| Author | Message | ||
     Thesmaz |
I'm needing to swap out the rear wheel on my 06 Uly and would like to know if any of the Badweb sponsor have one in stock. Thanks, Steve | ||
| Hughlysses |
Check with American Sport Bike; they had them in stock when I got mine last October. | ||
| Froggy |
A wheel is not something a dealer would normally have in stock being that its not a consumable or other frequently purchased item. If anybody would have it in stock, its American Sport Bike. | ||
| Ronmold |
Al don't have one, he's waiting like I am, 58 days now. | ||
| Xbrad9r |
Who is the original manufacturer of this wheel? Is this (or a better replacement) something that might be available in the future from either Erik Buell Racing or the OEM wheel company? I would prefer to buy somewhere other than H-D if possible anyway. | ||
| Ronmold |
Somewhere in China, I think the company is Lo Flung Dung or something.  | ||
| Oddball |
They subbed out shipping remember? It's now delivered by Wong Way delivery. If it's late you know it's come the Wong Way.   | ||
| Court |
Buell wheels are made by ENKEI You can go to their website and read about your favorite NASCAR and other performance wheels. Some of the best in the world . . . which is why motorcycle manufacturers use them. | ||
| Thesmaz |
I've got one on order with American Sport Bike, just wanted to see if there was one out there somewhere. I need the wheel NOW! My rear is giving me problems, the pulley side bearing is messed up and the bearing slips in about half way. I'm also getting a random "thunk" whenever the wheel is rotated (it's on the stand right now) which i figure is the bearing slopping around in the hub. | ||
| Cyclonedon |
Lo Flung Dung or Wong Way you guys crack me up! that's too funny!  | ||
| Rays |
That certainly sounds like the bearing moving but all is not lost. I first heard a 'click' on my '06 as I was pushing the bike into the shed at about 48,000 miles. I thought it must have been a bearing failing and after a lot of stuffing around discovered the bearing slightly loose in the hub. The good news with this situation is that it is pretty difficult to get any side thrust on the bearing given it is now effectively self-centering.  Of course that is cold comfort knowing the wheel is toast. I ordered a 2010 wheel (this was pre-meltdown) and had to wait the normal 6 - 8 weeks for it to come in given we are downunder so I needed to try and cobble it up to keep using for work. It took me three attempts to get it right (I initially tried Loctite 660 but it is too thick for this application I found) but I now have the R/H bearing held in place with Loctite 680 Retaining Compound (the really serious green stuff). I had a lot of trouble getting it to set given the placement of the bearing and the open air around the outer edge of the bearing but with slathers of 7471 Primer and then sealing the outer from the air with some tape I got it to take. The new wheel came and is sitting safely on the shelf waiting for me to get motivated to fit the bearings but the Loctite is still in place and it is 12,000 miles since I started playing with the worn hub.. I will definitely change the wheel at the next tyre change but would recommend the Loctite treatment if you need to keep it on the road while you wait for the back-ordered wheel. This is what my hub looked like when I first pulled the loose bearing out. It had been wriggling around for some time by the look of the wear pattern.  My wheel had the bearings replaced once before this was noticed and I can only assume that I either got the wheel with the bearing seat at the absolute maximum tolerance or the dealer must have taken a bit of hub with the old bearing because I was super-careful fitting the bearings. Anyway, water under the bridge and it cannot dampen my enthusiasm for the dear old '06.  Let me know if I can assist with anything. | ||
| Thesmaz |
Rays, Thanks for the info. I'll see if I can find some of that stuff or something similar here in Italy. Do you think JB weld would work well enough until the new wheel shows up? | ||
| Buellerxt |
Can any of you guys verify that the 2010 wheel in Killian Black is: G1309.02A8YT? Thanks. | ||
| Froggy |
You keep misspelling Villain... | ||
| Panhead_dan |
Might work. Might not. A wheel bearing on a motorcycle is a high stress situation. It'll put the locktite or what ever to a test for sure. I you had a machine shop around there that had a guy that could weld aluminum, the fix shouldn't be too bad. Pour some mig on it and machine it back to spec. 2 hours labor max. How much could it cost? | ||
| Panhead_dan |
Matter of fact, why doesn't somebody have the machinist put a sleeve in there so that a bearing change isn't so hard on the hub? | ||
| 1313 |
Enkei wheels: Some of the best in the world . . . which is why motorcycle manufacturers use them. I concur! But, is that why H-D uses Castalloy for it's cast wheels? Sorry I couldn't resist... 1313 | ||
| Court |
Castalloy was doing well until they went broke. HD, I think, bailed them out. Is HD still even using Castalloy? | ||
| Crusty |
I've heard that Marchesini and Brembo also make some pretty good wheels. (Message edited by Crusty on July 07, 2010) | ||
| Buellerxt |
Thanks for pointing that out, Froggy. Okay, I'll ask again, with correct spelling this time, is G1309.02A8YT the correct part number for the new 2010 wheel in Villain Black? I need to be sure. Thanks. | ||
| Redbuell_really_gives_you_wings |
Going by this thread.. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/563040.html?1273594607 you will find numbers for separate part numbers for kit. Going by this thread here.. http://badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/discus.cgi?pg=prev&topic=142838&page=547344 your number is for the kit which i believe is no longer available. (Message edited by Redbuell_really_gives_you_wings on July 08, 2010) | ||
| Froggy |
G - Wheels/Brakes 1 - Kit (Includes stuff other than the main part) 309 - Rear wheel .02a8 - 03 Firebolt Yt - Villain Black
G - Wheels/Breaks 0 - Standalone part 309 - Rear wheel .7AA - 2010 XB12R Yt - Villain Black. AFAIK the kit for it is no longer available, I've heard mixed information about the stand alone wheel, and the possibility of a totally different part number. Beats the hell out of me. Call your dealer. | ||
| Court |
>>>I've heard that Marchesini and Brembo also make some pretty good wheels. Both make excellent wheels and if you are producing something on the order of 1,500 - 3,000 motorcycles a year . . . I'd use them . . Buell did. But once you get to about 2,000 until per year (Buell was running around 10,000) you've exceeded their production capacity. | ||
| Rwven |
Here's the list of parts you will need, I got mine about 2 months ago so these numbers should still be good. The pricing is with a 20% discount, you may not be able to get that. 1 x G0309.7AAYT $228.00 1 x G0620.5AK $4.84 2 x EA0002.5AK $6.00 3 x E0005.5AK $36.48 1 x G0321.5AK $44.40 1 x G0323.5AK $11.68 Sub-Total: $331.40 Standard Shipping (Ground): $16.75 Total: $348.15 | ||
| Barkbuster |
Is a different axle part of the kit or does the original still work? Seems unlikely the old one would work. | ||
| Froggy |
Different axle comes with the kit, or you can buy it separately. You need the new axle for the 2010 wheel. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Okay, I've got it! Thanks to all. Froggy, your part number breakdown was very helpful and Rwven, your itemization is a great help. It sure looks like the kit is no longer available for some strange reason. Thanks. | ||
| Hughlysses |
The 2010 axle is hard-annodized with a black finish too, which will prevent the corrosion problems many people have found with the earlier bare aluminum axles. | ||
| Court |
>>>>The 2010 axle is hard-annodized with a black finish too . . . Dat's a fak jak!    | ||
| Court |
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