| Author | Message | ||
     Pkforbes87 |
Just wanna make sure im thinking about this the right way before I start spending money on components and rewiring things.. Assuming that worst case scenario, each ballast can pull 40 amps during startup, that means that the TDR would need to handle 80 amps, and the normal relay needs to handle 40? I guess I could settle for a TDR that will only handle 40, but would fry it the first time I let that relay kick on with the high beams switched on.  | ||
| Ronmold |
Are you running 300W HID's? Where are you getting the 40A figure from? Maybe 10A for 10 to 20 sec. for 35W HID's. I haven't found a good reason for time-delaying the HIDs, no failures yet on 4 bikes I've done using the normal start-up: on, off w/crank then on after starting. I do like installing a latch-off relay that keeps the HIDs off if you turn on the key with the H/L switch in the H position (your H ind still glows blue to remind you). Great for doing maintenance and when you flip to L lights work normal.  | ||
| Zac4mac |
I have been running a pair of 35W HIDs on my 1125R, Loretta, since Summer 2008 - Lo beams only. Wired direct, I wait for the ECM to initialize and start, never had a misfire yet. Direct swap is as easy as it gets. Zack | ||
| Reepicheep |
My first HID kit absolutely needed the delay. When you hit the starter, the light would drop out, and sometimes not come back, or come back with some sort of really bad sounding buzz. My DDM low power HID kit did not need the delay. Bounced fine after I hit the starter. I just wired it into the low beam connection, it was insanely easy. I left the high beam filiment so I can flash to pass and have a simple backup if the HID goes south at 2 am somewhere in the middle of nowhere. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Can't remember where I read the 40 amp figure. Somewhere online (not reliable) I've tried finding specific specs for these lights from the DDM website, but it looks like they no longer carry them. 10A per light at startup sounds a lot more reasonable. I got the 55w kit, so figured they should pull about 5amps each, but I'm assuming that's during normal operation and that number will be higher during startup. I'm definitely running a TDR, whether it's necessary or not. I'm OCD about things like this and if I use normal relays and it works flawlessly, the possibility of premature ballast failure will still bother me. It's worth my peace of mind to use a TDR. | ||
| Andymnelson |
The good reasons are a couple: 1) (my main reason for using a TD relay) to reduce overall electrical system draw before the bike is charging. THis is better for your enter electrical system: battery, wiring, starter, etc. 2) to prevent the HIDs from firing, then shutting off and re-firing right away. This is hard on the bulbs. Is regards to current draw: If you ordered the DDMTuning kit, they state right on their site that their kits are all capped at 5 amp draw at start up (so 10 amp total if you have 2 and they both fire up at the same time). As far as the current draw one fired, it's a simple math equation: Amps=Watts/Voltage Using 14.4 volts, you have 3.82 amps per ballast. If your charging system is not running at peak and let's say you have 12.5 volts, you would be pulling 4.4 amps per ballast. Your original drawing looks fine, other than I would consider using the stock high beam headlight feed to trigger the high beam relay. | ||
| Ronmold |
TD relay is a good idea, especially with 55W units, why make the starter work with less juice! It just hasn't been a problem with mine, yet. My Ninja 250 (gone) had a relay that fired off of one of the stator AC legs and then latched on so the headlights would only come on when the engine was running. That would work great on the Uly but wiring in a TDR would be easier. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
This time delay relay is proving hard to find for me. The guy at Napa just gave me a blank stare. The one specified in a thread a month or two ago is no longer available. Does anyone have a part number or a vehicle specific application or some other clue that would make it easier for me to lay my hands on one? | ||
| Andymnelson |
http://cgi.ebay.com/HID-Relay-Time-Delay-SPDT-10-s econd-delay-/180544858770?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&ha sh=item2a094fea92#ht_2585wt_1080 | ||
| Reepicheep |
If you can't find one, I'll design you a circuit you could slap on a normal relay. I posted a schematic for one here before, it's in the archives somewhere, and it works fine... but I have since figured a better way to do it. I don't bother running it on my uly with the DDM 35w kit. It doesn't seem to be necessary. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I tried this.. it doesnt work. Maybe I just got a faulty part though.. I'll be contacting the seller tomorrow. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290526497271&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_510wt_1165 The NC contact is always on, the NO contact is always off.. regardless of how much voltage is at the trigger contact. It was advertised to engage at 13.45 volts, however I read a consistent 14.3 volts on it with the bike running, and it never switches. For now, I'm using a regular relay to operate the lights while I look for another solution either in the form of a TDR or another VSR. I still need to get outside and do some more precise aiming as well, but that will have to wait for better weather.   |
