| Author | Message | ||
     Mnrider |
From the auto parts store fit in the Uly. My bearings felt notchy when turning them with the wheel off so I installed new SKF 6006 2RSJ bearings from NAPA. If I did more long trips I may have sprung for the 2010 wheel but these should be good bearings. It's good to know we can get bearings from any auto parts store. | ||
| Someday |
Do you mind me asking what they ran you? $$ | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
how much did they run ya? | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
what what???? lol | ||
| Mnrider |
They cost $35 bucks each. I know it's more that the Buell bearings but no shipping and I didn't feel like going to the HD store.(Still mad at them) | ||
| Hughlysses |
That's good to know. I did some research a couple of years ago and found that these bearings are common to a bunch of ATV's. If you need bearings and don't have a NAPA or similar parts store nearby, this might be another way to find bearings. This info came from an aftermarket ATV supplier's website. (Repost follows.) ------- The XB rear wheel bearings are the same as a LOT of ATV's. If you have a failure on the road and you need a replacement now, the following ATV's use this bearing: 6006-2RS - 30 x 55 x 13 ATV Wheel Bearing This Part Fits: Honda ATC70 Suzuki LT-4WD QuadRunner LT-A400 Eiger 2x4 Auto LT-A400 Eiger Auto LT-A400F Eiger 4x4 Auto LT-A500F QuadMaster 4x4 LT-A500F QuadRunner 4x4 LT-A500F Vinson 4x4 LT-F250 QuadRunner LT-F250F QuadRunner 4x4 LT-F300F KingQuad 4x4 LT-F400 Eiger 2x4 Manual LT-F400 Eiger Manual LT-F400F Eiger 4x4 Manual LT-F4WDX KingQuad LT-F4WDX QuadRunner LT-F500F QuadRunner 4x4 Yamaha YFB250 Timberwolf 4x4 YFM100 Champ YFM350 Big Bear YFM350 Big Bear 2x4 YFM350 Big Bear 4x4 YFM350 Big Bear SE YFM350 Wolverine 4x4 YFM350ER YFM400 Big Bear YFM400 Big Bear 400 YFM400 Big Bear 4x4 YFM400 Kodiak YFM400 Kodiak 2x4 YFM400 Kodiak 4x4 YFM400 Kodiak Bear YFM400 Kodiak Bear 4x4 YFM450 Kodiak 4x4 YFM600 Grizzly YFM600 Grizzly 4x4 YFM660 Grizzly 4x4 YFM80 Badger This might allow you to find replacement bearings on the shelf at your nearby Honda/Suzuki/Yamaha dealer from any of several aftermarket manufacturers. | ||
| Teeps |
I believe the installation of the bearings to be more important than the manufacturer. The bearings on my Uly felt rough too. When turning them by hand with the wheel off. But, with the wheel installed (axle and pinch bolt) torqued to spec., without the belt and caliper, the bearings did not make any abnormal noise. | ||
| Mnrider |
Mine seemed ok with the belt and caliper off also but it would seem to me the bearing should still be smooth with a light sideload like it has not installed in the bike. With the new bearings I have no notchy feeling and mounted on the bike without the belt and caliper the wheel spins smooth and easy. I feel better with new bearings in the bike. I also went ahead and drilled two 1/8 inch holes in the hub,my hub was dry but I wanted to do it with the bearings out so I could tell the best place to drill. | ||
| Skinstains |
You guys need to check out your local bearing house. Kaman is national I think. Motion Industries is another. You can still get US made SKF's if you ask for them. I think I pay like 17 or 23 bucks a piece for them. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
wow thats quite expensive I payed around 40$ for 4 bearings the 2 front and the 2 rear ones | ||
| Gunut75 |
I'm doing mine for the sake of it. I have 18.5k miles on them with no problems at all. I'll measure the length of the spacer and make sure it is in spec. I ride a 12R. I have a local bearing shop to buy them at, It's a matter of what brand. | ||
| Whisperstealth |
I have 19.8K on my baby. Just changed the tires. While at it, following the recommendations of many here, I added grease to the bearings. The bearings felt the same way they did first time I changed the tires. - Stiff, a little hard to turn, but not notchy. I used a small flat blade screw driver to remove as much grease as possible, then filled them back up. Next tire change, I'll swap out the bearings. Not wanting put any more wear on the hub taking them in and out than necessary. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Don't forget the bearing thread in the Uly "New Owner's Section": http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/442488.html?1280712967 Lot's of useful info here. | ||
| Kenm123t |
Boca Bearings ceramic balls to totally ceramic | ||
| Skinstains |
