| Author | Message | ||
     Sanchez |
I took my Ulysses out on the highway last night, and it died on the road a couple of times. It was as if the ignition switched off and then rapidly back on, and the bike jerked as it bump started itself. The check engine light came on for a few seconds each time. Later today, I shut my bike off, and it wouldn't start back up. I flipped on the ignition, and the fuel pump primed for a second and then cut off before finishing. Subsequent cycling of the switch did nothing. I took the seat off, checked the connector to the fuel pump, and checked the fuses, which were all good. I gave the switch one last try before calling for a tow, and it started right up. On the way home, it hesitated again a couple of times on the highway. It never died again at low speeds, and again I couldn't reproduce the issue. I rode around all over the place running over speed bumps and accelerating and braking hard to see if it was a loose wire, but I can't find any action that causes it. I suspected the fuel pump since I just did some work on it, but the more I think about it, the less the symptoms sound like the pump. Could the fuel pump cause the die/restart that quickly? The bike ought to run a bit before dying even if the fuel pump loses power, right? The ignition switch itself should be fine, as I just installed it as part of the Buell heated grip kit a couple of thousand miles ago. Any ideas? | ||
| Hughlysses |
Sanchez- It might be one of the relays (next to the fuses in the fuse box). I'd try pulling them all (4) and reseating them. All 4 relays are the same configuration and are used on some fairly late-model Fords. You can pick up a replacement or spare at your local auto parts store for about $10. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
Sounds like the problem is with the fuel pump. Possibly the power to the pump and not the pump itself. Try this; jiggle the fuel pump connector (left side behind subframe) while the engine is running. Twist it around a little to see if it causes the problem. Mine did what you described on the way to work one morning and it was this connector. I took it all apart and gently bent all the tiny little prongs inside so that they made a more positive contact and have never had another issue with it. | ||
| Dirt |
Not saying this is your problem, but what you describe is very similar to what I experienced when my ECM failed. For a few days prior to complete failure the bike would sometimes refuse to start (fuel pump would not prime) while at other times it would start just like normal. When the bike did start, it ran normal for awhile but then experienced what you described, cycling on and off (jerking). Then, as if someone threw a switch, the bike would go back to running normal. After a few days of this, the bike simply wouldn't start. Turn the key and the headlight would come on, but no fuel pump prime. Can't remember if the check engine light stayed on all the time or whether it wouldn't come on at all. It was one or the other. Just a possibility. | ||
| Etennuly |
What year is that thing? My'06 just got healed up from a cam sensor wire worn through, similar symptoms but usually showed up when wet. It was cut through on the muffler bracket and if left a little longer it would have done it dry also. Check the "77" connector too. It also did that when the ground wires broke at the front of the steering head. It did that one other time when the dealer had it for a fan warranty. They didn't put my washers back under my battery bolts. It didn't make it across the parking lot before it quit. Since they were laying in the under seat tray, I went over to my truck for tools, put them back in and went on. About once a year I pull each fuse, one at at time just to give them a better chance at connecting. I also pull the relays and switch them around because they are all the same. | ||
| Sanchez |
> It might be one of the relays Ahh, interesting. Yanking the ignition relay exactly reproduces the symptoms I had when the bike wouldn't start. The fuel pump doesn't prime, and the bike turns over without starting. I just swapped the aux and ignition relays, and I'll see if the problem strikes again. | ||
| Thesmaz |
I have a similar problem from time to time but my bike will totally die. Turns out that the fix for me is to cycle the key and jiggle it a bit. Seems that I may have to use a bit of contact cleaner and check the connections under the fly screen. You may have a look at yours as well. | ||
| Sanchez |
Well, swapping the relay didn't help the problem. The bike conveniently wouldn't start in my garage yesterday after I got home from work, so I got to debug it a little more. Symptoms: when I turn on the kill switch, the check engine light does not come on, and the fuel pump does not prime. It's just like removing the ignition relay. I could hear the relay clicking when I activated the kill switch. I unplugged the fuel pump connect to see if it was getting power, and I noticed the CEL had returned. The problem had mysteriously vanished again. I don't know if it was related to unplugging the fuel pump, or if it just went away again like last time. After reconnecting the pump, the bike started normally. Next time, I'll do a quicker before/after unplugging the pump to see if I can directly correlate the two. I also swapped the relay again with a different one of the four just in case I have two bad ones, but that's a long shot. So what's the next step in the chain after the relay? | ||
