| Author | Message | ||
     Arcticktm |
Just FYI, I posted the history of my experience with this under the Knowledge Vault today, under Brakes section. Summary is I broke down and bought new stuff from Erik Buell Racing. We'll see if the good times last. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/559120.html?1272304427 | ||
| Rwven |
I've traveled most of that road myself. Keep us informed of how you do with time. | ||
| Portero72 |
Yes, keep us informed. I have had pulsing with both stock and Lyndalls pads, and gone through several discs. I'm curious about the EBR setup. | ||
| Ulynut |
I cured my pulsing 20,000 miles ago with a new rotor. | ||
| Maximum |
"I cured my pulsing 20,000 miles ago with a new rotor." Me too! Plus I went ahead and added the ZTL2 while I was at it...and I try to limit my number of unnecessarily hard stops. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Articktm- Thanks much for this info. Could you elaborate on what EB Racing said on the 6 mm rotor versus the "finned" 5 mm rotor? I'm planning to change mine in the near future too. | ||
| Jcbikes |
I have had the pulsing recently too. I used emery cloth to get the glazing off the pads and for now its much better and almost gone. will see how long it holds up. | ||
| Johnboy777 |
""Me too! Plus I went ahead and added the ZTL2 while I was at it...and I try to limit my number of unnecessarily hard stops."" I think if you are too easy on the front brakes it builds up that dark layer of film. Whenever mine starts pulsing I make four or five 'unnecessarily hard stops' and the pulsing goes away. I use S100 Polishing Soap on occasion, too. YMMV EDIT: Brake rotors are supossed to get hot (helps to clean the rotor )- ours don't, for the most part, because of how big they are. If you baby the rotor - that dark film never gets a chance to get cleaned off. Since I started my rides off with a few really hard stops, my front rotor needs a lot less cleaning, and it pulses less, as well. . (Message edited by johnboy777 on April 26, 2010) | ||
| Johnboy777 |
Not to put too fine of an edge of this chit - but here's a great article by Stop Tech The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_braked isk.shtml . | ||
| Bikelit |
Good info John. Well worth reading.......... | ||
| Terrible1one3 |
I cured mine with a new rotor and Lyndall pads. So far a few hundred miles with no issues (knock on wood). I don't know how I lasted 15k miles barely using my front brake because of the horrid pulse... | ||
| Dr_greg |
I cured mine with a new rotor and Lyndall pads. I cured mine with a new rotor and stock pads. Lyndall pads caused my pulsation. Go figure... --Doc | ||
| Froggy |
Funny, doing some emergency stopping practice caused mine to pulse. | ||
| Terrible1one3 |
Doc, I'm guessing the new rotor was the main cure. I just read on here at some point that the stock pads were suspect for the pulse and Lyndall's are the cure so I went that route. Seems like it's more the rotor than the pad as I have seen many people say they developed a pulse even with Lyndall pads. | ||
| Reepicheep |
The lyndalls definately made my pulsing Uly get much better, but it's not gone yet. Odd, never had the problem in 30k miles beating on a 9sx, and I am not a skinny guy. So I'm guessing there was a rotor issue. I should just get a new one from EBR and be done with it... | ||
| Arcticktm |
I added the email info I received from EBR to my Knowledge Vault post. See link at top of this post. | ||
| Johnboy777 |
""Funny, doing some emergency stopping practice caused mine to pulse"" You mean to tell me that you have the latest greatest rotors and brakes and you're worried about making too many sudden stops, otherwise your brakes pulse. Very funny. . | ||
| Arcticktm |
I thought one of the keys when following a brake pad/rotor bedding method was to let off the brakes just before you actually stop (like 5-10mph) to avoid stopping until you had allowed the brakes to cool a bit underway. That's why I figured none of the big name pad companies actually give you a break in procedure like this anymore. They are likely afraid of someone either getting a ticket or an accident and blaming the company for a procedure that was not really safe/legal on most public roads. | ||
| Nobuell |
