| Author | Message | ||
     Pistol |
Just purchased a 08 ULY recently. Well its been cold and rainy up here lately and in my haste to get going one day I am pretty sure I fouled a plug or plugs so now I will swap them out with Iridiums any body know the number off hand. Thanks Pistol | ||
| Adrian_8 |
I use the Iridium NGK DCPR8EIX (6546). I usually get them at NAPA in a four pack..for about $36.00 | ||
| Conchop |
I fouled a plug in my 08. Cleaned it and it ran but I took it in to the dealer for a few little boogers in the bike. Had them change the plugs and they reset the tps - lot less vibes and now more drivability. | ||
| 08uly |
TPS reset on a 2008 Uly???
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| Bigkuri |
I heard from a trusted source that a "manual" TPS reset can be done on the 08's through switching ignition on, and then opening and closing the throttle fully three times, pausing at each extreme for 1 second. Then switch off, and TPS reset done, and you are good to go. Think that my plugs are fouled too - from taking off too early after a cold start. Since then it simply will not hold a "cold idle" and is a pain until hot... =I start it, and then it will stall from idle after a few seconds. This continues until the bike is hot. Sensitive beasties. | ||
| Rwcfrank |
How in the heck does an injected motor foul a plug? Hmmm. | ||
| Jmhinkle |
Because it is not a true Fuel Injection circuit like modern cars. There is no cold idle circuitry in the intake tract, just an algorithm for a false choke. Hence, the bikes really don't like to run or start easily when cold and are real sensitive to throttle input or lack of it. Usually the results are fouled plugs. | ||
| Adrian_8 |
Like my old Mazda RX7..when cold if it did not start(due to weak battery) it would keep adding fuel...when the cylinders full of gas the game was over. | ||
| Jmhinkle |
Exactly. Also, if your battery is slightly weak it makes for ugly times. When I got my bike back from the Stator/VR replacement, the battery was pretty weak. The bike turned over, but would not fire and dumped a bunch of fuel in there. When I got it to kick over, it would only run on one cylinder. Had to pull the plugs and clean them, let the cylinders dry out and charge the battery up to get it to start right. I also cycled the engine with the plugs out for shits and grins and this things dumps a lot of fuel when it's cold. | ||
| Rwcfrank |
Is there an "approved" cold start drill? How cold is "cold?" | ||
| Paul56 |
My starting drill has always been the same cold or hot: don't touch the throttle, crank it till it starts, don't touch the throttle, let it warm up at least 2 minutes, don't touch the throttle until ready to ride away. Works fine for me the last 23 months and 39k miles, 30 degrees to 110. I have my hot idle set to ~1050. It definitely runs rich when cold. | ||
| Jmhinkle |
"Is there an "approved" cold start drill?" Place your head between your knees and kiss your ..........wait, that's something else.  You have to learn your bike really well. I actually had better luck getting my bike to be lean on starting ('07 airbox, K&N and drummer on stock fuel map)and needing a slight crack of the throttle and never fouled a plug until the whole stator/vr/battery problem. (Message edited by jmhinkle on December 13, 2007) | ||
| Etennuly |
I follow what Paul56 said, unless it is below say 40F. Sometimes I have to give it just a little steady throttle to get it to fire, then hold it at 1600 for about three seconds, then let it idle for about three minutes. Usually though, DON'T touch the throttle. I've had a few Buells and they have all been just a little different. You have to figure out what it wants. | ||
| Treadmarks |
Me no touchy throttle. Me only touchy start button, then wait three minutes while bike idles at a rock solid 950 rpm. Mount bike and ride gently until I feel the heat from the exhaust/motor...Then...Lookout Snoopy. | ||
| Cpilot |
I am trying a little different technique. With the temps in the 20's(f) I hit the start with no throttle, it fires once and dies, I hit the start the second time, again with no throttle, and it starts just fine and runs on through the warm-up. It seems to be pretty rich, but it continues to run. So far, no more fouled plugs. I do have the iridium to install the next time I get a fouled plug. | ||
| Chrisb |
Changing your plugs every 5k is cheap insurance against fouled plug. They dont foul in your driveway nor during normal working hours. DAMHIK | ||
| Arcticktm |
Sad that we have to have a fouled plug discussion on a modern bike. Even 2 stroke dirt bikes hardly ever foul plugs anymore (at least my KTM's didn't). Even in super slow tight woods riding. I haven't fouled a bike plug since 1996 and my (poorly modified by me) XR400. Hope I never have to experience this on my Uly, or there will be plenty of colorful exclamations while I change them. Guess I better get some on hand to be ready... I never touch the throttle on anything injected, unless I have already failed on getting the beast to life and am in "try something else" mode. I prefer to let the factory calibration do the work, if my bike is nearly stock. I would suggest 5W40 or 5W50 synthetic if you are doing a lot of 30F or lower starts over the winter. It makes a difference. There are even 0W40 Arctic oils for snowmobiles and far northern trucks, but I don't know many folks that ride 2 wheels in those kind of temps. | ||
| Treadmarks |
