| Author | Message | ||
     Midnightrider |
Just got finished moving so it was the first time out in a couple weeks. The dash console light "Neutral" now comes on with full pull on the clutch lever. Doesn't matter what gear it's really in, doesn't matter it the engine is running or not. Most times when I shift I don't pull the lever all the way back, and when I shift that way there is no light. It's that last inch to half-inch or so that activates the "neutral" lamp. Everything else runs great. The only other thing, and I can't see how it could be related, is that last night as I was doing some pre-ride checks, I noticed my brake light was out. When I first got the bike almost 3 years ago I installed a Back Off Brake Light Modulator. Once I had a poorly made electrical connection ( my fault) loosen up so I thought that might be it. Redid all the connections, still didn't work. Bypassed the modulator and the brake light worked normally. While I had it in I put a meter on the circuit. Got power to the tail light, power to the modulator. Even had power coming out of the modulator to the brake light. (In this install the brake light switch wires feed the modulator through the a red wire and you have two different flashing modes - depending if you hook a red wire with white stripes or a white wire with red stripes to the brake light lamp. The meter detected a good current flow from either of these if I jumpered the brake light ground wire directly to the battery negative post - but - they made the brake light come on and stay on - no flashing mode. If I jumpered the ground/black wire from the modulator directly to the battery negative post ( with the brake lamp properly grounded) - no brake light. Ended up just removing the modulator and connecting the brake light swith wires to the positive/white lead of the brake lamp, and tail light and brake light work like they should. The only other wrinkle is that at one time during the work I accidentally shorted out the power to the under the seat aux power receptacle and blew that fuse. Fixed that last night. Tested it all again and the aux power works, the tail lamp works, brake light is activated with either the foot pedal or the hand lever - and the neutral light continues to come on when the lever is pilled in that last half-inch. Any ideas? | ||
| Midnightrider |
just for grins i just disconnected the aux power, first by removing the fuse, then laater by undoing the connections. made no difference - the neutral light still comes on | ||
| Rays |
Have you touched the diode in the fuse block? If that is put in backwards you will get the exact symptom you describe. The clutch activates a microswitch that provides a ground to the starter solenoid if you are in gear. The neutral switch provides this ground if you are in neutral and the diode allows the clutch switch to provide this ground without also turning the neutral light on. The diode looks exactly like a fuse but has a symbol similar to this - -|<- (an arrow with a bar across the point). On a Uly the arrow should point to the left-hand side of the bike. If it is installed correctly then the diode itself may be shorted. Of course a fuse placed into the diode position will also look like a shorted diode if you are having a really bad day - the diode should be in the forward L/H position.  | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Rays, As I remember, someone pointed out quite some time ago that the owners manual ( ? ) shows that diode symbol orientation the exact opposite of what it should be. | ||
| Midnightrider |
I'll bet that's it. When I was looking for the blown fuse I pulled them all. Its just as I suspected - the Gremlin is probably me Thanks | ||
| Darthane |
Don't go near a pool, nor eat after midnight. | ||
| Midnightrider |
went out on work break and flipped it voila! perfect thanks again | ||
| Ratbuell |
I'll file this one away in The Vault, LOL  Glad you got 'er fixed. |