I have stock pads with the original rotor. I never baby the brakes and I have never had any problems. Just installed new OEM pads (at approximately 17,000 miles) a few weeks ago and just scrubbed the rotors with sand paper and cleaned them with brake cleaner. When washing the bike, I always make sure the rotor bolts are clean and the rotor is free to move. I do not know if that helped, but that is my experience. | ||
| Arcticktm |
FYI: My old (stock) pulsing rotor check 0.011" for runout/flatness on a surface plate (off the bike, obviously). SM spec is 0.0248" but that seems ridiculously large when most brake system folks online seem to think anything over a few thousandths of an inch is a lot. I am ready to say the rotor warpage was my main issue. | ||
| Rwven |
This place is destroying my budget....I just placed an order for the 6mm rotor and mounting kit.... | ||
| Alchemy |
But the ZTL rotor floats so runout specs might make allowances for that movement. It would be interesting to compare the runout of the 6mm rotor when Rwven gets his. Then there is the wheel to which to rotor is fixed and the way the mounting hardware was tightened. It would be great to find a solid fix for this so I am anxious to see how the 6mm rotor does over time. | ||
| Tootal |
If the rotor floats then a little run out would not be felt as easy. Take a micrometer and check the thickness every three inches or so and see if it has any thick or thin spots. This happened on my dad's Venture Royal. Terrible brake shudder. I finally measured them and found different thicknesses. Had them blanchard ground and no more problems. | ||
| Paralegalpete |
My front brake started pulsing a few weeks ago, 14kms. I had the dealer look at it and he says yup, needs a new front rotor. Not covered under warranty (wear item) and the part is 240 bucks ca. | ||
| Hughlysses |
You can get the racing 6mm thick rotor from Erik Buell Racing for $125 U.S. | ||
| Brakes2late |
Just ordered mine! After a panic stop on the freeway almost put me through the back window of car this week... | ||
| Arcticktm |
Did 700 miles in NC mountains over the weekend, and front brake setup is still smooth as glass. Seems like more initial lever travel until engagement, though (not a mush lever, just farther to go). Nice progressive feel to me. All my mounting hardware was visually inspected, clean, and torqued to spec (25 ft-lbs) in proper pattern. I also always use at least 2 steps when torquing anything in a pattern (snug first, then 50% torque, then full torque spec). I don't believe that the floating rotor allows you to have a huge runout spec. It seems to me that you would still feel the pulsing, as the rotor cannot instantly move. It won't move until it feels more resistance, at which point you have already felt the pulsing when the rotor "pushed back" on the brake pistons. The runout in my rotor had some dramatic transition areas between 2 mount points, so I don't think the spring mounting could take all that up without it being felt. I checked the rotor thickness in 6 places before checking runout, and all measurements were within 0.01mm of each other (.0004"). It was with electronic vernier calipers, though, not a micrometer. I did not bother with more thickness checks after finding the runout so high. | ||
| Catalan42 |
Hi - Just did 600 miles this weekend, after installing new "high friction" pads (Sorry, don't know the brand the shop used. Medium pricey but not race-pricey). New pads were great, about 2x the friction of stockers for a given lever pressure. Worked great, but after about 400 miles I tried to slow down about 5 mph going into a turn using very mild lever pressure (2 fingers). Well, I got the worst pulsing/vibrating/"tangled" feeling ever! I thought something really must be wrong with the front tire. Was afraid to continue in the turn (a righty), and went across the line and stopped on the left shoulder (fortunately no cars present). I could not find anything wrong, and could not reproduce the problem in the last 200 miles. My best guess was that maybe the front tire (5-yr-old stock D616) was "skipping" on the pavement for some reason (catching-skidding-catching very fast), however this sounds implausible. I know what a front-wheel skid feels like on the Uly and my old Sportster. Any ideas? | ||
| Jammin_joules |
order no. 1954 | ||
| Terrible1one3 |
Catalon42 Debris on the road? Was there a wet or oily spot on the tire where you might have run over some oil? Was it hot and sunny and they had the tar crack filler in the road? Could have been a lot of things, if it is intermittent it doubtfully is the brakes, most likely road conditions but who knows... |
