| Author | Message | ||
     Electraglider_1997 |
How many have bought the 2010 wheel and what are your thoughts about it pro and con? | ||
| Hughlysses |
I did- it's the bomb. No con thoughts at all. My guess is it does something like doubling or tripling the load capacity of the rear bearings, such they are operated under much less stress and will last much longer and be much less prone to failure caused by other minor issues (contamination, minor misalignment, etc.) compared to the 2009 and earlier wheels. BTW- Erik Buell Racing sells the axle, bearings, seals, and spacer for the 2010 wheel, although apparently not the wheels themselves. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I'm probably going to get one this spring. How is the availability of the actual wheel? | ||
| Thesmaz |
I did. had to..the original wheel bearing race had become too big and the bearings wouldnt seat proper. They would click REALLY loudly and only last about 2K miles! Dont know when they got screwed up but I dont have to worry about it now. | ||
| Gamdh |
I've about 12K on the '10 rear wheel on the '06 Uly. +1 to what Hugh said worth every penny just for the piece of mind | ||
| Paralegalpete |
Warranty paid for mine, plus swing arm and brake rotor | ||
| Bluesboy99 |
I got mine done under warranty, and only have 100 Km so far. My only thought so far is the piece of mind. It did take about a month to get the parts. | ||
| Tootal |
I had no issues from the stock wheels but got the 010 wheel anyway. Just having the outer seal added was a huge improvement. The bearings are larger than my Road Glide and there's three of them!! The Road Glide doesn't have any issues after 80,000 miles and it has over 100 ft.lbs. of torque! I doubt a Uly could hurt the new set up. | ||
| Uly_man |
I can understand the fear that people have had, it worried me for a while, with wheel bearing issues and if a 2010 wheel helps sort this for you then thats fair enough. If your hubs dead then get one. The thing is if the bearings are over torqued and/or the spacer is crushed, which cases the advanced bearing wear, then you will get the same result no matter how many bearings you have in the hub. It may help slow it down a bit I guess. The front end of all the XBs, wheel/steering bearings, can not deal with any wear AT ALL for best results and can only be checked off the bike. The rear end, swing arm aside, is not a big problem as long as you can not feel wear with the wheel off the ground. The thing some people do no understand is that XBs, even the Uly, rides the way it does because of design. A short wheel base, tall steering angle and other things or even the wrong tire/tyre type can make for a big problem. If anything I would fit steel wheel spacers rather than a 2010 wheel. It would up the un-sprung weight though. On the other hand I like many others have no problem with the normal set up. The chat, on the Net, over this issue has put the scare into some. I am telling the World now that this is rubbish. There are some build and design issues with the XB series Buells but this is not one of them. Most of it is because people have been treating the bike like a normal one. But then again we did not get to the Moon either? (Message edited by uly_man on February 20, 2011) | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
When I removed the wheel the other day to get my rear tire changed I also popped the seals to add some grease. I have not had a bearing failure and have 30,000 miles on my bike BUT my rear bearings are very stiff to turn. They turn but not easily. I turned them with a rubberized screw driver handle. The anti-seize keeps them very waterproof and there isn't a spot of rust on these bearings when the anti-seize is taken off. The only reasons I'll go for the 2010 wheels is for better gas mileage since I'm sure the bearings will turn way more easily. Plus I'm convinced it is a much better designed setup than the original wheel (duh). Actually, it seems that since all the 2010 bearings are larger that 2 bearings would have sufficed. I've gotten by with 2 smaller bearings for 30,000 miles and it goes to figure that 2 larger bearings with the added seals would have been just dandy but with 3 the more the merrier I guess. Now, what is the cost of this entire 2010 setup including the axle, bearings and outer seals?? | ||
| Nobuell |
Last spring the rear wheel of my 08XT failed catastrophically while doing 80 on the express way. Destroyed the wheel and swing-arm. I had checked the bearings 2K miles before, during a tire change. The bike was never pressure washed and there were no water crossings. I never found any moisture in the hub and always tightened the axle to the light side of specification. There were no indications that I noticed before failure. The good new was HD replaced with a 2010 wheel and new swing arm within a week of the failure under warranty. HD jumped right on it. Worked out well for me. | ||
