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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through March 09, 2008 » Tire, Bearings, Cases, and Trans « Previous Next »

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Dougm
Posted on Monday, March 03, 2008 - 08:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi all,

Sorry for cramming so many topics in to one, but they all kind of relate.

Changed the rear tire last week on the Uly. Wow. I have changed dozens of tires on my Sportster (3.5" rim, bias-ply), this was way more difficult. That rear rim looked like a car rim sitting in my basement without a tire on it.

With the tire off, I tried rotating the bearings. As I reported in the bearing thread, they turned very hard and were not smooth at all. I did not pry out the seal as I have a service apt. this week for the sidestand recall and wanted them to look at it as a warranty item. But, when I re-installed the wheel and torqued the axle, the wheel turns freely. What's going on there?

I also installed the luggage racks I got from Joel a while back. There were reports of big problems getting them installed, particularly on the right side. I ended up loosening the four allen bolts that hole the rear subframe on. This frees the rear section up considerable. This allowed me to installed the racks without drilling the hole any bigger, just wiggle the tail around until the bolt lines up.

I picked up a pair of Pelican cases from ebay. They are the orange ones with holes cut in them that a trucking co. out of Dayton OH sells. I took pics of the work: http://picasaweb.google.com/dougmansfield1/Pelican Cases

Lastly, I rode to work this morning for the first time in a while. I had changed the trans fluid as last time I rode I heard a strange noise from there. Opening the inspection cover and found a light tan, creamy fluid that ran out as it was so full. Well, when I set the bike in 1st gear, the awful noise is there. Only in 1st though. It goes away as soon as I shift, but returns when I shift back to 1st. Any thoughts?

DougM
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Jlnance
Posted on Monday, March 03, 2008 - 10:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

a light tan, creamy fluid that ran out as it was so full.

Thats water, or rather what happens when water gets in the trans fluid.

I don't know about the noise. It sounds like you've got so much water in there it's over full. Hopefully you can just change the fluid and it will go away. Check your clutch cable boot so see if perhaps the water is coming in that way.
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Dougm
Posted on Monday, March 03, 2008 - 11:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hopefully you can just change the fluid and it will go away.

Sorry, I should have said, I did change the fluid after the discovery of the water logged fluid. This morning was it's first ride since the fluid change.

DougM
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Arcticktm
Posted on Monday, March 03, 2008 - 12:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Doug,
I am no help on the "in 1st gear noise", but the rear wheel bearing situation is pretty typical.
You have nearly no advantage when trying to turn the bearings by hand on the wheel alone, and the spacer can "lock" the 2 sides together, so you are trying to move both at once. That being said, you should still be able to move them, and a sticky or notchy feel is not good, and enough to want to pop the seals off and see what is going on.
When you put on the rear wheel, you now have a big mechanical advantage when you grab the tire and spin the wheel. It is just like using a big "cheater bar" to break loose a stubborn fastener. The longer the bar, the less force it takes, because you are applying a larger torque at the center for the same force applied at the end of the bar (wheel).
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Dr_greg
Posted on Monday, March 03, 2008 - 02:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey, check my "Clutch noise...Fixed" posting. How many miles do you have?

If it's most noticeable when you put the bike in first gear with the clutch disengaged, that may be it.
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Dougm
Posted on Monday, March 03, 2008 - 02:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Dr_greg,

BTW, for anyone else look here:

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/340772.html?1204571708

DougM
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Etennuly
Posted on Monday, March 03, 2008 - 02:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That bearing inspection is the norm for checking the feel of the rear wheel bearings. I just pick out the outer seals when ever I change the rear tire and smear in some fresh grease, leaving a little air space. If you don't see any rust or have looseness of the inner race it should be fine. Remember to use Anti-Sieze on the axle surfaces when reinstalling them.

Articktm is right about the leverage with the wheel and the bearings wanting to turn with the spacer.


Check your trans oil again. If it is still showing a milky brown film it may still have too much moisture still in there and need to be changed again. Clunking into first gear could also be the result of the water in the oil, it can prevent the clutch from releasing properly.
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