| Author | Message | ||
     Sleez |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/355981.html?1209069572 i decided to revive this thread for some updates. please continue discussion here, thanks. anyone? what have you done? found a cool switch at Veypor http://www.veypor.com/buttons.html i emailed them and asked for a switch without the special harness, 45.00 plus shipping. might do it. it will even give the flexibility of having the extra button for something else in the future. | ||
| Ourdee |
Like a garage door opener? | ||
| Sleez |
well, the main thing is to make a remote switch to operate the mode button on the dash, since reaching off the bars is a drag. the other button could be connected to almost anything, gps, radio, ipod, camera, etc. | ||
| Froggy |
Why not make the other button the reset? | ||
| Sleez |
Froggy, the need to reset while rolling is not a hi pri, but if you have nothing else to use the second button for, it should work fine. | ||
| Danger_dave |
Unintentionally rude post removed (Message edited by danger_dave on January 29, 2009) | ||
| Sleez |
you suggest i have no life, and i always liked you dave... now you act like so many trolls...???? | ||
| Danger_dave |
Just a gag mate - meant as a pun. carry on. forgot smiley face sorry. (Message edited by danger_dave on January 29, 2009) | ||
| Sleez |
ok, no harm, no foul. carry on then, i can take a jab with the best of 'em. how's your weather down there now? | ||
| Danger_dave |
Been perfect. Uly is off the road though - Fan died and taking 2 weeks to get one to NZ. Currently have a Honda Shadow 750 Cruiser in the shed. I'm not cranky - honest. | ||
| Glenn |
Hi Sleez, I'm wondering if you found anything for a small switch to work with this mod? I was looking at the stock right side switch assembly and thought that drilling through the snap in cover where the heated grip switch is mounted would be a good spot to use. The switch would have to be fairly small and the electrical connection would be protected inside of the housing. I figured that along with some silicone to seal it up would work well there. I find the stock button switch to be inconvenient. I reach it from under the bar but have to look down away from the road to do it which I don't like. Thanks | ||
| Sleez |
thanks ferris! well i finally decided to tackle this mod; first disassembled the flyscreen, to get at the gauge cluster mounting nuts.  cut a few zip ties, and removed the connector at the back of the cluster. pretty easy so far. cluster on the worktable.  remove the screws that hold the cluster together, exposing the PCB!!!  i was originally going to route the cable in next to the main plug, but not quite enough room. then i was going to drill a hole in the back, but the PCB is too close to the back to allow easy routing, so i decided to come in through the bottom edge. i drilled a hole and added a grommet.   i also had to slot the rear cover to allow it to slide past the grommet and cable.  here is the cable routed through the grommet with a zip tie for strain relief. i actually cut this zip tie off because i needed a bit more wire to work with, but added another one in it's place, didn't feel the need to take another pic.  i OHMED the switches to see how they were configured. each switch has 4 legs, 2 pair of ganged legs. the upper pair and lower pair on each switch are electrically the same.  then i routed the wires to clear the mounting boss, and installed the PCB.  then i soldered the wires to the pads, one on top, one on bottom.  then i mounted the switch on the handlebars. this was a bit problematic, there wasn't enough room to mount it while the clutch perch was in the way. i removed the HL switch housing, loosened the clutch perch and slid it toward the grip, disconnected the plug to the clutch switch, plenty of room now. then i mounted the switch, and re-installed the clutch perch and HL switch housing. of course i tested it before i buttoned everything up, it works fine. there is not quite enough room to have the new switch flush to the clutch perch, due to some interference with the clutch switch connector. it is a bit of a reach, but way better than trying to reach into the gauge cluster cave of death!   while i was farkleing, i added a bazootie, i pieced together from the HW store for about $3.00  so now i have toggle and reset capability without moving my hand very far from the grip. if i were to do this again, i would have put some black sleeving over the gray cable, it would look more "factory". other than that i am very happy with this mod. | ||
| Kellaupat |
That is nice. I would hope the factory checks out this site once in a while, and "steals" these ideas!  | ||
| Jerry_haughton |
thanks ferris! Anytime, bro.  | ||
| Sleez |
thanks Kellaupat. there are more elegant ways of doing it, but would have cost about twice as much. either way you do it, you would connect to the PCB the same way. the other way to do it, if there are unused pins on the main gauge connector, you could just route new wires into that connector, and run wires on the surface of the PCB. i imagine if buell were to do this factory, they would have a switch on the left housing similar to the Moto Guzzi part we referenced on the earlier thread. |