| Teeps |
I came into some unexpected cash; so I bought one, from Al @ American Sport Bike, because I could. I commissioned Al's service to install the bearings, spacer and seals. It is my belief that the installation of said parts is critical, and unforgiving. It's a wheel, it does what a wheel is supposed to do. Connects the tire, brakes, and final drive to the motorcycle. (Message edited by teeps on February 21, 2011) | ||
| Hughlysses |
Now, what is the cost of this entire 2010 setup including the axle, bearings and outer seals?? Prior to the Buell closure, it was available as a kit for around $350. Now you have to buy the parts separately, but the price is probably the same. I'd guess you can still get one, but you may have to wait a while given the way things have been going since the closure. | ||
| Dirt |
Egliger, I'm a little shocked you would even think of buying a new 2010 wheel. You have been rather adamant that popping the seals and adding grease is all that is required. I remember one of your posts where you stated the only time you would buy a 2010 wheel is if it was attached to a new bike. If your bearings are stiff, why not just replace them? You seem to have had good success so far. Why not stay the course? I don't doubt the 2010 wheel is a better design, but I can't see it delivering an increase in gas mileage. | ||
| Nvr2old |
When weighing the loss of a day or two when on a trip plus the cost if you can find a dealer to install spare bearings against the cost of the wheel from American Sport Bike, the 2010 wheel doesn't seem so expensive. If you consider the possibility of a catastrophic failure, the 2010 wheel is downright cheap. Anyway, that was my logic for buying it. | ||
| Yjsrule |
I have a 2010 wheel I'm going to put on when I put a new tire on. I ordered it after the bearings went out 450 miles from the house on the first day of a week long trip, on a Saturday of course. Luckily I had spares and Wheeler's down in Robbinsville, NC was around to help out. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Dirt, Haven't bought it at this time so don't call me a hypocrite quite yet. Thing is, I'm not the type to spend money on things until I've done my due diligence. I have little doubt that I can nurse my 06' wheel and bearings on forever and may end up TRYing to do just that. Every once in awhile though I like treating myself to something new and improved. I have no doubt that the 2010 wheel is better but it was never a free upgrade. I'm kind of waiting to build up some Harley Platinum card award points to offset the cost of the wheel if I really end up ordering one. That, along with my HD/Buell dealer's 10% discount should help out quite a bit. One thing I'd like to pass along is that I slather a whole lot of anti-seize on the axle and inside the bearing hole each time I put things back together. Couple that with a good amount of anti-seize brushed onto the outside area of the bearings and I have had zero water intrusion. I think I probably should clean out all the old grease in my bearings though and then they'd probably turn more easily. Others here have recommended that. I've always just added new on top of old and the grease this last look was as black as tar. Will do that when it gets warmer out. | ||
| Balloyd66 |
Put on the 2010 wheel last spring before my journey to HC 2010. A beefier setup for a beefier me, and I'm just paranoid I guess. | ||
| Ourdee |
If you are going to upgrade the wheel, See if the 1190RS wheels will fit. My guess is that they were going to be the new XB wheels, or an option. What are they going for? | ||
| Hughlysses |
Info on the 1190RS wheels from the article at www.motorcycle.com:
I think one of those will set you back a wee bit more than $350.  | ||
| Court |
>>>I think one of those will set you back a wee bit more than $350. Anyone have any idea what magnesium wheels cost? I've not a clue? I do know what Marchisini's go for:
And . . . I wouldn't be surprised to see this wheel, with MUCH more engineering, perhaps approach $5,000. We'll see. | ||
| Hughlysses |
In case you're wondering about ablation casting, here's a paper on the subject. Pretty simple and very cool in concept: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=1&ved =0CBYQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.scientific.net%2FM SF.618-619.591.pdf&rct=j&q=ablation%20casting&ei=l BhjTdfsI4K78gbAotyiDA&usg=AFQjCNH8q83VHsKkclg4ua05 m52ZdMP-Yg&sig2=UAuxG05WDXdwROd_jCFjQA&cad=rja (Message edited by Hughlysses on February 21, 2011) | ||
| Uly_man |
