| Author | Message | ||
     Old_mil |
...so I'm getting ready to start my first wiring project. I've mounted a Garmin 2730 to the crossbar with a touratech mount and have the hardwire cord. Also have a fuseblock. Any recommendations on how to go about this exactly? Thanks | ||
| Bikesmark |
I have a cardinal rule that any mods I do to a bike be reversible so any extra wiring goes directly to the battery with a seperate fuse(I use the weatherproof in-line fuseholders from the local Auto Zone) as close as possible to the battery. I won't have to do it on the Uly when I get it but on my other bikes I always add a BMW style socket at the handlebars and run a 12 gauge hot and ground(never use the frame as a ground,especially where aluminum is involved) to the outlet and then can tap off that if needed for other farkles. The GPS has its own fuse protection so getting a feed from a 20-amp line is no problem. Then,when it's time to sell, which I seem to do a lot, it's a simple matter to remove everything if the buyer wants without leaving wads of tape where you tapped into the bikes harness. I like the direct hot connection to the battery for plugging in the Battery Tender and the GPS doesn't need backup battery power when you turn off the ignition but of course you'll want to power off if stopped overnight,etc. | ||
| Jackbequick |
The 2730 draws 12 Watts max at 13.8V. That means it could conceivably draw 1 Amp. But in reality it will probably be drawing less than that most of the time (the 2730 has no internal battery that is being charged). If your S3T wiring is similar to what my M2 was, your accessory wiring circuit is on a 15 Amp fuse and if you add up the draw of everything (lights, etc.) that is on that circuit, you'll probably find that you are not using much of the capacity there. So adding a little more load to it is technically sound. For the sake of convenience and a short wiring run, I'd consider connecting the positive lead of the GPS to what, on the M2, was the orange and gray accessory circuit in the instrument housing or headlight shell and the negative lead to either any convenient black wire in that same area or to a grounded metallic fastener (screw, etc.) in that same area. I would leave the GPS receiver's 1 Amp fuse in line on the positive lead. If there is a failure in the GPS, it will blow that first without taking out any downstream fuses. Done that way, the 2730 will come on with the switch in the accessory position (if the switch on the 2730 is on) and you can use it with the engine not running. Also, you can remove the key in the accessory position to keep the GPS powered up during shorter stops. It also means that you can't accidently kill the battery by leaving the GPS on because when the ignition is off there is no drain on the battery. I used the 3M Scotchlock connector that lets you "T" a 1/4" spade terminal off of an exiting wire to hook up the GPS I used in a tank bag on my M2. That is called an insulation displacing tap or connector and as long as it is sized appropriate to the wire your are tapping, they are safe to use and trouble free. I got those at Wal-Mart or Home Depot. Jack (Message edited by jackbequick on July 11, 2007) | ||
| Stevenknapp |
On the Uly you've got the cig lighter right there in the dash. Tap into that. It's on it's own fuse, with a relay to control it. I used a Posi-loc connector (walmart sells them), which I prefer to the scotchlocs. | ||
| Old_mil |
So far, what I've ended up doing: Installing a centech fuse block underneath the seat... ...running the cord for the Garmin underneath the airbox to the underseat area as well as the cord for this little multifunction device. http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup.aspx?GID=F9F7 4451-DFD2-4665-A812-3400382E014B&search=clock&stor e=Harley&page=1 Should I wire the multifunction directly to the battery so the voltmeter gets a reading that's not fuse protected? Or should I run that through the fuse block? Finally, what rating of fuse should I use for the garmin? | ||
| Jackbequick |
The Garmin DC adapters have a 1 Amp fuse in them, the specs on the 2820 says it draws 12 Watts at 13.8V and that is consistent with using a 1 Amp fuse (Amps = Watts/Volts = .87 Amps). Jack | ||
| Old_mil |
Well, the project's done. I think. As of right now, the multifunction device runs off the battery, which means it's always on. I'm hoping that's not enough of a draw to kill the battery - thoughts? If it is, I'll have to reroute it to something that's on and off with the key. Here's the picture...  | ||
| Paochow |
Looks good, but what happened to the Tach and indicator lights? Most will agree the tach isn't that necessary, but I do find the low fuel light to be important. | ||
| Old_mil |
Oddly enough, when I'm on the bike, I can see the low fuel light underneat the mount for the Garmin. Course that's about all I can see on the warning panel. |