I knew a guy who had ceramics in his race Buells wheels. The front wheel would spin forever when it was on the stands. Neat stuff if you can afford it. | ||
| Mnrider |
I put 7 new bearings in my snowmobile suspension last year and there was three choices $4,$16 and $23 in that size. The SKF's where the only one's they had in the 6006 size. | ||
| Gunut75 |
Not wanting put any more wear on the hub taking them in and out than necessary. I totally agree. I may just pop the seals and re-grease them. The rear tire I am putting on is only expected to last 3k miles or so, so I may have the bearings on hand just in-case.  | ||
| Whisperstealth |
China skf's 11.47 + 6.95 S&H on ebay. They are 2RS1, not 2RSJ Don't know what the difference is. http://cgi.ebay.com/6006-RS-SKF-Brand-Bearing-6006 -2RS1-30x55x13-NEW-/370464452891?pt=LH_DefaultDoma in_0&hash=item564166f11b | ||
| Uly_man |
6005.2RSH.SKF (front 25x47x12mm) and 6006.2RS1.SKF (rear 30x55x13mm). You can get the same size with a bit of play in them but you do not want that type. They are made for other applications. Bearings, steel, are made to a standard and they are all much the same even the Buell ones. I think the Buell, red type, ones may have had a grease and or seal issue in the past. If you can feel any wear, with the wheels on the bike, then change them out because it could be dangerous. The one to note is the slight wear, which you can not feel with the wheel on the bike, on the front which will effect the front end handling. It is not, at this point, dangerous though. It just makes the front end feel strange on the road. Use copper grease on the axle/hub, make sure the spacer is in spec and DO NOT over tighten the axle nuts as it crushes the spacer past spec. This will wear out the bearing faster. My front went at 14k but it was not dangerous. The rear was changed on the 5k service, but it still felt fine on the bike, and I changed it again at 14k because it felt a little tight. A "ball park" number of 15k on bike wheel bearings has always been about right on my bikes. It does, of course, depend on the bike, user and use. I see no need for the 2010 wheel and it smacks of a "knee-jerk" reaction on HDs, like some other things, part. The whole thing is no big deal and easy to fix. Just take care of those hubs as wear is very hard to fix. | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
Had an ATV shop in BFE, PA replaced my bearings with some cheap chinese 6006 bearings, and they've been holding up now for a couple thousand miles. I have a spare factory set and spacer in the topbox now. | ||
| Whisperstealth |
Uly_man, Confused by your first line. Are you saying the 2SR1's are NOT the one's to get? Or that 2SR1's are fine, it is others that are not. Thanks | ||
| Mnrider |
The SKF 6006-2RSJ bearings I got from NAPA are made in Argentina. | ||
| Arcticktm |
Back in 2008, when I replaced my RR bearings with SKF's, I found a lot of useful info on skfuse.com The box said 6006 2RSJEM ($24), but the bearing inside was scribed with: 6006-2RS1/C3 GJN (rear size) 6005-2RSH/C3 GJN (front size - just in case) Note the "1" & "H" are specific types of contact seals. The "H" is rated better for high pressure water exclusion, as the "1" is rated "not recommended", but both versions of seals have good ratings for static and dynamic water exclusion. I could not find the "H" seal in the 6006 size. The C3 is a bearing fit class. It is slightly more clearance then the industry default. That is not a bad thing in this application, and C3 appears to me to be appropriate (based on web research and SKF website). Remember there is a bit of preload applied when you tighten the axle properly, so you want a little clearance to start with. If you ever get to zero clearance, you are in trouble. GJN is the type of grease used. It is a high temp type, also well explained on the SKF website. I chose SKF due to name familiarity, some past dealings with their engineering folks for my work, and because of the helpful info on their website. | ||
| Blasterd |
So if I go to Napa to buy a set of bearings for my Uly which ones do I buy? | ||
| Ourdee |
Anyone know the going rate for a new spacer? | ||
| Skinstains |
You can specify the country of origin you want when buying the SKF's. I always tell them I want the USA made ones and sometimes have to wait for them to order them. You know what they say...Imports are Un-American. | ||
| Jeylux |
doing the same thing on my bike now. SKF no longer has the 6006 2RS JEM in a US made version. This version however was made in Canada, so that's good enough. |
