| Author | Message | ||
     Jhallgren |
I was performing a clutch adjustment and when I pulled the clutch cover off there was quite a bit of this white foam substance on the cover. I have seen this on car oil caps. I know its condensation from the heat up and cool down but that seemed to be a lot. I had changed the primary oil about 2000 miles ago. Is it possible water is getting into the primary? I don't have any primary oil leaks. Or have you guys seen this as well? | ||
| David_e |
Seen it in my uly. Some times if you remove some of the fender and splash guard components it allows water to get into the breather tube while riding in wet weather conditions so i've heard. I have the same issue with my Uly right now so I'm going to take the primary cover off and clean everything out with WD-40 and replace the oil. If you leave it like that eventually it could cause some damage to clutch components. | ||
| Jhallgren |
Where is this breather tube? I have not removed anything. The Uly is stock. I have not done any alterations to it at all. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Water is possible...but if you're riding a lot of short hops (under 15 minutes' riding per trip), you're gonna exponentially increase the condensation factor. If you start it...ride it for 30 minutes. | ||
| Jhallgren |
I use my bike to commute to work every day. I have an hour ride to work. Even on the weekends I usually go on rides for several hours. I have had a few trips where it was raining pretty hard. I wonder if water did get in, but what concerns me is, if water is getting in, where is it getting in from? | ||
| Rays |
I had this the first year I started riding my Uly to work in 'rain, hail or shine' conditions. One suggestion from here on Badweb was water getting into the primary via the clutch cable. I started guarding against this by using a tie-wrap on the upper side of the mid-cable clutch adjustor cover and also sealing the join in the clutch cable outer cover just near the lower triple. I just went out and took a shot of both potential water ingress points. In the photo you can see some electrical tape that is now starting to lift - that is covering the join in the clutch cable out covering that also had some RTV squeezed into the join. This same covering enters the rubber cover for the clutch cable adjustor. You can see where I have a small red tie-wrap sealing this join. I wouldn't seal the bottom as that will only trap water in that rubber cover. Make sure the adjustor is lightly greased before you slip the cover down and you won't get corrosion in that area. The other end of that outer cover is just behind the instruments so if you leave your bike uncovered in the rain I would seal that join with a little RTV. This may only be a placebo but I have never seen the massive water build up since and have used the bike for commuting in exactly the same riding pattern (that has included absolutely torrential rain). It is a dead-simple modification that will cost next to nothing so can't hurt to try. Yes, I know its looking a bit grubby but it has 60,000 miles under its belt so it's entitled.  | ||
| Crusty |
I went through two clutch hub bearings on my XT. The first was taken care of under warranty; the second, I replaced myself. When I removed the Primary cover, and swung it aside to get to the clutch, clear water dribbled out of the cable housing. The Cable Adjuster sits behind the front wheel and gets a heavy amount of spray from the front tire. I cover the adjuster with grease, pull the boot down over it and zip-tie the boot like Rays does in the picture above. | ||
| Jlnance |
As other have said, the water is most likely getting in there via the clutch cable. It is a fairly common problem. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I did what you show in that photo and it trapped moister inside that boot and rusted up everything under the boot. I had to WD40 it something fierce to get it broke loose for adjustment. No more tie wraps there for me. WARNING WILL ROBINSON WARNING | ||
| Crusty |
That's why I pack it with grease first, then zip tie the top of the boot. Also, you should have seen the corrosion and rust on both my and Terris adjusters before I started doing the grease and zip-tie. A better, but more expensive solution is to put a hydraulic clutch system on the bike. That will eliminate any chance of water getting in through there. (Message edited by Crusty on May 23, 2010) | ||
| Pso |
Like Rays, did mine when idea fist came out several years ago. No water in primary, plus I only zip tied the top not the bottom so it would breath. Put light coat of oil on the ajusters, no rust or probelms. garage kept and very seldom ride in the rain. | ||
| David_e |
What are the symptoms of a bad clutch bearing? | ||
| Crusty |
Your primary will sound like a cement mixer. Then the clutch will start acting funny. (Message edited by Crusty on May 23, 2010) | ||
| Jhallgren |
Ok thanks guys. I had thought that might be where the water was getting in. When I pulled the boot up to do my clutch adjustment, a lot of water came out of the boot. I will give Rays fix a shot. Thanks again for the info. | ||
| Dr_greg |
I live in a very dry climate, yet once when I removed the clutch cover I saw this:  My problem is a 5-mile commute and fairly cold winter weather; the engine never warms sufficiently to burn off the condensation. I try to get a weekend ride in to burn it off. Had to replace the clutch needle bearing on my first '06 Uly, but so far my current '06 is okay. Probably blocking the oil cooler (to some degree) during the winter would be a good idea. Some folks have done that. --Doc | ||
| Buellerxt |
Great picture, Greg, thanks. I've talked to my kids about this for years and just sent them a 'reminder' with that great picture as an example. Thanks. | ||
| Jhallgren |
Greg, mine looked just like that as well. I to have been riding in cold temps so maybe that is a possibility that condensation was just building up and not burning off. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Dr. Greg, You're loving your ULY too much.  | ||
| Husky |
I live in California, where our temperature is 34-114F. I have a thermometer in the swing arm oil tank cap on my 08 XT and it runs at 180F on the road and 200F in town. I have seen 215F pulling a steep city hill (35mph) where I live. Some times I block of as much as 1/2 the oil cooler radiator at air temps below 50F to maintain those temperatures in the oil tank. Make sure you follow the manual and get the bike and oil HOT, like from a 15 minute or so ride(minimum), changing the oil immediately after shut off. Not 10-15 minutes after, but right after shutting it off! No spouge! End of sermon.... Husky |