| Rwven |
Have you checked your grounds yet? | ||
| Etennuly |
Yes, look for, find, and clean all grounds. Mine has had a glitch a couple of times related to wiggling the key, but it didn't cut out, it wouldn't come on. Turned the key on and nothing. Wiggled the key, all normal. It hasn't done it since in about 1500 miles. | ||
| Sanchez |
> Have you checked your grounds yet? Excellent idea. I spent some time with the service manual the wiring diagram last night. It looks like power hits the ECU from the relay via a gray wire. The ECU then signals the check engine light and the fuel pump. Possible problems: - Bad ground - ECU not receiving power from the relay (need to trace the gray wire and look for chafing) - Bad ECU (hopefully not the case) I'll clean the grounds tomorrow and see if that helps. Meanwhile, I have a volt meter in my luggage, and I'll try to get a reading off that gray wire if I can get the problem to show up again. | ||
| Sanchez |
Ok, I isolated the problem to the gray ignition wire leading into the ECU. When the kill switch doesn't do anything, I can bring the bike back to life just by wiggling that wire a bit. Interesting note: the seat definitely rubs that wiring bundle. Saturday the bike wouldn't start, and I got it going again simply by throwing my leg over the bike and sitting down. Dismantling the deutsch connector is pretty easy. I just need a new socket to crimp on to a replacement wire. For posterity, I found this on the ECMSpy website: - contact socket: 0462-201-16141 (Buell part number: 72191-94)  | ||
| Etennuly |
Cool. But you said.....douche! That is like saying Okra or Teflon.....I can't say it.  Oh wait.....I see that was Deutsch.....Never mind!  | ||
| Tootal |
DEUTSCH, You know, it's German for, well German! Ein Deutscher ist aus Deutschland! | ||
| Xbimmer |
Interesting note: the seat definitely rubs that wiring bundle. Have you got at least one of these blocks under your seat?  Mine came with one at the front and I cut down a second and added it to the rear of the ECM. The plastic seat pan can and will sag and press down on those connectors at the ECM, can cause stress problems. | ||
| Sanchez |
> Have you got at least one of these blocks under your seat? Nope, I sure don't. Anyone got a part number for that thing? I replaced the broken(?) wire tonight, and I hope it solves the problem. I am somewhat concerned that I cannot verify the break with my multitester, but we'll see how it goes. I'll post up some pictures of the repair when I get time. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Sancez, PM BadWebber Skinstains. I sold him my '06 Low seat and included the installation instruction sheet for that part. It may have the part number on it. That's the piece I used for my second one, but I sent him the sheet with a suggestion to order one if he didn't already have one on his Uly. Of course Froggy may pitch in here with the part number. | ||
| Froggy |
Actually that is one of the few part numbers I don't know and can't find. I would love to add it to the database. | ||
| Sanchez |
Pics: Here's the connector in question:  To get one of the connectors out, just pop the wedge out of the front with a screw driver:  With the wedge removed, you'll see each connector has a locking tab. Lift the tab with the screwdriver, and pull the wire out through the back of the rear of the connector.  The wire must be broken somewhere north of the point where it exits the wiring bundle, so I cut the tape back a couple of inches.  Soldered on the new wire, heat shrunk it, and taped everything back up:    Notice that yellow wire in the middle is worn through? I haven't looked it up to see what it does, but I taped that up as well. | ||
| Etennuly |
Not only that center yellow wire(to active muffler), but you need to at least tape that yellow with the green stripe(to ign relay) wire also. The bottom of the seat is plastic so you wouldn't think it would conduct, however they can build up and discharge static electricity. You definitely need the spacer blocks. My Uly had only one. When I ordered my '06 low seat new it came with one also. So I installed it on the other side. There were many threads about this problem at the end of '06. They might be able to be found in BBD archives. | ||
| Sanchez |
Replacing the ignition lead into the ECM did not solve the problem. The ignition continued to die, and I had to wiggle the entire bundle of wires to get it back. I borrowed another ECM last weekend, and that fixed it, so it appears the breakage was in the ECM side of the connector. |
