| Author | Message | ||
     Buellerxt |
First, I realize that Dr. Greg and one or two others have posted pictures of the tri-roll method, thank you guys, BUT I've looked for TWO hours and can't find them. I am trying to avoid getting stranded on long trips and are primarily focused on four things: - Service the bike well. I always do. - Install the 2010 wheel. I have it. - Carry a spare belt. I have one. - Carry good tools. I do. I also have a good towing service, a cell phone, a credit card, service manual, dealer guide, and Bueller helper list! Okay, back to the belt. I plan to keep my belt in the original box and in a cool, dry room 95% of the time. On trips though, I want to have it with me. I'll keep it in a tri-roll and in a black garbage bag. My question is, how do I 'wind' it, roll it, etc., and get it into the talked about band saw tri-roll, to avoid damage when on trips? Thanks. | ||
| Ourdee |
Put the new one on the bike with the 2010 wheel and carry the old one as a spare. It will have a little stretch and be easier to install roadside. | ||
| Rwven |
I always use my triple tail backpack on long trips, it fits in there pretty well with no sharp bends. | ||
| Rwcfrank |
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btOSZNjWMyk&feature =related | ||
| Buellerxt |
Thanks guys, and Wow, Rwcfrank, a Youtube video on folding a band saw blade!  Thanks Wouldn't the lateral stresses on the belt be too much in that kind of 'folding'? Once folded it seems like it would have proper diameters but folding and unfolding would seem to put potentially damaging stresses on the belt. The loads are super low but . . . Is this the method used to get Uly belts in the band-saw tri-fold position? Thanks. | ||
| Tootal |
+1 on putting the new belt on. A used belt is easier to install and easier to fold. The method seen in the video is correct and is really easy on a used belt. I keep mine under the seat at all times.  | ||
| Rwcfrank |
I used to run a Doall saw that would cut you in half in a second. the blade demanded respect and was about 10 feet long. When properly folded like in the video there is no load on the belt at all. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I prefer the heart-shaped fold. I then use it as a load restraint in the saddlebag.  | ||
| Buellerxt |
I understand the 'change the belt and carry the old belt as a spare' sentiment, fully, but with all due respect, I'm thinking of something different. I do my own basic services but I have a good friend/tech who does my tire changes, belt changes, and more experience-intensive stuff. So, given that I only have 8,500 miles on my bike, have seen that many have gotten 25,000 - 35,000+ miles on their belt, and feel that I'll 'probably' get 25,000+ miles on mine, and hopefully much more, since I don't ride off road, I plan on keeping my original belt on. If I have a belt break in the next year, with one year of warranty left and a good towing service, I'll have it towed in and repaired under warranty. I'll only carry the new belt when on trips to keep from spending days waiting on a belt. My interest in belt 'folding' is to avoid hurting the belt on trips. That band saw method looks cool but the 'twisting' the belt goes through while getting in the roll position seems potentially stressful. I'm also considering, if there is no damage risk-free way to bring it along, over night shipping options if I get hit with the low probability break. | ||
| Hangetsu |
I didn't take a pic of this, but when on trips, I snake mine loosely inside the lid of my Touraatech Zega pannier. It fits perfectly inside the lid, no tight bends, no twists, and a couple tabs of duct tape hold it in place. For shorter local rides, I usually don't carry the panniers, but I have AAA+, so I don't worry about carrying the spare. | ||
| Court |
It would be cool to see someone do a video of a roadside belt change. I confess I've never changed one and would like to know how. Perhaps start it out with a list of tools, then a step by step walk through of the procedure. | ||
| Tastroman |
Court, That is a great suggestion. Hopefully someone who knows what they are doing will step up and help us noobs out. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
The only hard part of a NEW belt change is getting the idler back on the two studs because the belt is so darned tight. A used belt would be much easier, but then I'm assuming that these latest iterations of the belt stretch after use. At least I'm hoping these new belts grow a bit. | ||
| Tootal |
