| Author |
Message |
    
Jmhinkle
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 17, 2007 - 12:44 am: | 
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Does the Mega squirt software do the work for you? I haven't checked that out yet. My map seems awfully rough in 3-d mode. |
Dentfixer
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 17, 2007 - 08:59 am: |
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Ok guys, I want on the bandwagon. Who is making/selling the cables? Anybody? PM me and I'll buy one. |
Treadmarks
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 17, 2007 - 10:25 am: |
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Does the Mega squirt software do the work for you? I haven't checked that out yet. My map seems awfully rough in 3-d mode.
Actually, I have not yet learned how to manipulate the maps in megasquirt. I went through manually in ecmspy and modified some of my numbers to smooth things out.
It made a considerable difference. Strong smooth pulls now. |
Teeps
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 17, 2007 - 01:01 pm: |
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Treadmarks
Have you checked the AFV since changing map values? |
Treadmarks
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 17, 2007 - 02:25 pm: |
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Have you checked the AFV since changing map values?
I checked it when I got home yesterday, after a 1 hour ride of mostly freeway then traffic.
AFV was 99. That was the first time I had seen it on a solid 99. Normally it bounces from 97-103. I will check it again after I get home today. The popping is almost totally gone.
That freakin micron sounds way cool now when you roll off the throttle. I just can't ride this bike enough lately. My motard is getting a layer of dust on it because the Uly gets all the love now. |
Glenn
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 17, 2007 - 02:43 pm: |
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Hi Treadmarks,
Can you tell us how you approached smoothing the curve out? Did you make the same changes to both front and back, etc?
Thanks! |
Tank_bueller
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 17, 2007 - 02:55 pm: |
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Hey all!
Joel, just found this thread. The cable works great BTW.
I tried the cabls for VDSTS first as well. I read somewhere that it will not work due to the "dongle" which has some sort of key only recognized by VDSTS.
I also tried to play with the cold start enrichment settings. I can "see" them in the other maps section, but nothing I tried would allow me to change it. Not sure if this feature is active in the software(yet?). |
Hexangler
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 17, 2007 - 03:15 pm: |
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I want to play.
Would someone make me a cable?
I'll pay for it and buy beer too.
I tried to get a hold of Jmhinkle but PM never worked.
(Just got off the phone with him. I'm getting "Hooked up". So I have taken my personal info off this post.)
Thanks Jmhinkle!!!
Hex
(Message edited by hexangler on October 17, 2007) |
Jmhinkle
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 17, 2007 - 05:29 pm: |
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I've got about 6 extra cables right now. $40 cash check or money order gets them. PM me. Hope everyone is happy with theirs so far. Out of the first batch of 15, I sold 12, 3 are spoken for with no money received yet, and I ordered 3 more cables due to interested parties contacting me.
Hex, I just tried emailing you again. |
Jmhinkle
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 17, 2007 - 05:33 pm: |
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Treadmarks,
Can you email me your fuel map? I would like to look at it for comparison.
joelshop at hotmail dot com |
Treadmarks
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 17, 2007 - 05:50 pm: |
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Hi Glen, I will try to help out here. I am no expert on this as I have just started playing the game myself. If there are any experts out there willing so share their knowledge, please step in and keep me in check. If you have a stumble, cough or sneeze...fix it before moving forward with your fuell map tuning. I would strongly recommend that everyone who wants to experiment with your fuel maps, take the time to do the job right by eliminating any deficiencies before you begin. I am a huge fan of doing the job right so you don't have to go back and start over due to some overlooked item. Change your plugs after you have gapped them correctly. Replace your wires with madnecors. Use dilectric silicone grease on the plugs and coil boots and make sure they are securely seated on the plug and coil.
With the ignition out of the way, move to the induction and verify that the seals are good and that you have a solid TPS reset, not performed by your local stealer but like this:
If you are having a stumble off idle, general low RPM sluggishness or sneezing back through the intake during low rpm acceleration, try the following.
Check your plugs, it is cheap insurance to just install a set while you're in there. Then you will know they are good. Most of the Ulys have a tendency to rub the spark plug wires on the frame and I have seen them completly worn through. Yes, they can. Mine did. Get some magnecor wires, you will not regret it.
Here is the deal on the solid TPS reset.
Think of the TPS as a spring loaded pot. It sends a voltage signal to the ECM and it adds fuel accordingly. Very simple really. The entire process is actually based on the starting point of the TPS in relation to the throttle plate. The TPS has two plastic index tabs that must line up with the tabs on the throttle plate shaft. It seems most TPS sensors are installed straight up from the factory and this is ok for a while. After the bike is broken in, these tabs get a small amount of wear on them and they are no longer properly timed with the true zero of the throttle plate. This is when everyone runs to the stealer to get their TPS reset. It is the combination of wear on the TPS tabs, and lack of technical proficiency of the techs at the stealership that seem to always provide mixed results.
