G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile


Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through June 10, 2011 » Bearing question « Previous Next »

  Thread Last Poster Posts Pages Last Post
Archive through May 25, 2011Etennuly30 05-25-11  10:28 pm
         

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Blasterd
Posted on Wednesday, May 25, 2011 - 10:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I did mine last week I noticed the spacer was deformed on both ends. As far as I know I am the only one that has removed the rear wheel and I know I did it right. The bike has been in for service a couple of times once for the muffler straps so it is possible that they could have removed the rear wheel, if not the factory has some splainin to do.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Etennuly
Posted on Wednesday, May 25, 2011 - 11:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That is part of the point of torquing the axle then loosen it a couple of turns then re torquing it. That allows for the spacer to line up with both bearing inner races without being pinched in a slightly misaligned position that would cause it to walk or wobble between the races. That would cause the ends to appear to be distorted or swelled.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Blasterd
Posted on Wednesday, May 25, 2011 - 11:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

so it's likely not deformed? I always do the tighten and retighten sequence when I reinstall the wheel. My bearings looked fine but they sure hard to turn. BTW, I have orange seal bearings on the front and black on the rear, I guess I need to check the front soon.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Etennuly
Posted on Thursday, May 26, 2011 - 12:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have you got a picture of it?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Blasterd
Posted on Thursday, May 26, 2011 - 07:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

no picture but it appeared the spacer was not round anymore. You could follow it around the edge of the bearing and in the same spot on both ends it went outward a little.
I hope that makes some kind of sense.
I'm going to order a set of bearings real soon after I get a blind bearing puller and just replace it all.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Etennuly
Posted on Thursday, May 26, 2011 - 10:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah, if you have deformity that you can see and feel changing the spacer is a real good idea.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Andymnelson
Posted on Thursday, May 26, 2011 - 11:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

you really *ought* to replace the spacer when replacing bearings anyway. It's pretty difficult to remove the bearings without gouging up the spacer, and it is likely that he spacer already has some deformity to it anyway. The spacer is pretty cheap (like $12), and IMO since it's a crucial part of the bearing system on our bikes ought to be replaced.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Blasterd
Posted on Thursday, May 26, 2011 - 11:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I meant to say I was going to order a set of rear bearings AND a spacer as soon as I can afford it.
Thanks!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Electraglider_1997
Posted on Friday, May 27, 2011 - 10:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blasterd,
I just wrote how I made my bearings easy to turn. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/634537.html?1306428942

I firmly believe that a buildup of ground micro-grit inside the caged bearing sort of locks them up to finger turning. Sure the bike will make them turn but when you check them with your fingers they just take more torque than your fingers can exert. Before I put my wheel back on yesterday morning, the bearings felt like new.

I used diesel fuel and a paint brush to dab and wash away all the old funky micro-gritty grease. Probably any good solvent would work, maybe brake cleaner. I used my heat gun to boil off all the solvent. The diesel actually boiled out of there. Not red hot, just hot enough to get the bearings dry of solvent. Have the wheel standing on it's tire when you heat the solvent so the gritty dirty solvent can boil and run out easier. You don't want that filth left in there when the solvent is all dried out of the bearing. And don't get them spinning with compressed air or the pressure behind those brake cleaner aerosol cans or you'll gall the bearing.

Now it's time to work grease into them as best you can. I used a plastic peanut butter jar with it's lid on to pressure the grease back into the bearing. The flat lid against the bearing, push hard and twist to get that grease to squeeze into the caged balls. Some say don't use a lot of grease but I use as much as possible and mine have lasted with zero failures. Finally I use the seal to squeeze the grease into every nook and cranny so that bearing isn't possibly going to spin metal to metal when the wheel is back on.

Then after that seal is fully seated I brush anti-seize over the entire outside bearing and seal to make a good secondary water and dust seal. That stuff works great at keeping the outside of your bearing from ever rusting. Dirt may stick to that stuff but it never gets to the bearing and that is what counts. To many folks on BadWeb have taken pictures of their rusty failed bearings. My bearings have zero rust on outside or inside and that is because of the coating of Permatex anti-seize. Buell didn't engineer a dust seal until 2010 model so the rest of us had to do it our own way. If I had the 2010 wheel I'd probably put never-sieze on the bearings before installing the dust seal, just like slathering it on the axle to keep the axle from corroding. That stuff just works.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Blasterd
Posted on Friday, May 27, 2011 - 10:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

excellent tip Craig! When I get the new bearings I'll rub some anti-seize on both sides, I put it on the outside already everytime I change the tire out.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Snub13
Posted on Wednesday, June 01, 2011 - 11:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've been kinda busy so I haven't done much with the rear wheel.

Yesterday I removed the bearings using the heat / blind bearing remover method. The sprocket side turned nice and easy once out of the wheel. The rotor side would not turn at all! Good thing I was replacing them, I guess.

I'm going to try to put the new bearings (and new spacer) in today. I was planning on freezing the bearings and heating the wheel then using a piece of all-thread to pull the bearings in......does that sound reasonable?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Snub13
Posted on Wednesday, June 01, 2011 - 11:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh, and to my surprise, the hub was completely dry and had no goo or residue.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Uly_man
Posted on Wednesday, June 01, 2011 - 12:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A bit of a problem this one.

I called NASA, JPL, MIT and even dug up Isambard Kingdom Brunel (nice guy even with the weird hat) for advise.

No joy though. It seems it is beyond there collective expertise. They suggested I went away and did something nasty, with a hot dog, that I am not sure is either legal or even possible. Dam them thar Buell bearings.
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and custodians may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration