| Author | Message | ||
     Mrsnuggles |
The guy at the dealership told me to put the same syn oil I use as in the power plant in the primary case. Is this ok, or should I be using different stuff? | ||
| Ratbuell |
I run Syn3 in the engine, and in the primary/transmission, of all my bikes. No issues at all. The HD stuff is formulated (and here comes the flame war, I'm sure...) to work in all locations - big twins can use it in all three holes as well. No stator damage, no gearset damage, good viscosity in the engines. | ||
| Tginnh |
I ran it all the way around at the 1k service interval. I switched to the HD tranny oil at the 10k interval because I am cheap. I still run the syn in the crankcase. | ||
| Jphish |
Any 20/50 formulated for motorcycles will work. I prefer synthetics & use AMS oil in both cavities. | ||
| Hooper |
While on the topic, how does one check the level of the lube in the primary case? I noticed that some had leaked from where the shifter enters the case cover and I want to make sure I'm at the right level. I opened the little hatch and everything looks nice and slippery in there, but just want to be sure. The leak is another story - that's something I'm going to need to check, but it has stopped. | ||
| Arcticktm |
Jphish - I take it you are not a believer of the HD warnings about some oils attacking the stator setup (which I assume means whatever epoxy/glue is holding the magnets on)? Hooper - remove the "hatch" with the 3 screws, and the oil should be just up to the bottom of the diaphragm spring (the black colored disc). This puts the oil level just contacting the clutch basket at the bottom. The manual has a good picture but I recall may have a part labeled wrong. Anyway, this check must be done with the bike level. Oil will (or should) spill out if you remove this cover while on the sidestand. I takes exactly 1 quart to fill up the primary after you have drained it all (again, with the bike level). I just replaced my shifter shaft oil seal last night. They are cheap and can be replaced easily without removing the primary case. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Articktm- only problems reported (here, not from HD) with the stator are from using GL-type gear oils in the primary. These oils have sulfur in them (hence the rank smell) and this is thought to cause the problem. I'm perfectly happy with Formula+ in mine. | ||
| Jphish |
I think Formula 1 is good stuff. In fact, not sure it isn't the best option for the tranny. I just like the convenience of 1 quality product that can do double duty. I have no idea if the caution/warning represents 'fact' or not - I'm suspect of such claims without a significant number experiencing similar problems. (like wheel bearings - plenty of prima facia evidence there) I've used AMS in all my vehicles for the past 10 years with no catastrophic results yet. I'm not religious about AMS (like some folks) And I'm not a dealer, just a user. With that admission...guess I'll be hearing from DEA soon. | ||
| Blake |
Formula plus is the only tranny lube that offers a 10,000 mile service interval, no? | ||
| Blake |
"the HD warnings about some oils attacking the stator setup" Never heard of that. | ||
| Tootal |
AMSOIL's gear lube is supposed to be one of the culprits on the stator issue. If you go to their website it recommends the engine oil in both holes. I have been doing this with no problems. Just stay away from the gear lubes and you'll be fine. I would recommend synthetics in the tranny though, just because of the shearing of the gears. That breaks down conventional oil much sooner. | ||
| Jphish |
The 10K mile mark can be safely reached by AMS (and other synthetics) as well. I just change it at 5K with the engine oil - takes 5 min & it's only a qt. I live in a cool moist climate most the year, and this is cheap insurance on the condensation problems associated with only running short trips and not getting it up to full operating temps for 30 mins or so. | ||
| Metalstorm |
Oh thank god this thread is about oil. I saw the thread title Lube recomendation from the dealer and I thought "Wow, that's pretty bold of them"  | ||
| Hooper |
Depends on the dealer. Some of those guys get pretty blue after you buy a couple bikes from 'em! | ||
| Idaho_buelly |
The 10K mile mark can be safely reached by AMS (and other synthetics) as well. I just change it at 5K with the engine oil - takes 5 min & it's only a qt. I live in a cool moist climate most the year, and this is cheap insurance on the condensation problems associated with only running short trips and not getting it up to full operating temps for 30 mins or so. +1 for me! |