Iridium plugs help as they resist fouling a little better. Magnecor wires help even more, especially if installed correctly with dielectric grease on both ends to prevent moisture from entering the connection, and the wires routed properly and protected from abrasion. A solid TPS reset will make starting quicker on 06-07 models. The IAT and the engine temp sensors tell the ECM what the incoming air/engine temp is and the colder the air is the richer the fuel mix is. When starting, let the engine idle until the IAT/engine warms up a little so the fuel will lean out some. This will help to avoid the sneezes and popping in the intake, which could disturb the intake seals and lead to vacuum leaks. Blipping the throttle can contribute to fouled plugs, especially if the engine is not up to normal operating temperature. (I am guilty of this) I am aware of the cold starting difficulty due to the environmentally compliant fuel mapping in the ECM. Most of the EFI Buells tend to bounce between 950-1150 rpm at idle. Some of us sort of like the way it sounds like that. Harleyesque maybe? The problem is when a cold engine idle rpm dips below 900 it will usually stall, or stutter and or sneeze if you try to drive it. You need a solid idle, at whatever rpm you like. | ||
| Chadhargis |
You had cylinders in your RX-7??  Ok, I know you meant "chambers". LOL! I had an '85 model. It always started and ran well, but suffered the apex seal failure. | ||
| Jmhinkle |
mmmm rotor failures.......... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCc3SOcNGxY love the sound it makes when it goes. like a finger in a fan. Back on topic, It must really be the lack of air up here, but I have yet to own a FI bike that will start when the weather is cold without opening the throttle. The Buell I had to snap the throttle at the precise moment it fired or it would never start below 40. The Ducati is the similar. It doesn't seem to be affected until temp is below 35 then the servo start will just crank away and the motor will occasionally stutter unless I open the throttle a little on it. The difference is I have to actually open the throttle and hold it just a bit as the Ducati fires up and then it will settle into a nice idle. The Buell had to be a snap of the throttle at the precise moment or it wouldn't fire up. If I held it open, it would die out and then backfire like a gun shot on the next attempt. My old KLR with a choke and a carb that was factory jetted lean at sea level ran just great up here. Only needed the choke in the dead of winter and it fired right up and idled without fuss. It never sputtered, backfired, coughed wheezed or blatantly rejected throttle input. What the hell good is FI on a bike when it is too stupid to do it's job? (Message edited by jmhinkle on December 14, 2007) | ||
| Treadmarks |
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCc3SOcNGxY That was indeed cool. Sounded great, wonder if it was a boosted motor or just wound up real tight. Seems like the fans loved it when it died. We used to do that early in the morning in the parking lot in high school back in the 70s. By the time the cops showed up all the cars were parked and the burnt rubber smoke was like a low fog. Quite foolish when I look back on it, but still not as foolish as getting caught doing a burnout in the breezeway between buildings. Had to go to summer school that year to make it up. I am so glad I lived through the stupidity of my youth. | ||
| Dr_greg |
I've never fouled a plug (40K miles). I live at the same altitude as Jmhinkle and don't use Iridium plugs. My '06 Uly has always started quickly and I do warm it up thoroughly before riding. But then I have the charmed bike, I guess... | ||
| Adrian_8 |
What I think would be a good project for all the "ULY Super Techs" is convert a ULY over to a carburetor(2) like a Harley XR 750...Man, I get tired of the FI crap...just a giant step backward for the consumer with the EPA involved. Would it not be nice to put in a certain main, pilot and needle setting an be done...and have a good running bike? MY old 99 FXDX with the pumper ran fine at high altitudes and starts on first hit of the starter and it is home/road fixable with no damn fuel pump. We need a change-over "kit" not a laptop. | ||
| Dennis_c |
Adrian 8 Your #1. I will take the carb any day one good reason there faster, and cheaper to own,  | ||
| Johnboy777 |
Better yet, lets go back to the time before cars and motorcycles - when all it took was feed and water to keep your ride running well.  | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I lurk on this area because I plan on getting a 2008 this spring. That having been said, I am getting nervous reading about these plug fouling stories. I have 81,000 on my X1 and it has NEVER fouled a plug. I replace them when it becomes a bit harder to start and they always come out looking clean with worn down electrodes. I always have to crack the throttle a small amount to start it when cold. That old tuber will start in 14F temps too. Reading these stories is making me very nervous about the 2008. Is it just the 2008 that fouls plugs if you don't get it right? Do other XB engines sabotage themselves if you don't start them just right? Fuel injection is supposed to make everything easier dammit! | ||
| Etennuly |
It is easier! And that is usually the problem. Riders new to injection and no choke seem to like to twist and blip the throttle when it is cold. That is the point, just do nothing, or very little as needed. | ||
| Prowler |
+1 on the carb conversion kit. I think a down draft dual throat 40mm or 45mm Dellorto would kick butt on these bikes. Unfortunately, you'd still need a fuel pump to get fuel up to the carb. Maybe someday I'll weld up an intake manifold and try this on a second bike. That'd be cool..... | ||
| Bertotti |
Natexlh1000 you only see the bad posted most of us have had no problems. Just keep the battery strong and don't touch the throttle when you start it. No problems. If it doesn't start first time I just it the starter again and it starts. I let it warm up anywhere from a couple minutes to 5 or more depending on temps. At 20 degrees I let it run a good 5 to 10 minutes before I ride. | ||
| 08uly |
2008 Uly running fine... Below freezing it sometimes needs a second start but I never touch the throttle & just let the DDFI do it's thing. Let it warm up a few minutes then take it easy the first mile or so.  |
