| Author | Message | ||
     Acav80 |
Hoping someone here can offer advice... Changing the brake fluid, started with the rear. I used a syringe and hose to suck the fluid out until it started to gurgle air, then filled the syringe with fresh fluid and slowly pumped it into the bleeder nipple until the level in the reservoir was correct. Closed bleeder valve. Pump, pump, pump, over and over and still can't get hydraulic pressure at the lever. Any tips? Did I f up? | ||
| Thumper74 |
You'll need to bleed the brakes with no pressire... It's super easy to do on these bikes. Google MityVac, you'll love it! | ||
| Mnrider |
Put a hose on the bleeder and the other end into a bottle,open the bleeder,push gently on the lever,close the bleeder,let up on the lever and repeat. No need to pump the lever. | ||
| Tginnh |
Mnrider has it. I did mine recently. It might help to have a 2nd set of hands. It's somewhat awkward to get to the bleeder and the brake. | ||
| Hughlysses |
I agree with Mnrider's process mostly. Once you get a very firm lever from this process, then leave the bleeder valve closed, and pump the lever 4 or 5 times. Keep it squeezed as tight as possible and crack the bleeder valve just for an instant. Repeat once or twice. This last step will get rid of all of the air and make for very solid feeling brakes. | ||
| Acav80 |
Did the bleed as described. Still have a floppy lever. I read something in KV about banjo bolts on the rear line that sometimes trap air and need to be loosened to release the air. Don't know what I'm looking at though. Is it the hex-nut fitting on the lever-to-caliper line? | ||
| Timberwolf211 |
Question about this. Has anyone thought to use one of those one man brake bleeder kits like they sell at Auto Zone? Or how about using a vaccum pump(hand style)? | ||
| Thumper74 |
Tap the caliper with a plastic screwdriver handle, then continue tapping the line up to the master cylinder, then tap the master cylinder and keep an eye on the resevoir. It may work some bubbles up to the resevoir If that doesn't work, go to AutoZone get some 3/16" rubber hose and find an old glass jar. Take the cap off. Get a wrench the appropriate size and use the box end. Slip the rubber hose onto the bleeder nipple. Pump the brake lever a few times and while holding the lever down, open the bleeder until the lever goes all the way down and BEFORE letting off the lever, close the bleeder. Top off the fluid and repeat until the fluid comes out clear like the new stuff. The trick is to never let the caliper or master cylinder go dry, that's when you get air bubbles. www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=39522 The banjo bolt is what connects the brake line to the caliper. It'll be a bolt that runs through an eyelet in the metal portion of the line. Theres a copper washer on the top and on the bottom to seal it due to the high pressure. It could trap air, but it's not the first thing I would try as it could introduce more air to the system... If you can't get it, I'll take a video tommorrow because I need to bleed my brakes anyway! Got a cell phone? I'll just send it to you! (Message edited by Thumper74 on May 15, 2009) | ||
| Hdbobwithabuell |
I've been using the phoenix injector for a couple of years to bleed EVERYTHING: http://www.phoenixsystem.com/products_by_type/brak e_bleeders/maxpro_brake_bleeder.htm I had the same problem on my wife's sportster after installing a new caliper and brake lines. Bled it first try with the phoenix tool. | ||
| Thumper74 |
A lot of techs have those, but I've got the less expensive Mity Vac which works great from problem brakes... www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Ite mnumber=39522 | ||
| Mnrider |
I have a phoenix injector too,works great. But you may have to take the caliper off without disconnecting the line and hold it up so the air goes in the caliper,then remount the caliper and do the bleed process again. | ||
| Acav80 |
I think I've pretty much got it. Maybe not as firm as if it were perfect, but it's got pressure and a test ride proved them to be lock-upable (the rear I mean). | ||
| Black_buelly |
I can't get my rear wheel to lock up at anytime. I thought it was not supposed to. Even after the 5k service the rear brake had always felt weak. The pedal is hard like it should be but can't lock up. Do i have air or maybe a bearing problem? | ||
| Thumper74 |
It seems to be hit or miss. A higher rear weight bias can play into it some. IE, I used to ride mountain bikes, so I intuitively shift my weight back to keep more traction on hard stops making it's harder to lock up. I can lock it up if I sit normally and practice my panic stops. | ||
| Hughlysses |
The Uly rear wheel is usually not easy to lock up (you pretty much have to TRY to lock it up), but you should be able to lock it up. If the pedal is hard it's not an air problem and rear wheel bearings would be causing other symptoms first. The rear brake gets better with use; if you're not in the habit of using it regularly the pads may not really be bedded in even after 5k miles. Go out and practice panic stops some time and see if it doesn't improve with use. (Message edited by hughlysses on May 15, 2009) | ||
| Froggy |
My bike will easily lock the rear brake. Not sure if the Lyndal pads and wave rotor have anything to do with it. | ||
| Acav80 |
I have EBC HH pads in the back...much stronger than stock. Can be a good thing or a bad thing depending on when and how hard you mash. Locking the rear is quite possible with these. |
