| Author | Message | ||
     Svh |
For those that have regreased their bearings, what type of grease did you use? My bearings I thought were dead but they seem like they still have life in them after further inspection. There was a shipping mishap and no word on the replacement bearings that I ordered from American Sport Bike and I am tired of watching it sit on the stand now that the weather is nice plus Homecoming is near! Thanks | ||
| Chrisrogers3 |
Just replace them, its easier. The wheel bearings can be had at Oshkosh Bearing and tool (Good quality ones). I have started to use them for my bearings and I have yet to have any issues with any of them. They are quite a bit cheaper as well. Besides not to take away from American Sport Bike, but why didnt you pick them up from Appleton HD? | ||
| Xbimmer |
The grease in my black KBC's looks like white lithium: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142838/630903.html?1304860399 I regreased the original orange NTN's for 30K with this:  It's good stuff, but when I grease the KBC's next tire change I'll stick with what's in there now, they've done really well in 20k. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Replacing is not necessarily a smart thing to do when greasing is so quick, easy and much less expensive. Besides, replacing bearings has a tendency to loosen the bearing hole each removal where eventually the bearing will slop around in the hole. | ||
| Svh |
Chris- last time I was in Appleton HD to order a part the guy was less than happy to be ordering a Buell part. Easier with my work schedule as of late as well to order them up. I am thinking of canceling my order and either using the Oshkosh Bearing, that Yooper suggested as well, or doing the 2010 upgrade because I plan on having this bike a long time. | ||
| Chrisrogers3 |
Well if you are going to keep the bike then I would highly suggest the 2010 wheel. I have been debating on that as well. Its either powdercoat the bike or get the wheel. I am actually quite surprised that they didn't accommodate you at Appleton HD, if it was as bad as you say, you should talk to Terry. Like I said though, all the wheel bearings and swingarm bearings can be had at OBT and they are ALWAYS in stock for about 8 bucks each if I remember correctly. Also the swingarm bearings are available in stock at Team Winnebagoland as well. | ||
| Chrisrogers3 |
Hey Craig- Did you ever get that referral bonus from Dillon Brothers? In response to your post- The thing that I have found, by the time people decide they want to grease their bearings, it is too late and the damage has already been done. You bring up a valid argument about the hole tolerances but if done properly that shouldnt be an issue unless you're replacing them on a regular basis. Am I correct with that mindset? | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Chris, No, I didn't get a referral bonus. Dan said he'd give me a t-shirt if I could show him who it was that bought the bike and I couldn't remember who it was that bought the ST. Now I know. Anyways, I need another t-shirt like I need a hole in the head but I'm now going to hold him to that promise. Thanks. As for the whether you are correct with your mindset about the bearings. Probably as correct as me. I just hate changing out things when I can maintain them. Mine probably do need changing. When I did the fork seal and fork oil change last week I checked the front bearings and they turned slicker than snot and I popped the seals anyway and greased them. My rear bearings turn very hard but then for the most part they always have. I'm going to take off that back wheel and clean out the grease from both bearings and regrease. I've never cleaned the grease out of them, only added. I'm thinking that the spacer tube is probably too long and is putting force on the bearings inner race. Never had a failure though. The front wheel spacer, which can be seen, seems like it is loose between the two bearings. I am certain that is not the case on the rear wheel but exactly the opposite and too tight between the two bearings. | ||
| Chrisrogers3 |
Yeah I have wondered that as well. The first time I pulled the bearings and couldnt get my removal tool in there to get the rear bearings out I suspected that to be an issue, but there have been threads addressing that on here and people have claimed it has nothing to do with it. I dont have an engineering background or case studies to counter that argument though so I have left my spacer the full size but the next time I have to replace a damn bearing I am doing to take a 32nd off that spacer. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
On my Harley, it has tapered roller bearings and you actually have to shim behind the bearing to get the proper spacing. You have to wonder who measures the space the spacer occupies to get the proper length. I noticed on my bike that the front wheel spacer has a number stamped on it. Is that number the spacer length and can different lengths be bought? | ||
| Snub13 |
Here's a really dumb question (or maybe two or three...) I purchased new bearings from American Sport Bike. They don't look like they have any grease in them....Do they? Do I have to pack them? Do you guys remove the seals on both sides of the bearing or just one side? Just removed the tire over the weekend and both bearings are hard to turn. They look ok otherwise, the seal is intact and no rust. If you can't get the removal tool in place....how do you get the bearings out? E-Glider; I take it from your comment that you repack the bearings while in the wheel....is that correct? Sorry if any of this (or all of it!) is old news, I just jumped on the thread band wagon Tim | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
First off, I don't see any dumb questions being asked. Those bearings should have grease in them. When I grease my bearings, I just remove the outer seal of each bearing while still in the wheel and then add grease and then finger push the seal back into place. Then I brush Permatex anti-seize all over the outside of the bearing to water and dustproof it. I also coat the axle liberally with anti-seize. If you clean the old grease out, just make sure you don't spin the bearing with compressed air as that will gall the bearing, or in other words ruin it. | ||
| Snub13 |
Thanks, EG. I've packed car wheel bearings (grease in palm of hand method). Not hard just messy | ||
| Blasterd |
Upon removing my rear wheel for a new tire I discovered mine are notchy.... While we are on the subject does anyone now where I can get some replacement rear bearings real fast? I usually order from American Sport Bike but I need to have them back in by tomorrow and shipping from Cali to FL would take too long. | ||
| Griffmeister |
For those people thinking of messing with the spacer, you better read the other bearing threads here. One bearing goes up against a shoulder, then the spacer, then the opposite bearing goes tight against the spacer. The axle is then torqued to hold everything tight. If you over tighten the axle, this crushes the spacer which would be the same as shortening it. This can put stress on the bearings causing them to fail. | ||
| Whisperstealth |
Blasterd, Check you local / nearest bearing supply store/house. Also check with ATV dealers, many atv's use the same bearings as the rear. Ask for: 6006-2RS - 30 x 55 x 13 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/611202.html http://www.yellowpages.com/lake-city-fl/machinery- new-used http://www.yellowpages.com/lake-city-fl/mip/horizo n-industrial-division-miller-bearings-6621482?lid= 6621482 | ||
| Blasterd |
Thanks Whisperstealth, I'll run by today and see if I can find a set. Is the service manual correct in the install procedure? My shop guy has never installed a set of bearings on a Buell so I was going to leave the manual with him. | ||
| Xbimmer |
My shop guy has never installed a set of bearings on a Buell so I was going to leave the manual with him. Uh-oh... | ||
| Andymnelson |
lol, agreed.
