| Author | Message | ||
     Portero72 |
Just got mine in today-5 days to my door from Beijing. I just wish I had my Uly so I could install them! Quick question for those who have these already-did anyone use a relay? I see there are provisions for one in the instructions, but none included. BTW, some of the instructions would be perfect displays on Engrish.com | ||
| Florida_lime |
did anyone use a relay? I see there are provisions for one in the instructions, but none included Some people don't, but I'd recommend one. I've got 2 tucked in up front under the cowl - one for the HID and PIAA 510 fog, and the other for the PIAA 510 driving light tied to the 65W Osram high beam. | ||
| Sweatmark |
Just ordered mine. Call it a "China Olympics" celebration. | ||
| Safri |
Just ordered mine from VVME . I live in South Africa and I payed the same delivery cost as for you guys. For this price it is worth trying them out. | ||
| Wbrisett |
I had an H7 HID kit laying around from my BMW RT, so I decided this weekend to put it on the Uly. I took the bike out after dark and all I can say is, I can't believe I waited this long to put that extra HID kit on the Ulysses. Makes a world of difference. I highly recommend this upgrade to everybody. Wayne | ||
| Red_chili |
Question about the relay: the HID system is supposed to use less current than the existing headlights, no? What would dictate using a relay then? Not that it would hurt anything to do so... | ||
| Darthane |
The ballasts in HID systems have a high startup and 'warmup' draw compared to a bulb. While it might settle out to only an amp or two of steady state current, it is likely spiking closer to 20A and then holding 10A for 10-15s before slowly declining to it's steady-state current over the course of 30s or so. By comparison, a bulb's inrush, while high, is generally only milliseconds long. | ||
| Red_chili |
Ah. Makes perfect sense, thank you. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Just got my two kits today. One for the bike, and one for the car. To bad everything's more difficult than it should be. The bike needs to be Bi-xenon to run low and high off of one bulb (tuber), which makes adding a timer and relay a PITA! And the car will automatically think the bulb is burned out and throw up all kinds of warning lights, so I need to make resistors. ARG! | ||
| Midnightrider |
After reading all the entries in this thread I ordered a set. Someone (above) talks about putting the HID lights on a switch and not putting power to the HID system until after the bike is up and running. I only plan to put HID into the low beam side on my Uly. Instead of installing a switch, is there any reason (electrically) I couldn't just switch on the high beam before starting the bike and then switch back to low once the bike is running? | ||
| Mikef5000 |
That will work fine as long as you don't have it wired so both low and high are on at the same time whenever your highs are on. | ||
| Midnightrider |
Thanks Mike I actually did have them wired that way but put it back to the OEM configuration when I added a set of PIAAs to a Ulytility bracket. The PIAAs work great but I see a significant dip on the voltmeter when I fire up the PIAAs | ||
| Odie |
I have my 12Scg wired for both light on when in the high position. My HID is my low and stock halogen is my high. Haven't had any issues at all. Only been running them for 3 weeks or so. All the harness connections are stock. | ||
| Portero72 |
Odie- Did you wire them in using a relay? I'm waiting to get my bike back, but as soon as I do these are going in(after RE-break in, of course). I also have my bike wired both lights on with the high beam. THX | ||
| Red_chili |
Seems like if you used relays and wanted to keep the both-on mod, you could undo the mod, pick the relays with the OEM bulb sockets, and for the high beam use a double pole relay and light both lights when high is on. 'Twould get a bit crowded behind the flyscreen... | ||
| Odie |
No relay used. I have one here but didn't have time to wire it in when I did the install. I will wire it in eventually to preclude any issues as I ride home in the dark from work. The relay is the high inrush one from Al @American Sport Bike. Should work fine I would think. | ||
| Wbrisett |
Do people really feel the need for the relay? I wired my HID without a relay -- the same way it's wired into my BMW RT, which has been like that for nearly 4 years now. I looked at the wiring diagrams in the service manual and really didn't think the relay was necessary. I'm just curious why others feel they need the relay, or is it more just "cheap insurance"? Wayne | ||
| Lost_in_ohio |
You need the relay....there was a thread showing a jacked up wire harness because of HID. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/389397.html?1219632841 The ignition current is 10 amps or so, now granted that is only for a split second but it will do cumulative damage. Please check the quick board there is a great thread over there about this sort of thing. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
