if I can charge my battery overnight . I will be signing up for roadside assistance in the morning ...... Anybody have some thoughts on this issue? Doesnt a stator either charge,or not charge? So I make it 30km clicks dwon the road | ||
| Andymnelson |
the stator tests are very simple: The stator tests are: 1) Insert one ohmmeter lead into a stator socket. Attach the other lead to a suitable ground. Test for continuity with ohmmeter set on the RX1 scale. A good stator will show no continuity (∞ ohms) across all stator sockets and ground. Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which must be replaced. 2) Check resistance across stator sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 3-1. Test for resistance with ohmmeter set on the RX1 scale. Resistance across the stator sockets should be 0.1- 0.3 ohms. If the resistance is lower, the stator is damaged and must be replaced. NOTE Verify that meter reads 0 ohms when probes are shorted together. If not, subtract lowest value to resistance value of stator. 3) AC Output Check Connect an AC voltmeter across stator sockets 1-2. Run the engine at 2000 RPM. The AC output should be 32-40 volts AC. (approximately 16-20 volts per 1000 RPM). Repeat test across stator sockets 2-3 and 1-3. 2. Compare test results to specifications. If the output is below specifications, charging prob- lem could be a faulty rotor or stator. start there. The stator has 3 phases, and quite typically only 1 fails giving you partial charging. | ||
| Metaldude |
Did the guys heading to the Antique Motorcycle show happen to be from Minneapolis? I know a group from my club that were heading up that way. A couple of the nicest guys you'd ever meet. As Andy found out, a stator can go partially bad. So unless it passes all those tests, you could have a situation where it only partially charges the battery, and based on how the engine is being ridden at the time (stop and go, slow through the city, vs super slab) you could have a variable range of results. | ||
| Kevinaye |
Well I made it home, with help from friends following me in their car, and charging my battery when the bike would run low on charge. It really took the freewheelin', independant, adventure biker feel out of the ride, but at least it got me home.  Thanks Andy, for the instructions for the tests. I'll give them a try now I am back. The guys that helped me out were from Prince George, BC, Canada. I doesn't seem to matter were I ride, bikers are always willing to help out. Another one of the reasons I love to ride. So, if the tests show that my stator is faulty, am I likely to need a new rotor too? The Harley shop tells me they are 2 different parts. I don't want to pull anything apart yet, as I need the bike to get to the dealer which is a 2 hr drive away. Also, do I need any special tools to do the job? I have read I need a bar in between the cogs....do I need a new gasket for the primary cover? Cheers. | ||
| Kevinaye |
Tried to do the tests on the stator. Turns out the connection to the voltage regulator had partially melted. I assume I need a new Voltage regulator now as the plug is burnt out. Anybody else had a connection burn out? I'll try to take a shot of it. It's pretty nasty, I am surprised it got me home. | ||
| Andymnelson |
never heard of that happening before  | ||
| Ratbuell |
You have had the dreaded 77 connector fail. 77 in blue, 46 (the stator connector) in red:  Here's what I got at Home Depot (a construction supply store):  And here they are installed, I took them out of the sleeve they were sold in. After the pic, I slid the heatshrink tubing over them  But no...we've never seen this before.  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Oh, and if your stator is bad, you probably do NOT need a rotor. The rotor is just a large bowl with magnets in it, that create the field as it spins around the stator. Unless you have a magnet that came off... And your VR may be OK as well. I rode my bike probably 65-70 miles after I saw first sign of failure (Kuryakyn voltmeter). Fixed it next AM, haven't had a VR issue at all. | ||
| Kevinaye |
I don't think I explained myself correctly.... I have switched out the 77 connector for the deustch connector. It's the connection from the stator to the VR that is fried. I have tried to upload some pictures but they are too big apparently | ||
| Andymnelson |
huh, I actually haven't heard of that  did you test the stator still? I wonder if it's putting out too high of voltage? if it is good, I have an extra stator side connector you can have. I'm sure someone has a bad VR they can sacrifice the connector from. The connectors disassemble very easily. | ||
| Kevinaye |
I am pretty sure the stator is done. I did the tests... 1) The reading goes up and down but settles on 0. 2)I think it shows less than 0.1 then goes to 0. I think I have the multi meter set to the correct scale. 3) 2000rpm looks like I am getting 20v. Does a new stator come with a plug? | ||
| Andymnelson |
yes it does...but only the stator side. You may be able to purchase the VR side on it's own. | ||
| Ratbuell |
....or use a Home Depot remedy.... | ||
| Kevinaye |
Finally got a coupla shots of the melted stator plug, bit of a mess.   | ||
| Hughlysses |
I think it's safe to say you let the smoke out of that one. |
