| Author | Message | ||
     Etennuly |
Who has the best lubrication material and method of lubing the clutch and throttle cables? | ||
| Paochow |
I've been using one of the Cable Life setups since 2001 (Actually the same can of lube and cable hookup since 01.) It works decent, however you need to disconnect the cable at one end and remove the adjusters on the throttle cable to get the lube all the way through. Due to the variations in cable size, using a rag around the device and eye protection isn't a bad idea. I'm all ears if anyone has an easier method. | ||
| Hughlysses |
This is probably going to go about like an engine lubricant "discussion"....  If you don't want to spend the bucks for a store-bought cable lube kit, you can do a good job of lubing your cables with your favorite engine oil. Take your cables loose at the upper end. Take some cardboard and tape and make a funnel at the top end of cable. Hold the end of the cable vertical and slowly pour oil into the funnel. It helps the oil flow if you work the inner cable in and out. When you get enough oil in, remove the cable, take off the funnel, and wipe off the excess. This method works well and is cheap, but it can be messy. The made-for-the-purpose cable lube systems work well. I finally bought one this year. The lubricant seems a little "stickier" and may be longer-lasting than the engine oil method. Price for the kit is about $15 IIRC. | ||
| Etennuly |
I'm all ears if anyone has an easier method. Yeah me too. I hate it when everything is adjusted perfectly and it has to be disassembled to be lubed. Then it is back to dick with it 101.  Hugh, that is the method I've been using. (Message edited by etennuly on July 21, 2007) | ||
| Blake |
I too use the cable luber clamp delio, but I use white lithium grease. It seems to last about twice as long as the lighter oil products. | ||
| Treadmarks |
Here is a trick I learned in the field that actually works quite well. Disconnect the cable at the bar end and wipe away any grit or debris that likes to cling on to this area. Get a sandwich size zip lock baggie and cut out the corner just enough to allow you to slip the cable end inside. Use a couple of small wire ties (or string in a pinch) and wrap around the baggie corner so that it securely holds the corner of the bag to the cable housing. Open the zip lock baggie and pour in in your favorite cable lube mix. I like a thicker teflon base gun oil for the clutch cable, and WD-40 or lighter for the throttle cables. Once your favorite mix is "in the bag" close the zip lock and gently squeeze the bag so you force the lube to flow into the cable. Be careful as with the thinner lubes, alot may come out the other end of the cable. | ||
| Etennuly |
Tread, EXCELLENT! I'm gonna try that. Looks like a method I can use on the boat too. Thanks. | ||
| Dfishman |
Tread.......I use that method on my boat cables.It works real good. | ||
| Oldnotbold |
My 06 service manual calls for LUBIT-8 TUFOIL chain and gable lube (p/n 94968-85tv). I have some Yammaha chain lube that worked great on the chain. I'm thinking about trying it. Dennis | ||
| Arcticktm |
Not sure I would try chain lube for the cable. It is usually designed to evaporate off the carrier and get very sticky, to lessen fling-off. This might get very gummy in your cable, where fling off is not an issue. Just a thought. I just buy a $6 can of cable lube (it does not thicken too much in winter, so your cables don't get stiff in the cold). One can lasts me years, even with multiple bikes (including dirt bikes). The cable luber attachment is a bargain at <$15 and is tough to beat for simplicity. | ||
| Sparky |
1) A word of caution about lubing clutch cables. If there is any dirt or crud inside the cable, guess where that stuff is going to go --> inside the primary/trans next to the clutch. I was having no luck with lubing the cable as the lever effort would get stiffer over time. Finally removed the cable from the primary and flushed out a remarkable amount of black dirt/gunk that would have been pressure fed into said primary/trans if not removed. Reinstalled the cable and the lever effort feels light and brand new again. 2) It's a good idea to put about an inch of electrical tape on the clutch lever to cover the slot where the cable goes. This helps keep dirt from sticking to the forward exposed part of an oily/greasy cable. | ||
| Treadmarks |
It has been my experience that on HD products that use a two piece clutch cable, is that what you lube with on the top end mostly leaks out the swivel adjustment on the front of the frame. Alot of the nasty stuff in the lower cable is actually residue from the gearbox. On HD this is a biggie because the cable dumps into the transmission and there is some nasty stuff in there, no matter how often you change it. Like sparky said, on a Buell it dumps into the primary. Some of the additives that are great for cable use are bad for clutches. Use some lube that is thin enough to flush, and use it often enough keep the cable clean. Lift your rubber boot over your adjustment bolt on the clutch cable and loosen it up all the way and you will be able to catch what comes out of the top during flushing, before it gets to the primary. After you adjust, replace the boot and use a ty-wrap on the top of the boot to keep rain water out of the joint, as enough of it will make it to your primary. | ||
| Oldnotbold |
Well are you using LUBIT-8 TUFOIL Chain and cable lube (P/N HD-94968-85TV) that is called out in the service manual? Dennis |