Eglider. If the grease is not clean then it needs changing. Maybe just add more grease up to 20k and then change them out. I still hold by that the original wheel is fine and that the damage is caused by the alloy spacer being, and it only would need to be very small, crushed. This is just engineering logic. Any bearing of this type will start to wear from day one if it has any lateral offset at all between the inner and outer rings. Which is what a crushed spacer will do. The fact is, but just my opinion, that the wheel/spacer/bearings setup on a XB needs to be near perfect. A case in point and to Eglider. I found no wear in my rear bearings (15k miles, red OEM seals and clean grease) after taking them out but they did not run as free as they should have in the hub. This is because my spacer is very, very slightly crushed. Once the bearings are seated in the hub, outer rings, the inner rings rely on the spacer for there position. Another case in point. HD state a two part torque set up for new wheel spacers. That is normal for alloy because of the nature of the material. From my readings of the level of build/QA systems of HD/Buell it is of no wonder to me that this has been a problem. People are using "old school" thinking on this issue. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Might as well change out the engine to nuclear when I get those ablation cast magnesium wheels. | ||
| Bikesquatch |
I just ordered the wheel, I have had 2 failures so far in 6k miles. Even though the bike is still under warranty I need reliability. Plus with the short riding season here in AK I don't want to be without the Uly in the summer. I am really hoping that this fixes the rear bearing issues. The last time it failed I was over 100 miles from home in the middle of nowhere. | ||
| Ulykan |
100 miles from home in the middle of nowhere. In Alaska you can be 10 miles from home and be in the middle of nowhere.  | ||
| Bikesquatch |
Yup, No cell service and no help. Had to nurse it on a failed bearing for 30 miles. I was worried the rear wheel was going to fall off. Broke the belt the next ride after it was repaired due to the rubbing. | ||
| Growl |
Maybe the alloy spacer ought be replaced with a steel spacer | ||
| Hughlysses |
At least one Badwebber has done that, but I don't know if he had any subsequent bearing problems or not. | ||
| Road_kill |
on my '08 Uly: Rear bearing failure #1 @ 5k miles due to mfg problem. Spacer was offset; the wheel ground a very small notch in the spacer; FOD the bearing (pulley side). Replaced under warranty. Rear bearing failure #2 20k miles later due to water intrusion. I noticed a small amount of rust colored goo near bearing seal on rotor side during fuel stop. No problem since I had a '10 wheel setup at home waiting to go. Rear bearing failure #3 5k miles later. I was 500 miles into a 1500 mile trip just after xmas. Stopped for gas in Slidell, LA and did a quick walk-around before takeoff. Noticed a spot of grease on the recently cleaned rim and investigated further. Found rotor side bearing dust seal floating freely on swingarm. Yep, I could also see the pretty little balls between bearing races - not good. Of course none of the HD/Buell dealers in a 200-mile radius could help 'cause they did not have parts and HD was closed for the holidays. So, I rented a box van and returned home in a less-than-festive mood. 55 DAYS LATER (18 Feb) I am back on the road again. I believe the failure was due to a slightly crushed wheel spacer that induced a significant side load on the bearing. Nearly all of the cage was missing and I counted seven balls left (not sure how many should be there). The HD/Buell dealer that sold me the '10 wheel kit replaced the entire wheel plus bearings since they destroyed both during tear-down (and broke a Buell bearing tool). So, in 30k miles I've gone through three rear bearings on two different set-ups. After some serious reflection on the reliability of this bike, I choose to stick with it. The '10 wheel bearing setup is a fine design - overkill if anything. I have reduced the axle torque 10% from min. spec level in an effort to keep the (wimpy) spacer from deforming. You can be sure that I always glance at my rear wheel bearings at fuel stops. I also plan to purchase a set of new ('10) bearings, seals, and spacer to have on hand should I need a care package sent while on the road. Note: I am old school and still prefer Timken tapered roller bearings and steel spacers - but I'm just old and in the way ... besides, nobody cares if the the old stuff could easily be maintained and lasted 55k+ miles. The new sealed, maintenance-free (?), low weight, sexy new ball bearings designs are here to stay. Ok, I'll get off my soap box now  |
