| Author | Message | ||
     Hangetsu |
I just returned from a several hundred mile road trip from Boulder, CO to Santa Fe, NM and back. The Uly ran beautifully the whole way; smooth and very stable despite high winds and a bit of snow and rain on the return trip home. The only annoyance was the friggen engine oil, an issue in 08 and later models that seems to be a hit and miss among different units. Anyway, my problem was this: Before hitting the road, I checked all the fluids and the engine oil seemed a bit low. I hadn’t checked it in a thousand miles of so, so I didn’t think it such an issue. The oil level was just to the first X on the stick; and yes, the engine was good and hot when I checked it. I added about three ounces and off I went. At one of the early gas stops I checked the oil again and the level was slightly above the “overfull” line - 3 oz’s to take it from barely toughing the stick to over full. However, I didn’t pay it much mind, because the level was ¼ inch over the “overfull” line when I brought it home from its 1000 mile service. It didn’t seem to hurt anything. After reaching Sante Fe plus a couple 100 or so mile day trips from the hotel, I gave the oil another look. The engine was fully hot with the bike was on level ground and the oil level showed about 2XX’s covered. I figured I was good for the ride back home. However, one morning on the way back when I started the bike in front of the hotel room, the oil light began to flicker and then it just stayed on, bright red. I shut the engine off and restarted it a couple of times, but no change. I thought if the oil is low enough to cause the light to come on, it must be really low. I immediately put in about three ounces; enough I figured to get the engine hot, get an accurate reading (is that possible on an 08 or later Uly?) and add what ever might be necessary. Well, after starting it up, the light did go out, but when I checked the level at a gas station up the road, expecting it to need a bit more, oil nearly covered the entire stick. I really don’t know what to make of this thing, but it’s an issue I will bring up with the dealer at my next service in about 400 miles. | ||
| Blake |
Low idle will trip the oil pressure light. If it was fine when it was last running, run the idle up just a little; the oil light should blink off. Sounds to me like your Uly doesn't use much oil, a good thing.  | ||
| Hughlysses |
Blake- it's an 08; there's no manual idle adjustment. The varying oil level is kind of annoying, but doesn't sound like a real problem. The oil light being reluctant to go off is a little worrying. We've seen that happen on bikes that have been dropped (air gets in the system and oil light can come on or flicker until the air is all purged). Any chance your bike got knocked over before you cranked it? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
My 2008 is odd too. The oil light doesn't turn off right way when I start it up. The book says to put 2.5 quarts in it for an oil change. When I do, (adding oil to the filter like I always have) I run the bike to let it settle in and turn it off to check the oil. The oil is right in the middle of the happy place. I can then take a couple of hundred mile trips and check it again and it's a half quart low. I'll feed it the other half a quart and it will be happy with no further consumption. I brought it in for a gasket job under warranty and the shop overfilled my tank bad enough to slop right out onto my garage. I gave them a hard time about it but perhaps the dipstick lied to them? | ||
| Nobuell |
My 08 oil level is inconsistent but I did not record the level at the last oil change and do not have a point of reference. I just performed the 5,000 mile service and put in 2.5 quarts of oil. I checked the oil when hot and it was at the 2X mark. I now have a point of reference I can compare to. When I return from vacation, I will check daily to see if I can determine a trend. | ||
| Nvr2old |
The varying oil level is kind of annoying, but doesn't sound like a real problem. Seriously? Come on, it's a real problem. | ||
| Hughlysses |
What I mean is the engine doesn't seem to actually be using oil and doesn't seem to have suffered any damage. Even the earlier XB's are kind of inconsistent about oil readings; you just have to develop a comfort level with not expecting the oil level to always show at the top of the operating range. | ||
| Nvr2old |
