| Author | Message | ||
     Lost_in_ohio |
Soo, are you sure hanging the ballast below the fly screen is ok?????? I am not real confident about the seal on the ballast. But what the heck they were cheap. | ||
| Desert_bird |
I think most of these cheap ballasts come from the same mother factory. They are all sealed up pretty well. I opened one up and saw that entire electronic unit is basically dipped in a thick and clear hard resin which totally seals the unit. Looks like a modern version of a electronic fossil trapped in some sort of petro-amber. In any case the fly screen hangs down to completely cover the unit. Ultimately, anything behind the screen is exposed to water from the sides and behind the screen so I don't think it would make a difference anyhow. And finally, like you said, they are cheap and they make night driving SO much nicer and brighter. | ||
| Midknyte |
Desert_bird, I wouldn't worry about it. The huge initial charge is brief; I really doubt it will cause any damage. Not small enough or brief enough... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/389397.html?1220450775 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/391936.html?1220687707  | ||
| Slowride |
So I have been thinking about this for several weeks. I was an Avionics Engineer(6324)in the Marines and have seen this type of connector issues before. They all were created when the to halves of the connectors were loosely seated or if there was dissimilar pin sizes between the connectors. we resolved most of these issues by infusing both connectors with Dielectric grease and then safety wiring the connectors to ensure they were seated. The picture above looks like an arching scenario from a loose connection. If it was an over charge or surge the wires themselves would be melted from the heat, not just at the connector. Has anyone infused these connectors with Dielectric grease and then applied heat shrink to the actual connector to seal the link and stop any movement within the two sides. I ask because, I have the HID's sitting in the garage waiting the outcome of these discussions, before I mount them up. | ||
| Johnboy777 |
If the initial surge is not enough to blow a fuse, it isn't enough to hurt anything. Connectors, whether through improper seating, or manufacture can go bad, that is not related to the HID's initial current draw (inflow). I use dielectric grease on everything - I even have a tube of it on our bedroom nightstand. . | ||
| Reepicheep |
Nice description SlowRide... Did you connect the connectors, then infuse them? Or infuse them then connect them? I always wondered how to do it right... | ||
| Court |
>>>I have the HID's sitting in the garage waiting the outcome of these discussions, before I mount them up. So do I. I've have a new set of H.I.D and a pair of H7 PIAA Extreme Whites sitting here. I'm doing nothing till you guys sort this out . . .now get with it.  | ||
| Slowride |
Reep... We used syringes with white dielectric grease and filled each pin gap with the grease until in overflowed on each halve of the connector. Keep in mind these were Cannon Plugs (screw together type). So when we mated the two halves and twisted them tight, the grease would come out of the plugs. We would wipe them clean and then heat shrink the entire plug. Johnboy777, I agree with you and that is what has been working on me for 2 weeks. If there is not enough load to cause a blown fuse or melted wires, the connector issue has to be an arching scenario. Court, I will install mine tonight and follow my own best practices and see how it works. Ya know, come to think of it... this would also apply to the dreaded 77 connector issue as well. | ||
| Midknyte |
Even if you do not believe that the relayed harness is needed, consider the gamble - A half hour to an hour and $10 to $25 more to the cost of your lights install as opposed to ride time lost to diagnosis and upwards of $300+ and labor for a new main harness. I consider myself lucky that the connector that failed was one that I could replace myself and was not further up stream... | ||
| Jlnance |
I use dielectric grease on everything - I even have a tube of it on our bedroom nightstand. I didn't need to know that. | ||
| Slowride |
Midknyte, Current theory basically what we are talking about it using the factory wiring harness to power a relay. The relay runs between a direct battery connection (fused) and the ballast. This way the factory harness is only powering a tiny relay load, vs. the entire lighting load. Based on my theory (experience) if you use the same connector that came with the HID kit and plug it in down line of a relay, you will get the same arching. What am I missing? | ||
| Choyashi |
I just bought "Siverstars" for $20 each. They are a great improvement, and no worries about anything! | ||
| Chasten |
so, i ordered some of those also, but they appear to have fairly large ballasts even though the ad copy says "smallest ballasts available"... can someone who has received an order confirm the size of those units? they aren't really the "slim" ballasts, are they? | ||
| Rotorhead |
I got both to fit with the stock horn. Little bend here and there on the bracket and presto!! I have my GPS wires and my Poly grip heater wires in there too. Some Army avionics guys showed me how to pack the wires in small places. Still room for the air to flow from the front up around and out the back. Sorry about the rez on the pic phone cam sucks.  | ||
| Mikef5000 |
They are not the 'slim' ballasts, they are standard. And the silverstars are a nice improvement over stock, but not half the improvement of HID lighting. I will be using a relay on mine. The less than half and hour and $10 now, is worth it in my mind compared to what could happen. | ||
| Jerseyguy |