They do. After I installed the new belt, in my warm garage, with all the tools to make it as easy as possible it still was a pita to get the idler pulley back on. Once finished it was as tight as a banjo string but after 5000 miles it has a little flex. Buellerxt, I understand that you still have a warranty but when on long trips, out in the middle of nowhere, on the side of the road, in the rain, you really will appreciate #1, having done the job yourself already which will make it go much faster and #2, the used belt will be so much easier to slip on than that new one and #3, folding a used belt is a lot less likely to do any damage. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I have yet to do a belt change, but I have done a tire change with a new belt on the bike. It should be just a matter of: Lay bike on its side Remove front pulley cover Remove swingarm bridge Remove rear axle, allowing tire to move forward in swingarm Install new belt Use rear axle to 'lever' rear wheel into position with replacement belt in place Reinstall swingarm bridge, reinstall front pulley cover. When you think about it, if you have a wheel off for a tire change, the ONLY items holding the belt on are the front pulley cover and that swingarm bridge. And no, I never loosen or remove my tensioner for a tire change... | ||
| Uly_man |
My first belt went at 7k, the second at 14k and that one was dealer (a good one) fitted. Both were the old type belts and broke clean with no sign of damage to the belt or any wheel/output shaft bearing wear. I have now fitted the new G0500.1AKF type and keep one as a spare because I know I will need it sooner or later. The one that went at 7k was at the start of a trip to the EU and if I had carried a spare I could have carried on with the holiday. The thing to remember is that recovery people do not carry Buell belts, not in the EU anyway, and will have to take you to a dealer to buy one. If it is, like mine on a Sunday, you will have to wait until they open up for work. If you are going on a trip then take a belt. Trust me you might need it, I did, and with a few tools you can change it out in less than one hour on the road. Do not twist the belt as the do not like it much. An old one as a spare is best. Ok so changing the belt on the road. Its easy. Just have the right tools and make sure the axle is not stuck on the bearings or spacer tube before you go on your trip. Having a FST makes it easier to do. Next is how to do it. Place the bike on a firm standing. On the R/H side remove the two rear Torx bolts of the chin guard. The three on the output pulley guard and remove it. Then the upper and lower belt guards. The R/H foot hanger section (three bolts) to gain access to the swingarm section. Remove the swingarm section to allow for the belt change. Free off the two axle pinch bolts, undo the axle until the wheel has a free/twisting feel (about 20 anti-clockwise turns) and fit the new belt. If you have a FST compress the spring, or loose it off, to make it easier. If you have a OEM idle wheel just ease the belt over/on with care. Re-fit parts in reverse order. Torque up bolts/axle if you want to carry a torque wrench and for best results try do not lose any bolts while doing it. The whole thing is very easy to do and much more so than a chain/sprocket change. | ||
| Prowler |
Best option as far as I'm concerned: -Buy a spring loaded belt tensioner and install it first. This may prolong your belt's life (and wheel bearings) in the first place, but that's another discussion all-together. -Do not lay the bike on it's side!(huh?) Follow instructions noted above. Uly-man beat me to the punch. But another suggestion based on my personal experience is to remove the bridge bolts one at a time and re-install them with blue loc-tite when you get a chance as they are a bitch to loosen on the side of the road with the tiny wrench included in the kit.. (Message edited by prowler on December 12, 2010) | ||
| Tootal |
Ratbuell, if the belt was not changed at the time of the tire then it was not a new belt. You are correct, if you remove the rear axle and allow the wheel to go forward you wouldn't have to remove the idler. You also state that you laid the bike on it's side. That's something I might do if I had to change the tire but if only changing the belt I would do it on the side stand and just loosen the axle. A brand new belt doesn't even want to mate with the pulleys. I had to press the lugs into the pulley to gain as much slack as I could and even then I was afraid I was going to damage the belt twisting it onto the idler, so that's when the idler came off. I really didn't want to pry on the belt. I think a 100 miles on the new belt is enough to make the job a lot easier. | ||
| Gunut75 |
I put on my new belt while the bike was sitting on my patio on the kickstand. I loosened the axle as far as I could without disengaging the threads. It went on easy as pie. Just dont unscrew the axle too far. After doing it in my yard, I would hold no reservation to do one on the side of the road. Warranty or not. The dealer would take too long as far as I'm concerned. I would put the new belt on, and carry the old one for a spare. I was lucky I was close to home, and had a nearby friend with a truck. Now I carry a spare. | ||