Also agreed. The manual is correct, and it is IMPERATIVE that it is followed properly! - install rotor side bearing, seat it up to the shoulder. - install spacer. - install pulley side bearing, lightly seating it up against the spacer. (it DOES NOT fully seat to the shoulder!!) - follow all torque specs carefully. It truly is a simple install procedure, but too many mechanics unfamiliar with the Buells like to muck it all up. | ||
| Blasterd |
Checked around town today, Napa had 1 bearing and Horizon had 3 but they were 49.00 each! Nobody else had them in stock. They didn' feel that bad so I think I'll add some grease and re-install the wheel and get the harbor freight installer and order the bearings from Al and do them myself. | ||
| Blasterd |
Oh yeah, what do I use a dentalpick and that Lucas grease further up the thread? OR is there something better to add? | ||
| Xbimmer |
You have the KBC black seal bearings? I plan on using white lithium grease next time for mine. The original NTN's had minimal wimpy-looking stuff in them, I used Lucas in them. 50k on those. The steering head set above also had almost no grease in them and it looked like something for a fishing reel, so I "waterproofed" them with lots of Lucas since my originals had rusted severely. My dental pick works fine:  For the KBC's I pried the outside edge of the seal, against the outer race. | ||
| Blasterd |
You have one of thise fancy dental pics, i just have the regular wood ones. Maybe toothpick was a better term. I have the black KBC bearings with 17,000 miles on them. | ||
| Jphish |
You can also use small jewlers screw driver - 2 works better - pop the seal (gently - no bendy) with one and slide the other in to "lift" seal. | ||
| Xbimmer |
You can also use small jewlers screw driver - 2 works better - pop the seal (gently - no bendy) with one and slide the other in to "lift" seal. +1. My fancy dental pick came from CVS Pharmacy with two picks and a lighted dental mirror for a few bucks. I use the flat for the seals, the pointy one for cleaning grooves in things, and the mirror for checking that the radiator hose in my wife's car isn't leaking again underneath... I have the black KBC bearings with 17,000 miles on them. Reference my thread and my KBC's at 20k: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/630903.html?1304860399 Far better than the original NTN's. | ||
| Eulysses |
You guys "pick" on the shaft seal edge or the outer edge of the seal? Euly | ||
| Hughlysses |
You have to pick on the shaft seal side. I don't think you could get anything under the outer edge. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Actually the outer edge I find easier. | ||
| Snub13 |
Ok.... I popped off the orange seals and the sprocket side looked fine but the bearing would not turn at all! The rotor side had rust uh...I'll call them shadows on a few of the bearings and I couldn't get that side to turn either....Great! So, I already have a set of American Sport Bike black seal bearings and Iv'e read how to do the heat gun method of removal / install etc. My new question is...... The book (and Badweb) says to start with the brake side with the letters (on the bearing) out. But, my bearings have letters on both sides. Now what? | ||
| Etennuly |
But, my bearings have letters on both sides. Now what? It won't matter which side is in or out with those. I use automotive hi temp wheel bearing grease from Valvoline. The heat gun method regardless of what puller is a good idea for the sake of the bearing race fit in the aluminum rim. If that bearing is showing any rust it is junk. Time for a change. You will be amazed at how much water the hub will have in it. The water works it's way into the grease over time and contaminates and thins it out, and the rust will add grit to the bearing's rolling surfaces. It is not unusual for the bearings in the rear wheel to feel tight or turn hard. When they feel notchy or turn very hard or show rust inside the seal it is time to change them. You can drill weep holes for ventilation to help keep water out. I filled my hub completely with marine grease to displace any water. I did the seal remove repack and wipe with anti-sieze on mine. The hub had nearly 3 ounces of water in it. The rotor side bearing failed at around 25,000 miles. I now have 30,000 miles on the replacement bearings with the hub filled with grease. They seem to be doing fine thus far. That spacer is what keeps the ball bearings centered in the race grooves when all is torqued correctly. It would seem that if the spacer was shortened it would put a lot of side load on the inside of the race's ball tracks. On a tapered flat roller bearing it would not be so critical. I would think if the bearing is showing damage from the spacer being too long, the bearings were probably not installed in the wheel properly. |
