| Author | Message | ||
     Paochow |
I ended up buying a multi heat model that worked pretty well. That aluminum wheel makes one heck of a heat sink though. I couldn't find any concrete anchors that were large enough so I ended up sticking in a cheap 3 jaw puller and taping it with a brass rod from the other side. Freezing the bearings and heating the hub made for a fairly easy install. The brake side bearing was toast-rusted out. The drive side looked nearly brand new. ???? (Message edited by paochow on August 17, 2007) | ||
| Bertotti |
I'm not sure but I would probably wait till things are at room temp before doing any torquing. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Paochow, Glad things went fairly easy for you and you proved my point that there are many ways to accomplish any given task. I went to a couple of hardware joints last night to see if they had what I was theorizing about. A 3/4" short zinc alloy lag shield with a 3/4" lag bolt probably would do the trick. It expands to fit tight in a 1" hole and the bearing's bore is 1.181" so a shim on the outside of the shield would have probably been needed. Your use of a small gear puller was a good use of the old bean. http://www.lag-shield.com/ Anyway, I'm glad that you didn't have to spend a fortune for some Buell specialty tool that could only be used for one purpose. My cheap heat gun was bought years ago for removing paint and varnish and I've used it for many other things quite often. Inexpensive but apparently long lasting. | ||
| Paochow |
No problem Bertotti. I ended up waiting until the next day to put the wheel on. Man are new belts a tight fit. Took a bit of grunting to get the axle back far enough to line up. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Paochow, When I put my rear wheel back on a couple of weeks ago I put the axle through the swing arm with the belt just loose around the axle. Then I started it on the rear sprocket and turned the wheel to feed it on. Probably not the best way but it worked and the belt seems no worse for it. That method has worked twice for me. Maybe someone has already done this: Remove one of the idler's studs and replace it with a bolt. Then when it comes time to change a tire the one bolt could be removed so the idler could be swung out of the way to create a loose belt. Same with putting it back together. Seems that would be the best for the belt and easiest method timewise. | ||
| Paochow |
I've done rear wheel replacement without issue in the past, but the new belt I put on was very stiff compared to my old one. This is one of the reasons I switched them out as I had a hard time looping the new one enough to fit in my case as a spare. The old belt rolls up no problem. | ||
| Windrider |
E Glider, The big blue book has you remove the idler pulley completely for belt removal/installation. It could be easier, but it really isn't that bad. You have to remove the rear foot peg, the cover, then the idler mounting bolts. The whole operation takes about 5 minutes and IMHO it is worth the time to insure that the belt is not stressed. Without the idler pulley the belt is very easy to work with and doesn't take any stress during installation or removal. It also gives you a chance to clean that area out and inspect the front drive pulley and idler. Just my 2 cents. That is a nice idea also about a 1 bolt idler removal. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Thanks for the info. My belt made it through the trip to Sturgis but next time I'll remove the pulley. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Removing the pulley for belt replacement really is no big deal unless you're one those unlucky souls like me with badly-built sidecase mounts. Getting the mounts to fit w/o the right passenger peg hitting the right sidecase is a nightmare, and once set if you remove the footpegs bracket to access the pulley you have to loosen up all the sidecase mounts and start all over since there is no way to reattach the footpegs bracket with everything still tight. That said I just replaced my belt at 25k @ 1 year just because. It was VERY tight but even w/o loosening the pulley it went on relatively easily, but then I remove all the guards for easier access. Took my front wheel off this w/e to replace fork seals, 32k and the wheel bearings still seem fine. Anti-seize from last tire change about 6-7k ago was still in good shape on the axle and around the races. Bearings spun freely and smoothly with just enough resistance to indicate they still had lube in there. Spacer sleeve was clean inside with no evidence of contamination. Since my Uly was down all week with the blown fork seal I didn't get to wear the rear tire out and change it to check the bearings. I have no play or weird stuff evident when spinning the rear wheel so I hope it's all OK. I'm still going to opt for the better (IMHO) bearings recently posted here eventually. (Message edited by xbimmer on August 20, 2007) | ||
| Jameslaugesen |