In order to be certain you have a true zero try the following:
With your air box assembly and base off, the TPS sensor is right on top of the throttle body. If your TPS has two orange dots, you have the new revision with the vertical alignment tabs. This procedure applies to the old style as well. Adjust both throttle cables so sufficient slack is available. Back off idle adjustment cable until the throttle plate will snap shut without touching the idle cable stop. With a scribe, mark the TPS position by scratching a single line from the throttle body to the TPS. This will serve as a reference point just in case. With a 7mm open end wrench, remove the two TPS mounting bolts and remove the TPS from the throttle body. Clean the debris from the back of the TPS and the side of the throttle body. Apply a small amount of high temp silicone grease to the tabs on the TPS to minimize wear in the future. Replace the TPS but leave the mounting bolts slightly loose and rotate the TPS full left (counterclockwise). Insure the throttle plate is totally closed, then rotate the TPS clockwise until you feel the spring make contact with the alignment tabs on the throttle plate. Rotate the TPS a little more just to preload the mechanical zero position and then secure the mounting bolts. Most of you will notice that according to your reference marks, your new position is just slightly right of the old position. Now your TPS and throttle plate are truly aligned, without play. Connect all wiring and perform a TPS reset, just like the manual states.
Now you have a solid TPS zero.
Ride and feel the difference. I have no more sneezing or lean like surging.
(I have been told that this procedure is in the manual somewhere. I just had to learn the hard way, as usual).
Make sure your timing is adjusted straight up by following the instructions provided in the ECMSpy information pack.
Now, since you have eliminated the possibility of induction or ignition issues, you are ready to move on to fueling mods. Please read the information provided in the ECMSpy again once or twice, until you feel comfortable enough to change things on your own. Always save yor current fuel maps on your hard drive of the laptop, before you start making changes.
Can you tell us how you approached smoothing the curve out?
In ECMSpy once connected fetch the fuel maps from your ECM. Leave your laptop on, but disconnect it, and move inside so you can sit down in a nice calm area and study your maps. Get familiar with the numbers on the standard fuel map view, for the front and rear cylinders. Pay attention to the difference. Now, switch to the 3D map view by checking the view box on the mid/top right of your screen. Use your mouse to click on the 3D map and move it around for a better look. Since it is safer to increase the cell numbers in the fuel map, start with some mild increases there. Each block on the fuell map 3D view corasponds to the map grid under it. Think of it as a topagraphical map of some mountains. Lets say you have several areas on your 3D map that look like valleys or sharp depressions in the landscape. Count the number of lines up and over from the TPS and RPM axis, then switch it back to the non 3D view. From there count the same number of lines up and over on the same axis. Find the number(s) in that area that are responsible for the sharp depression in the 3D view. Select them and Increase those numbers just a few units, and switch back to the 3D view to observe the change. Once you get the hang of making the numerical change, then checking it's effect on the 3D map. Only make a few small changes on the front, then move to the rear and make the same type of changes there. Save it as a different file name on your hard drive. Now, fetch that map and burn it to your ecm, while following the instructions and disclaimers on the way.
Toggle your ignition off and back on to reboot the new map. Start it up, go to the fuel map tab and fetch your fuel maps from the ecm. Verify it is the now map that you just modded. Check your on screen displays and very all of your vital signs are ok.
If you don't like the feel of he difference after your take it for a warmed up spin, just go back to the original map and start over. |
Glenn
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 17, 2007 - 07:02 pm: |
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Wow! Thank you very much for taking the time Treasmarks to give us all such fantastic instructions. You have made this very clear.
Thanks!
Glenn |
Tank_bueller
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 17, 2007 - 08:51 pm: |
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Still more advice...
Do not f**k with the maps if you do not know what it changes.
If you read the EcmSpy instructions, and found the different areas that control the map under different TPS and RPM values....
...You should find it difficult to "map out" your specific problems.
Don't get me wrong. I want to change the hell out of it so my bike runs like a raped ape.....but it already does.(2003 xb9) |
Jim_sb
| | Posted on Thursday, November 01, 2007 - 05:18 pm: |
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Anyone,
Where is the "EcmSpy Information Pack"?
I have a cable thanks to Josh. It works great with my ThinkPad, FTDI drivers and the EcmSpy software.
I need to perform a TPS reset (can do shortly).
BUT - where can I find this info. on using EcmSpy to set the timing?
Thanks,
Jim in Santa Barbara |
Tank_bueller
| | Posted on Thursday, November 01, 2007 - 11:09 pm: |
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Here's a link to the most info I have seen in one place...
http://www.bike-pix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2034 0&sid=6a0994048e8562132ff07a108eedcd5a
I downloaded a "user guide" of sorts from somewhere, but I can't remember where.
If you send me a PM, I'll be happy to e-mail it to you. It's a wordpad doc, and it's 64 Kb. Should be no problem through e-mail. |
Jim_sb
| | Posted on Friday, November 02, 2007 - 01:12 am: |
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Hello Tank,
I have seen that site.
I have printed out something called "Steve's Tuning Guide" but unless I have missed something it does not discuss the proper procedure to set static timing referred to above.
???
Regards,
Jim in Santa Barbara |
Tank_bueller
| | Posted on Friday, November 02, 2007 - 05:09 pm: |
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"Steves tuning Guide"
That is the same one I have.
I have to agree with you, as I have not seen a procedure associated with Ecmspy that relates to timing.
You may have to do it as described in the factory manual, using Ecmspy to verify the numbers(or something like that?). That might not work though, with the ECM constantly adjusting the timing for the conditions.
Let us know if you find anything. |
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