Not sure it's true, but I've always understood that if oil light comes on, it's too late, damage is done. That's why I've always checked oil regularly in all my vehicles. This one is the first one I've ever seen giving inconsistent readings. I guess since it's new, I've got 2 years to develop a comfort level. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Sure am glad I have the 06'. New and improved my a.ss. Sometimes changing things for changes sake is fool hardy. An oil level reading problem is just such a basic thing that should have been noticed and sorted out by the Buell testers and engineers. Kind of disappointing. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Nvr2old- I think that's a fair statement in engines with bearing inserts like most other motorcycles and car engines. They rely on a film of oil under high pressure to prevent metal-to-metal contact between the crankshaft and the bearings. Buells and Harleys use roller bearings on the crankshaft and rods and the oil system operates at significantly lower pressure than a typical insert bearing engine. I'd bet you could operate one of these engines with low oil pressure for a significant time without causing any damage. Of course, you still need the oil thrown off of the rod bearing to lubricate the cylinder walls. I just think their tolerance for low oil pressure is much better than a bearing insert engine. | ||
| Arcticktm |
If the oil light comes on for a false reason, then certainly no damage is done (say a lower than expected idle, though the engines I used to calibrate always used a table of RPM vs minimum pressure to trip the light). I have owned many dry sump engines (KTM's, Honda's and Buell), and they sometimes suffer from inconsistent oil level readings compared to wet sump engines. Best procedure is to be religious about always checking it exactly the same way. - similar engine temp - same amount of idle time before shut off - same amount of wait time before checking oil - bike in same level spot of pavement - bike in same spot on sidestand (pulled all the way backward on the sidestand) - make sure to screw in dipstick and wait a couple seconds before removing it Kind of a pain, but seems to be the nature of some of these beasts. | ||
| Choyashi |
I'll bet Buell did what Suzuki did to the Bandit 1200! My 2002 Bandit had an oil consumption problem because they increased the size of the oil passage under the rings to improve oiling of the cylinder walls because people were burning up the motors. My '08 Uly uses oil just like my Bandit! Nothing you can see out the exhaust but burning oil just the same. Bandit owners had to fight with the dealers and Suzuki to get new pistons and rings, but they admitted it was a problem in some bikes! It was even manufacturing date specific! | ||
| Mnrider |
The XT600 I bought new in 92 was dry sump with oil in the frame,confusing to get an oil level reading.When I did get it figured out it was a Qt low from new,Yes I gave the tech a hard time. | ||
| Keith_mahoney |
My main problem with this is how am I supposed to drain the oil for a change if it leaves the swing arm immediately after shut down. My bike sprays all the extra oil into the air box until it's down to the word "add" on the dip stick. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Not sure about the XB's, but on the tubers there was a hex plug at the bottom of the crankcase that could be removed to drain the engine completely. That would be one work-around. OTOH that's obviously not "normal" even for an 08. What's the dealer say about it? | ||
| Nobuell |
When I changed oil on Sunday. I set everything up to quickly pull the plug. I warmed up the engine and immediately pulled the drain plug after shutting down the motor. I did not measure the oil, but it appeared to completely drain. I did not think to measure it until after I dumped the tranny oil. Just be quick with the drain plug. | ||
| Nvr2old |
I'll be getting 1000 mile service done soon. When I pick it up, I'll ride it for 10 minutes, as per the service manual, return to dealer, and measure oil. If it's overfilled, they can remove excess. If nothing on dipstick they can add oil. Then, ride 10 minutes, return to dealer, measure oil....... I think it's the only way to prove what's happening. If you just tell them what's happening, they may think you're crazier that a couple gays trying to get married in Iowa. Oh wait, that can actually happen now. | ||
| Bertotti |
Funny but it is correct to always check the oil the same way. The only sticker in the mud is once in awhile something goofy just happens. I put my bike up for the winter, took it out fired it up checked oil after a god warm up just like always and there was nothing on the stick. I put in half a small just then it was high. So I rode it and it settled in just at 2 x marks. I still have no idea how half a quart of oil just disappeared over winter but I really don't care, she is running good and a tun of fun! | ||
| Methed |