Just a quick update. Finally had time to look at my squeeking rear bearings. The brake side has about ~2mm movement in it. Pulley side just feel notchy. Wheel is off, and I picked up some new bearings today (Nachi 6006 C3 something'somethings) for AU$15 ea. Not too fussed about quality for now, just want to get the bike up asap for a trip this weekend. I was refered to a 'bearing guy' by various bike mechanics who all said he's 'THE' 'bearing guy', he seemed very good, and assured me that these bearings are the best 6006's one could possible buy for this application, and that paying anything more is simply an unfair markup. He said these bearings are so common they are all excellent quality and very cheap. Interesting. So I'll try to get time to install them over the next few days. I plan on doing it the 'old fashion way' as practice for a field change. I mentioned the Buell's lack of an extra outer oil/grease seal over the bearings (which most dirtbikes have) to a few mechanics and the bearing guy. They all suggested retrofitting some kind of cover to protect the seal a little. The bearing guy said a neoprene sleeve or 'boot' butted up against the bearing would be suitable. So I'll give some thought to that. | ||
| Jmhinkle |
What does the rear end feel like if the bearings are going bad but not trashed as I've seen in some photos? Can you tell when riding that they are going out? I've been fighting a strange rear end slide feeling for 3000 miles and just can seem to find the culprit. Wondering if there is a bearing issue causing it. | ||
| Jameslaugesen |
With the rear wheel lifted off the ground (you can jack up the rear of the Uly by using the rear underside of the muffler as a jack point), there should be ZERO movement in the wheel... if there is ANY movement, the bearings are shot. The weird sliding feeling sounds like the bearings. If you imagine the wheel can move sideways slightly... it is similar to riding with a misaligned wheel (ie, on a chain driven bike, suckers), and 'weird' tyre, etc. You'll feel like the rear end is having more steering input than normal, like the rear is trying to turn around the front slightly. ... if you're a confident rider, go with your instincts and check the bearings :-) | ||
| Jmhinkle |
The feeling I have definitely matches with the theory of bad bearings, but I have no play in the wheel. When I first lean over to take any curve, it feels like the rear wheel steers out or slides and the bike sort of drops on me. Very unnerving feeling. My belt is still tracking out on the rear pulley. I think my swingarm is jacked. | ||
| Kieefer |
what tires are you running? next I would look at the suspension. that is after I pull the rear axle and reinspect the bearings. "My belt is still tracking out on the rear pulley. I think my swingarm is jacked." someone else, besides you needs to look at your bike. IMO | ||
| Jmhinkle |
They are. I dropped it off on Wednesday for a September 5th Appointment to look at: 1) Belt tracking issues. 2) Rear end sliding feeling when starting to corner. 3) Rear shock preload limit too low. Tires are in my profile, but to reiterate from many moons ago, problem #2 and #3 were happening with both my original Dunlops and my current Scorpion rear. Tires have made zero difference in the issue. Problem #1 has been since the tire change issue which I posted here and showed picture of my swingarm spread and the axle still stuck in the bike. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/280073.html | ||
| Xbimmer |
Took my rear wheel off today finally for a new Sync. I'd used copper-type anti-seize last time, it was black and dry in there and the axle was a little stubborn coming out through the bearings. Won't use that stuff again, back to the silver stuff. At 33k my rear bearings still feel/look good. The inner races turn with a slight but smooth resistance, no evidence of water damage etc. I'm reluctant to pull the seals to check inside, but maybe I will when I get the wheel back tonight. One thing I noticed for the first time today, when I turn either inner race the opposite side turns also. The spacer seems to be pressed firmly between the two sides with no play at all. Anybody ever notice that? | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
The copper stuff is good for spark plugs and anywhere you need to make good electrical contact ( ground ). Xbimmer, Popping the seals out with a very small screw driver is very very very easy. Putting them back on is even easier. They press right back into place with your finger. No kidding at all. Adding wheel bearing grease to these bearings is a good thing. Don't be afraid to do it. Plus you'll get a good look at the actual condition. There will be grease in there but adding some is good insurance and the bearing balls love it. | ||
| Xbimmer |
