| Author | Message | ||
     Mark_weiss |
I took my header off last night in order to drop it at Jet Hot for ceramic coating. Engine rotation was fairly routine. Followed the directions, lots of stuff to do. Some stuff that really did not have to be disconnected. About 2 hours, no surprises. How come no one ever mentioned how incredibly difficult it would be to slip the rear cylinder's exhaust flange off of the studs????? That little operation took over an additional hour! The front dropped right off and it looked like the pip would rotate right off of the engine. Then.....the rear flange interfered. What an ABSOLUTE pain! As the flange slid down the studs, it would hit the top of the rear cylinder and get stuck. I could find no intuitive way to get the thing to move. Wiggling, jiggling, changing angles, etc. Nothing seemed to help. In the end, I am really not sure exactly how the darned thing slipped off. Just that it did. Just to confirm that I was not totally incompetent, I tried slipping the flange back on, without the header in the way. The flange WILL NOT slip straight onto the studs. Angle and force are required. How come no one told me? Mark in Arizona | ||
| Darthane |
O_o ...is one of your rear exhaust studs bent, perhaps? | ||
| 08uly |
The flange slipped right off mine... Compare your two flanges? same pattern? bent stud? Working the header off was a slight puzzle but not bad... Just had to get it to slip past the fins. . | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Both flanges are identical. I checked that first. All studs appear to be straight (as closely as I can tell). The flange on the front cylinder touches the cylinder and drags, but does not bind, when being removed/installed. The rear flange binds pretty hard. I will fiddle with it a bit to practice re-installation. Worst case, I will file the interfering area of the cylinder's top fin (wouldn't want to weaken the flange). Mark | ||
| Kip |
I had the same problem with removal. But it went on w/no problem at all. I was suprised seeing how hard it came off. |