>I still have no idea how half a quart of oil just disappeared over winter... beats the alternative--when i had the sporty, whilst checking the bike over in the spring before riding, i'd of course check the oil; unfortunately it always read higher than when putting it away. the oil would drain from the lube system into the oil tank. isn't the end of the world, it just means that a lot of parts that haven't moved in months will start mashing together without any oil until the blood gets flowing again. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Synthetic oil supposedly clings to the metal parts more so than plain jane oil. That in itself is worth the price of admission. | ||
| Nvr2old |
I'm getting weak.  | ||
| Tootal |
I know on a Harley they have a check valve in the line pumping to the tank. Sometimes this check valve would not seal and you would end up filling your crankcase up. When you went to start it oil would blow out the breather all over the floor! The fix was to take a punch and hammer. Open the cap and remove the spring over the ball and smack the ball which would shape the seat better. Pull the ball out with a magnet and replace it with a new one. This would usually cure the problem until you let it sit all winter. First day of spring and your cleaning oil off the floor again!!  I would imagine some of the check valves are not seating and causing the strange readings. Like was said before, shut the hot bike off and immediately check the dip stick before any oil escapes the tank. I concur on the 2X reading. (Message edited by tootal on April 08, 2009) | ||
| Bertotti |
My routine is to heat her up then check it after the fan shuts off. | ||
| Tginnh |
All this discussion about oil levels and consumption is alarming. I'm of the mind (foolishly?) that a relatively new motor that shows no signs of oil leaking or burning should require such close attention to the oil level. What gives here? Am I naive or just lazy? Ok, I'm lazy, but seriously, one of the benefits of owning/riding a modern motorcycle is/should be not having to deal with the idiosyncrasies of a particular make/model when it comes to basic maintenance items. Is this an aberration, or something that a lot of Buell oweners encounter? I'd still be riding vintage british iron if I was into a 100 point inspection every time I took the bike for a spin. I'm going to check my oil level next time I ride...if I remember. | ||
| Jphish |
Just did a 100mi ride. Shut down and measured oil. Checked at 10 - 20 - 30 & 60 second then 5 min interval. From 10 - 60 sec it didn't change - was 1/4" up dipstick - no where near the 2XXs (covering the 2nd X on dipstick) At 5 mins it was off the dip stick entirely. Only had to add 2.5 oz (less than 100ml) to get it to the 2XX point. Restarted for 2-3 mins - shut down and checked @ 60 sec - still at the 2XX. It apparently doesnt require much to get the oil volume back in line. When I run it at the full mark - get oil in the airbox. | ||
| Invisible_monster |
I have a similar issue with my '08 Uly XT. Seems like every couple hundred miles I have to add oil. I tracked it for the first 5000 miles and it appeared I was using 1oz of oil every 60 miles. My local dealership has checked the compression, done a leakdown test, checked the spark plugs for fouling, checked for rocker box leak among other things. I do get some oil in the airbox but not enough to account for the amount I'm having to add. Currently they are doing an oil usage study where they check my oil for 1000 miles and evaluate usage. I have tried some of the 'oil checking' techniques posted here and on ADVrider with limited success. It is disappointing to have this situation with a new bike. I do feel though that my dealer is taking this seriously. We'll see what happens this year as the weather warms up and I start putting on more miles. | ||
| Choyashi |
I think the new race oil pump on the '08's is the problem. It is pushing high pressure oil past the rings and out of the engine!  | ||
| Hangetsu |
Well, my problem doesn't seem to be oil loss. If the oil is low enough to make the light come on, that's got to be a huge loss. However, on that occasion I only added a few ounces before I did a recheck after warming the engine. When I checked it that time, the level was over the "over filled" line. The problem doesn't seem to be oil loss, rather inconsistency in where the oil seems to linger and for how long. | ||
| Blake |
A site glass sure would be nice. My new Uly has been rock steady on oil over the first 1,000 miles. The new oiling system is a HUGE improvement. No more failure prone oil pump drive gear! | ||
| Hangetsu |
I preferred the days when bikes has no friggen oil light. Just check the stick and if it's wet, go and not worry about it. If these things do have little non-threatening, non-damaging quirks that cause the light to go on, all it does is make my sphincter tighten and me wonder when my engine's going to seize. |