I put the HID light in my XB's high beam. I used the 4300 temperature light. I'll have to relocate the horn to fit the second ballast in so I can run the HID in the low beam too. Piece of cake install. Some say you need a extra relay (I saw the pic). Both my EE's say not needed if all the connections are solid.   | ||
| Red_chili |
Ya know, come to think of it... this would also apply to the dreaded 77 connector issue as well. It absolutely would. I did not have any failures, but had some flaky voltage readings on the last trip. Using dielectric grease after a good cleaning resolved that. I have little doubt that mine were the first symptoms of an impending failure. Hey Court, does BMC read these things and maybe put out service bulletins on them? Or consider production changes? Dielectric grease, James O-rings, and SKF bearings seem like really cheap solutions to some nagging issues. | ||
| Jerseyguy |
In my opinion Buell has used the wrong type of plug for a possibly wet environment. I know they cost more, but the sealed type connectors seem much more appropriate in this application. The HID supplier has used them on all its connections. | ||
| Johnboy777 |
Money! Bearings, connectors, etc., are shopped by price, first. "...what will do the job, and what can we get the price-point to from the supplier, for any given application." I'm not saying its a bad thing - manufacturers need to control cost and operate at a profit to keep the doors open and perpetuate the whole process. Except for bridge engineers, and the like, why would anyone over-build anything, or make it stronger (and pricier) than necessary. Part of the ongoing motorcycling experience, from my perspective at least, is to find the weak links in our bikes and fix or beef 'em up. All motorcycle are maintenance intensive animals - change brands and you simply change the problems you encounter. Boy this sounds like BS.  . | ||
| Froggy |
This is why you over engineer: | ||
| Chasten |
so i emailed the VVME guys about their product description not being particularly accurate ("smallest ballast of any kit available")... they said that they have the slim ballasts in stock and that they are available as a $30 upgrade. so between that and the shipping and the surcharge for the color temp i wanted (+$15) i still feel like i got a pretty good deal (both bulbs for ~$110 delivered). they really didn't seem to see my point about the misleading product description, though... | ||
| Lost_in_ohio |
geez dude your criticism is ridiculous. The kit is insanely cheap the service is prompt delivery charges were reasonable. You probably would be happier buying it from Aerostich for much more $$$$$$. Just looking at it you know the stuff is a couple of generations old, as far as the engineering goes. You know, I am ok with it, much more light for less than buying a couple of silverstars. Ease up | ||
| Chasten |
my only criticism was for the inaccurate description of the product... obviously, it's still a good deal; i was just pointing out that it's not really just $40 and change. | ||
| Court |
>>>>Bearings, connectors, etc., are shopped by price, first. That, with respect to Buell, would be inaccurate. We've had discussions before and talked about Buell's vendor procurement criteria. This type of information is good but it can get really tough to wade through. Read the opening volley in the "WTF" thread about the turn signals. 5 sentences of outlandish rant with not a single actionable fact. It frustrates me because I like to help. When someone goes off on a rant without facts it makes it frustrating. I'm enjoying this thread as I'm getting ready to "re-light" my new Buell. I've actually purchased several different set ups and am going to try a couple of different things. I've engaged the help of an anal retentive assistant (Henrik) with whom I am having lunch today to discuss. I'm going to provide all the goodies and he's going to work on the planning and installation. Nothing like having a meticulous (damn near to a fault) surgeon do the install. I bought one set of the VMW. The company "looks" like it is in Delaware but the moment I placed my order (literally with 2 minutes) at 11:00pm at night I got a response asking me a question about temp and lamp configuration. I replied around midnight and got a shipping confirmation within minutes. Two days later a package arrives from Beijing, Peoples Republic of China. Still hasn't been opened but from what Steve has posted it looks like good stuff. Also picked up a pair of PIAA H7 Extreme Whites and a pair of the Aerostich H.I.D. We'll sort this out and I'm getting lots of ideas for how to treat the connections and circuitry . . . I'm going for bright AND reliable. | ||
| Sanchez |
I'd like to mount those on my GME bar. Any recommendations for inexpensive pods to put them in? | ||
| Buelldualsport |
Court: Please keep us updated on your progress Thanks Buells to Alaska ALCAN 5000 2010 | ||
| Buelldualsport |
Dielectric Grease We (NASCAR TYPES) also fill the connectors full of dielectric grease and then either safety wire or zip tye the connectors together. Additionally, we tend to use Mil Spec connectors (deutsch, Cannon, Autosport, Lemo and etc) almost to a fault, however, these electrical system to us is mission critical. Please keep the input flowing. Thanks tom | ||
| Slowride |
Btw Froggy, I know it hasn't been said.... but FANTASTIC video of the old Merc. I wished more cars were built that way. | ||
| Froggy |
There is a longer 3 part video of it on you tube. They even dynamite it | ||
| Lost_in_ohio |
Well finally got mine installed today, all I have to say is wow. A question about aiming. Now I did the 25 foot from the wall and three foot. Even with that I still light up street signs 1/2 mile or better away. Is that what you guys are seeing????? I have not got flashed by other cars but OMG, See wild life eyes on the side of the rode. Impressive. |
