| Author | Message | ||
     Jphish |
About ready for the first tire change (5500 mi on the Syncs) without stands - just a jack & tiedowns. Trying Distanzias for a little more dirt grip for the run to Death valley (my wife thinks thats an unfortunate name for a destination on a motorcycle)...we'll see how they hold up. Anyway - from previous threads understand the 'first' time axle removal can be a challenge. Plan to also check the rear bearing grease & rub a little in for good measure. QUESTION : 1)Is mobil 1 synthetic bearing grease compatible with whats already in there ? 2) Antiseize for the axle - can you use the Mobil 1 instead ? or not a good idea ? Anything else I should be checking/changing or looking at while I'm already on a slippery slope?? Thanks Folks! | ||
| Xbimmer |
1)Is mobil 1 synthetic bearing grease compatible with whats already in there ? Can't answer that, my fronts/rears had two different greases in there. Been regreasing my wheel bearings for +20k, 50k on them now and still good (knock wood..). Been using Lucas Red'n'Tacky grease with good results. DON'T overgrease them! It will spew forth from the seals. Make sure you work clean clean clean while doing it and be very careful with the seals, they're fragile and bend easily. 2) Antiseize for the axle - can you use the Mobil 1 instead ? or not a good idea ? I'm not the expert but I wouldn't use grease as an antiseize agent. Different compounds for different purposes. Especially where steel meets the aluminum. Also I've found the copper-type antiseize sucks in the axle area. Good for spark plugs and contact points but use the good old silver stuff (I like Permatex brand) and don't be afraid to smooth it on thoroughly. Anything else I should be checking/changing or looking at while I'm already on a slippery slope?? Not a slippery slope IMHO, and you have BadWeB to help.  Be careful with how you handle the belt, and inspect it carefully while the wheel is off. You don't need to remove the idler pulley, the broken-in belt will slide away fine. My first axle removal was no issue at all. Just remember the pinch bolt under the right side of the swingarm, I've heard sometimes it's overlooked. | ||
| Jphish |
Thanks Xbimmer - Will grab some Permatex antiseize for liberal axle application. The Mobil 1 is Red & pretty tacky...so at least I've got the right color. 'chow' j | ||
| Red_chili |
I've not been happy with Mobil1 grease in automotive applications. Seems to separate easily, and wheel bearings did not last as long. Valvoline Moly-disulphide wheel bearing grease is my fav, YMMV. | ||
| Etennuly |
When you pull the axle it is not unusual to see some moisture on the axle causing some white fuzzy action. It will clean right off with sand paper. Look closely at the bearings for rust and moisture intrusion. If the bearing shows any rust in there, it is time to replace them. Leave some air space in the bearing or it can push the seal out when the grease warms up. The anti-sieze will stay pretty much where you put it. If you coat everything inside with grease it will seep and creep out. I usually put a thin coat of the anti-sieze on the outside of the bearing seal to help waterproof it. Use the correct method and specs for torquing the axle. Over tightening is easy to do and bad for the bearings and spacer. | ||
| Buelltoys |
Since we are talking about wheel bearings, can someone just name the size of the bearings? Is it 6005 front and 6006 rear? | ||
| Arcticktm |
Yes. Sealed on both sides. | ||
| Jphish |
Thanks for the tutorial folks - good suggestions. I plan to be "vewy vewy" (bad Elmer Fudd impression) careful when picking out seals. I'm not overly 'Ham fisted' but just in case - is there a place to get just the seals if the bearings are OK ? If not -Got a new set of bearings on hand in the emergency kit from Al @ American Sport Bike. | ||
| Etennuly |
Just use a big safety pin to pick them out. They are quite rubbery an you won't hurt them with that. | ||
| Jphish |
Thanks Etennuly - Have a good supply of 'em left over from my grandaughter. Also understand a small jewlers screwdriver works. | ||
| Xbimmer |
... but just in case - is there a place to get just the seals if the bearings are OK ? I posted that I tried that several months ago through Applied. The sales guy was more than willing to help me (us) out but the prices and volumes to order were pretty high for the one interested response I got here. The $5 per seal wasn't so bad but I didn't want to get stuck with 90 I would never need... Oh well. I use a flat and curved dental pick. Make sure you thoroughly clean the seal and area around it, there WILL be grit and crap where the seal lips contact the inner race on the outside. I wipe them down with a soft cloth then go over the seal thoroughly with a lightly greased swab to pick up the remnants. Work the extractor tool of your choice carefully around the inner race so you don't bend the metal in the seal or pierce the rubber. Just take your time, you'll be fine. | ||
| Jphish |
Xbimmer - Yes...patience is a virtue in such matters. Thanks for the reminder on that & the dental tool tip. So I suppose we'd need 20 or so participants to make a 90 seal order work. If it ever comes to pass - count me in for 4. Got my riding partners tire changer and garage reserved for next Wed afternoon. He's a popular guy among the 1200GS crowd - has every tool & spare part known to mankind...and some that probably aint. I'm the only Buell rider among them, but some of them actually kinda give a begrudging nod to the iconic Uly - thinking of taking it to the next NW BMW rally... a coyote among wolves. Cheers, j |