| Jessemc |
EG97: The only hard part of a NEW belt change is getting the idler back on the two studs because the belt is so darned tight. I did a precautionary belt change when doing a tire change with the bike cradled on 2X4's on a motorcycle jack. Never removed or even loosened the idler pulley. The belt was really tight but a bit of pressure on the wheel circumference turned it into position. I wouldn't have any qualms about doing it at the side of the road, but it should be much easier to get an already stretched belt on as mentioned here many times. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Perhaps I should clarify my "bike on its side" statement. 1. I was thinking side of the road, no stands. 2. I cheat. I have big ol' saddlebags to lay it on and take the weight off the wheel  I would NOT want to do anything with the axle if the weight of the bike was still on it. And ok...so the belt was about 2 days old when I changed the tire. | ||
| Eulysses |
As a long-time snowmobiler (which are belt driven) don't worry about winding the belt up ala bandsaw. They are TOUGH! Snomo belts are side driven...squeezed by the clutches and endure incredible heat. These drive belts can take a lot. I think the big issue is twisting it up in a fashion that takes a little "set" that makes it a little harder to put on. But once on and warmed up it will settle into its real life. | ||
| Motorfish |
If you put a mark on the axle and swingarm, and counted the amount of turns it took to loosen it, you could count the turns when tightening, to at least get you in the ballpark. Then you would not need to carry a torque wrench. Right? The less stuff to carry, the better. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Good input and much appreciated. Does anyone know if the 2010 wheel complicates the roadside change at all? I'm either going to go through a belt change with my friend/tech to learn, or depending on the belt condition wait until the next tire change, another 8,000-9,000 miles, to get more life from my belt before changing. Isn't there a magic wand or something! Thanks | ||
| Ratbuell |
The '10 wheel has three bearings in it, not two. The axle has a different profile because of it. That's the only change. In/out, on/off...same deal as an '09-earlier wheel. | ||
| Scooter808484 |
Buellerxt, I can see not wanting to change that belt right away, but keep checking the tension. Every time mine has broken, the belt has loosened considerably just prior to breaking. Loose enough that you can turn the idler pulley easily with you hand. Once it gets loose go ahead and change to the new belt and use that old one as the spare. I wouldn't want to have to put a new one on the side of the road if I didn't have to. Mine have been a bugger to get stretched. Of course, your "sides of the road" might be nicer than my wet cold muddy ones. Because of my recent mishap, where I think the idler pulley bearing failed and took out my belt, I think I'll change the pulley bearings at every belt change, which turns out to be about 10k miles for me. I might stretch to 20k on those bearings, but mine failed at 30k. | ||
| Tootal |
And ok...so the belt was about 2 days old when I changed the tire. Two days!! That's like 300 miles for you!!  | ||
| Etennuly |
More like 800 miles that time! A little trick on the idler. My new belt was too tight to go on with out taking the idler out of the way. Loosen the nuts to the end of the studs and slide it out to the nuts without taking it off from the studs. It will give you enough clearance to make it happen, then just slide the idler bracket down the studs. | ||
| Paralegalpete |
Well I could tell you how not to do it.  Well I can tell you how not to do it. Don't just bring your second grade tools on a long trip, and do a practice belt change before you get in the middle of nowhere in wild critter country with darkness approaching and no cell service. A spare belt may come in handy despite requiring a rescue (rather than a roadside fix) as without a spare it will likely be on back order. I was able to complete my trip because I had the spare on hand. | ||
| Zac4mac |
I was running around a field by the shop yesterday, chasing prairie dogs and jumping over their holes. Really was fun until I stopped moving. Glad we had a new belt on the shelf. Just shy of 20k miles, looking at the broken belt, if I flex it towards the teeth, the back is FULL of "weather-check" cracks. I kept the belt and will be looking at it more. Once I got the Beast back to the shop, we stuck it on a lift and were done in a half-hour. Had to fix it ASAP so I could get home last night. More important, it's going to be in the upper 60s today and I want to take the wife for a ride. |