I just installed a set in my car and a buddies car, both bought from this "sale". Went with 4300k, and our headlights were projection to begin with, so despite converting from Halogen to HID bulbs, we still have the crisp cutoff. They look great, and are bright as HELL! I was making shadow puppets on the side of my house yesterday afternoon in broad daylight! Can't wait to get them installed on the bike! | ||
| Odyranger |
Wow - I installed one of these for my low beam and can't believe the difference! I left the high beam alone and it looks orange next to the HID light (6000K). On the way to work today I pulled up behind a car at a light. There was a glare coming off of the trunk - it was my new light! First time I've seen that. I'm looking forward to testing it out at night. I plan on adding a relay (hopefully soon) to avoid any problems. | ||
| Svh |
just ordered a set. Why do quite a few Badwebbers only put them on the low beam? I was planning on putting them in both with seperate relays. The ballasts and relays fit behind the flyscreen? Saw a pic on here earlier and it looks like it can be done. This won't hamper my warranty will it? Thanks in advance for help. | ||
| Tipsymcstagger |
Why do quite a few Badwebbers only put them on the low beam? I have them on both the low and high. Just be aware that HID ballasts don't really like to be cycled (on and off) so it's not really recommended to use your flash-to-pass switch excessively. But I've also read that these newer digital ballasts are less sensitive to cycling issues than the older ballasts. Also be aware it take about 10 seconds for an HID to warm up and reach maximum light output. So don't expect instant effect when switching your high beam on. That said, the low beam puts out plenty of light and the Piaa's can be switched on instantly if necessary, so these things haven't been an issue. Tipsy | ||
| Florida_lime |
I only did the low beam for the reasons that Tipsy gave, but I switched out the stock H7 bulb for a 65W Osram one. My low beam is on all the time, so once it has warmed up in a few seconds, it's good to go. PIAA 510s also, but fog tied to the low, and driving tied to the high beam. All in on high !  | ||
| Desert_bird |
Hey there. Caught me in a little Santa Cruz cafe in the middle of a 5000 mile trip from New Mexico to Montana and back. I did the HID conversion and have been loving it. I throw more light to the ground than most cars around. . . . But I would be eating my words if my low beam were to suddenly fry itself on the road. Can someone provide a brief tutorial on what exactly an "auxiliary harness to the battery"/relay would consist of, so I can look into doing this before I hit the road again in several days? I assume that I can keep the high beam on the main harness? Thanks. | ||
| Jlnance |
Why do quite a few Badwebbers only put them on the low beam? HID lights don't like to be switched on and off. It's bad for bulb life. By wiring them up as low beams, you have the option of: 1 - Never running high beames 2 - Wiring so low does not go off with high either of which will reduce the number of times you turn off the bulb. | ||
| Johnboy777 |
Has anyone used HID's in driving lights such as Hella FF50's, or the like.  . | ||
| Svh |
Well that makes sense. I will have to do some searching on how to make the low and high stay on together on high then. Thank you | ||
| Lost_in_ohio |
Svh ask and you will receive the yellow wire mod. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/219506.html | ||
| Tipsymcstagger |
Can someone provide a brief tutorial on what exactly an "auxiliary harness to the battery"/relay would consist of I will have to do some searching on how to make the low and high stay on together on high then. It's best to install an auxiliary fuse block powered directly from the battery. I'm using the Centech AP-1 but I've used the Blue Sea 5025 in the past. You then run a dedicated lead from the fuse block up to the relay installed under the fly screen. I use 20 AMP Matsushita relays purchased from Eastern Beaver. The relay will have four wires: (1) The hot input from the battery/auxiliary fuse block (2) Ground (3) A switched source. In the case of the low beam, the switched source will be the hot lead from the factory harness that was originally connected to the stock headlight connector/socket. Or, if you want to do the "always on mod" you can take this opportunity to switch the low beam relay with the power lead from the Euro light socket. The high beam relay would be switched by the power lead from the factory high beam connector/socket. (4) The output to the HID ballast (or back to the stock H7 connector/socket if you were simply rewiring the stock headlight through the relay). A relay is nothing more than a remote switch. In effect, what you're doing is using the factory headlight harness to activate the relay. The relay itself now handles all of the current that its consumer is using rather than the stock harness. In other words, the power for the consumer (headlight) goes directly from the battery (or auxiliary fuse block) through the relay and to the consumer. The factory harness is now tasked with nothing more than simply operating the "switch" (the relay). This prevents the factory harness from becoming over taxed, among other things. Tipsy | ||
| Svh |
Thank you Lost in Ohio. Much appreciated. I like this board almost as much as my Uly |