E-glider thanks, so where do I pry away with the blade? I would think the sealing lip toward the center would be no. That area's already questionable. Does it pull away from the outer race? Think I'll pick up a spare to play with. Already buttoned up, gassed up and scrubbed in a new Sync this w/e but I'd still like to see what goes on with these bearings. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Xbimmer, I pried from the inside diameter. Maybe you could even just grab it out with a pair of needlenose. Whose to say that the bearing company isn't being cheap with the lube on assembly of these bearings. Anyway, next time I have that rear wheel off I'll be popping the seals and inspecting and wiping in more grease. Pretty cheap insurance if you ask me. | ||
| Cityxslicker |
Riding it like a Uly! Get bearing failure like Uly :P 14500 miles. Thanks to the guys at Paradise in Portland for getting me back on the road so quick and under warranty. | ||
| Bearly |
Crap, Just lost my left rear bearing on the Uly with 11450 miles. I never thought it would happen to this bike as I have been so careful with the torque specs and all. No else has ever pulled a wheel on this bike. It has never been through a stream. Jim's Tools: I have a the bearing puller from Jim's tool company. The tool broke pulling bearing on the sixth try. Jim's didn't know that the ID on the XB rear bearings was (1.25in?) larger than the front bearing ID. They don't have a solution yet. FYI. | ||
| Jmhinkle |
Has there been a good replacement bearing found in different or possibly better brand than the OEM ones? What are the bearing numbers for the rear wheel bearings? | ||
| Hughlysses |
Joel, There have been a couple of good threads here and at advrider on the subject. The rear wheel bearings are standard 6006 double-seal ball bearings and should be available at any bearing supply house. The best advice that's been given so far is to buy a name-brand bearing (such as SKF/Timken/NTN) AND make sure the bearings you get were manufactured in the USA, Japan, Sweden or Germany. The OEM brand (NTN) is evidently fine, but their bearings can come from any of the above locations OR one of several third-world countries whose manufacturing standards may not quite be up to par. Speaking of which, it would be really helpful to this thread if those of you with failed bearings were able to identify where they were manufactured (if the writing doesn't get destroyed when the bearing goes). That would help identify country of manufacture as a culprit in the bearing failures if that's the actual cause. (Message edited by hughlysses on September 06, 2007) | ||
| Jayvee |
When I went looking for a TIMKEN wheel bearing for my Ford last year, all the bearing were made in CHINA. I went to a specialty bearing shop in San Francisco, and they found an old one in the back of the shelf that was US made. They told me that Timken has off-shored everything less than 4" wheel bearings to CHINA. I might have bought the last made in US Timken wheel bearing ever sold to the public. | ||
| Lduly |
Dec. 05 build date @17,000 miles at failure. | ||
| Vicster |
Sorry if I missed this somewhere reading through this thread, but is there any way to attach the seal from the old bearing to the new bearing to create a 3rd World double lip seal?? I can hear the chuckles out there, but seems to me something similar was done with our /7 BMWs back in the dark ages. Aren't some boat trailer bearings designed to work under water? I wonder if any of those are compatible. | ||
| Ikeman |
Add me to the list... 15300+ miles at failure. Just got a loud knock - thought it was either the primary chain smacking the case or a loose crankshaft sprocket. Shop just called and said it was the bearings. Luckily, didn't fail completely. | ||
| Chadhargis |
Add me. I removed my rear wheel to change a tire and, as always, I checked the bearings. They were notchy and hard to turn. They weren't seized up yet, but very close. I took the wheel to the shop and they replaced them without question. Covered by warranty. I've been the only one to remove and replace my wheels, and I always follow the proper torquing procedure, so I know it wasn't due to a ham fisted mechanic. Just bad bearings. I've got about 12,000 miles on my bike. | ||
| Snub13 |
Ike, Is the "dealer" being cool about this? Good that it wasn't a total melt down. Tim | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Chadhargis, My rear bearings were the same way and I popped the outside seals and pushed in new wheel bearing grease with my finger and then pushed the seals back into place. Put my wheel back on and rode 200 miles. Took wheel back off and the bearings worked smooth like a new bearing should with none of the tightness or notchy turning they exhibited before adding grease. I'm thinking either the bearings don't originally have enough grease or they just need preventative "grease maintenance" every tire change. It was very easy to do and certainly less effort than taking it to the dealer. That is what I plan to do unless of course they are rusting or have fallen apart. Next time I do it I will have to post photo's. (Message edited by electraglider_1997 on September 12, 2007) |
