| Author | Message | ||
     Mrsnuggles |
So, I just did my 20k service about two weeks ago, and the bike has been running like a champ. I pulled the seat tray out this morning to tighten the ECM where it screws into the drop screw because it was loose (post comfort kit install). I took it out today, and the engine light came on, so I pulled over. The thought was I would cut it off, cycle the switch, and hopefully clear out codes from pulling it apart this morning. After I cycled the switch, it wouldn't start, and it would just repeatedly click which I pushed the ignition. The battery is brand spankin' new, so I'm doubting that's it, unless there is a short somewhere draining it. About to step into the garage and pull it apart, but thought I would post this up for advice. (Message edited by mrsnuggles on September 15, 2009) | ||
| Mrsnuggles |
Bat is down to 11V. I'm guessing that it's not being charged? Faulty Battery? Any ideas? Only code it throws at me is low volt. (Message edited by mrsnuggles on September 15, 2009) | ||
| Hughlysses |
77 connector. | ||
| Froggy |
The click o death is not enough power going to the starter. Usually its a dead battery. You said battery is new, I want to say you got a loose connection somewhere, possibly related to the comfort kit tray. Your second post makes me wonder if your having a failure of the "77" connector. It would cause the stator to not charge the bike correctly, and the bike would die after running low on power. I would check that connection. | ||
| Rotorhead |
Voltage regulator!!!! I've had 3 go bad. Disconnect the 77 connector and see if at idle the output is 14VDC. If not do a stator check. Check each field to ground on all 3 stator leads. If any show continuity to ground the stator is gone. This doesn't always mean the VR is bad if the stator goes south. My last VR was still good when the stator failed. | ||
| Mrsnuggles |
Wondering if I didn't prematurely replace my bat now. It's been sort of hard to start for quite some time, it'll crank like the bat is low, then fire right up. Would that point to the VR? And would continued abuse/ignorance of a bad VR cause a failed stator? I've had the bike since 06, and never needed a bat tender, but I need to go pick one up so I can keep up with the diag's. I can't even crank it right now. I have a bat charger for a car, but I don't think that the amps match up for the bike... Thanks for the help, will keep you posted as I'm able to progress. Between the service manual, and this forum, I should have this licked in no time.  (Message edited by mrsnuggles on September 15, 2009) | ||
| Mrsnuggles |
So, after being side tracked, I got back to the bike this afternoon... Something tells me I'm probably going about this the wrong direction - i tend to overcomplicated simple problems (ask the wife). I went the the SM tests for the stator because I wanted to eliminate the expensive fix first. It checks out at .5 on the ohm meter. So, it occurred to me to re-read the post... and now I'm thinking, yeah, it's the 77 connector. Where is this exactly? How can I test for failure here. Am I missing it in the SM? | ||
| Maximum |
Look under the front sprocket belt cover...it is the connector with two heavy gauge wires coming in and out. Pull it apart, if it is bad...you will know! | ||
| Mnrider |
Remove the front sprocket cover,its the large 2 wire connector. I cut out that connector and soldered the wires. | ||
| Ratbuell |
If you have the shop manual, it has wiring diagrams. Go to the one that has the charging system. The connectors are numbered on the chart. It's the one that says "77"  | ||
| Mrsnuggles |
Found it, but it looks just fine to me. http://screencast.com/t/moIvpe77 | ||
| Mrsnuggles |
so, assuming I'm doing these test correctly, I'm looking at the VR being faulty. AC Out tests ok (all 30 to 40 ACV) Stator .5 ohm Unfortunatly I don't have a load tester. I'm assuming this would tell me if my circuit is shorting out somewhere? (Message edited by mrsnuggles on September 16, 2009) | ||
| Rotorhead |
If you disconnect the 77 and check the leads to the VR while the bike is running you should get 14VDC at 2000 RPM. If you don't it is the VR. The output voltage on the stator is good. | ||
| Mrsnuggles |
voltage between the two pins coming out of the VR (77) reads 4.5 v. (If you pull Volts off the bat, sitting, 11.9v, running ~13.5 v) Problem identified. Are there conditions that can cause the VR to go bad, or is it just normal use that will make them hit EOL. (Message edited by mrsnuggles on September 16, 2009) | ||
| Tootal |
There is a third test for the stator. As mentioned, you need to see if any of the stator wires are grounded. Even if they are grounded the other test might be good but the stator is bad. This was my experience. | ||
| Froggy |
I can see the partly melted spot from here. | ||
| Froggy |
Here is one a little worse off than yours.  | ||
| Mrsnuggles |
I see what you mean. It looks like I'm on the way to looking something like that. For 70 cents, I think I'll make sure that is part of the repair. Is it pretty easy to swap out without cutting wires? Ordering a VR, a con 77, and a new belt (looks a little cracky). (Message edited by mrsnuggles on September 16, 2009) | ||
| Mrsnuggles |
I do have one more question... the SM says that if the output is greater than 14v, there is a problem with the VR (maybe I'm misreading this instruction), but doesn't mention if it's less than (ie. 4.5v as I saw on mine). So, is there an acceptable range, or is an output of 4.5v too low, and indicative of a bad VR? | ||
| Rotorhead |
The VR can fail to the no output side or the non regulated side and over charge the battery. I've had both happen. The over charge blows all your lights and some fuses. The most current P/N VR does come with the new improved connectors so don't get them seperate!! also take care to mark your wires and do the conector one wire at a time or you'll have to search around the KV to find out which lead of the VR is pos and neg. The VR wires are all black!?!?! | ||
| Mrsnuggles |
Looks like it's fixed now. I replaced the VR, which came with the updated 77 connector. I rode around for about an hour today, and I think it's charging just fine now. Thanks for the pointers. |
