| Author | Message | ||
     Dickc |
I have a 2007 Uly with 7300 miles. I use synthetic oil. I just returned from a 3300 mile trip and I had to add oil twice on the trip and it is at the add mark now at home. I added approximately 6 ounces each of the two times I added on the trip. Is this normal? On my Goldwings I would run 6000 miles and it would never be down to the add mark. Dickc | ||
| Strokizator |
I don't know if it' normal or not (Only 3500 miles on mine) but you talking roughly 1/2 quart between oil changes which doesn't sound bad to me. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Dickc, One of the main differences between Buells and other models is that the oil provides two main functions instead of only one: Lubrication Cooling Air-cooled engines use the oil as a cooling fluid. Ours inject it onto the bottom side of the piston head. BMWs circulate it like cooling fluid. The temperatures for air-cooled engines varies much more than water-cooled engines. The oil can get near the 400*+ mark. Vaporization is higher and oil break down is higher. I notice my oil "usage" is higher in the hottest part of the summer as compared to cooler winter. My old VW Bug did the same thing. When the oil gets really worked (a normal ride  ), it gets super hot. The oil vaporizes and is routed into your airbbox and is sucked into the engine. I just cleaned mine out yesterday. There was a little oily residue inside the airbox as well as down the rubber intake funnel. Some of your oil is going there. The oil also breaks down more quickly due to the higher temperatures. The third potential place of "loss" is in simple blow by. Because our engines are air-cooled, the tolerances must be slightly looser to accomodate expansion. As a result, the rings seal slightly differently depending on the operating temperatures of the piston, rings, and cylinder walls. It is slight, but you will get a little blow by. It isn't "bad", it's just different than what you are used to. Compared to Japanese bikes, our engines drink oil. Compared to my old VW, they sip it quite gingerly. Keep an eye on it. I've never had to put more than a half quart between oil changes. If you are putting a half quart per ride, I'd be worried. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Which Synthetic? My 9sx drank 5w50 like crazy. True 20w50 goes away about 1/4 to 1/8 as fast. | ||
| Treadmarks |
My 06 Uly used a little. Not enough to add between changes, but I change alot. I used 20w50 syn. Next time you check your air filter, open the throttle plate and look to see if you can spot any black in the intake runner. If you can, I can tell you where your oil is going.  On the better side, when I tore my top end down with 8000 miles, you could still see all of the hone marks in the cylinder bore from the factory. If you don't see black in the intake under the throttle body, then the rings probably have not completely seated, just keep riding and it should get better. But if you do see black....well, thats another story.  | ||
| Dickc |
Thanks everyone... I will just carry some oil with me on trips. I am using Harley 20w50 Synthetic. Dickc | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I'm using the same synthetic. Chad is using the Royal Purple synthetic. His usage is less than mine. I suspect the HD Synthetic is more prone to vaporization/breakdown. I have been thinking about using something else. I always carry the other half quart of the 3 quarts when I'm on a ride longer than about 500 miles. | ||
| 05mxdiesel |
My bike doesn't have a lot of miles on it yet(3500) but it hasn't used any oil in the last 2000 miles. I am using Amsoil MCV 20w50. The oil was changed at 250 with dino and then at 1000 with the Amsoil. The first couple hundred miles on the syn I added 6 oz total and then have not added any since then. I run it pretty hard and only get some misting in the intake. | ||
| Bearly |
I use the Gold HD Synthetic, but I don't use that much old. I did have to add some when I took a 3500 mile trip last April but I think that if I had left for the trip with the oil at the top of the fill line, I would have had to do that. I left for the trip just putting 2.5 quarts in and having the oil at about an 1/8 to a 1/4 up the level indicator. Dumb but my first stop after changing was our meeting point the first morning, but I didn't have to add any for three days. Just my 2¢ | ||
| Buellmeister57 |
Try Amsoil.. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I think I might just do that. I was thinking either the Amsoil or the Royal Purple. | ||
| Davo |
If the prescribed amount of oil is added the hot oil level will be on the second X from the bottom of the stick. The cold mark will show low. If you fill above the second X when hot then the oil will be consumed by the engine. Also, The Treadmarks valve seal observation reveals many answers to the compression, oil consumption and pre-ignition issues that were discussed in the past 18 months. | ||
| Treadmarks |
Also, The Treadmarks valve seal observation reveals many answers to the compression, oil consumption and pre-ignition issues that were discussed in the past 18 months. Right on Davo. On a side note, it is killin me looking at my juggless babe sittin in the garage. NRHS is doin up the heads and 1250 kit, including a change in guide and seal design. I will post some before and after shots when they get here. (Message edited by TREADMARKS on June 27, 2007) | ||
| Arcticktm |
Juggless babe? Are we talking about Buells or old girlfriends? | ||
| Dickc |
Davo When I add oil hot I fill until it comes to approximately the bottom of the top X. Are you saying I'm adding to much oil? Dickc | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Yep. If you are checking the oil hot and it's low, the oil you are adding is cold. As it expands, it vaporizes and is sucked into the intake track. I never fill up to more than 1/3 to 1/2 way up the full stick. | ||
| L_je |
"Bottom of the top X"... Oh, no, don't fill it up that high. Get the bike up to operating temperature, and with the ignition off, verify that the oil is 1/3 to 1/2 way up the series of X's. Don't try to get it above half-way. Remember that the oil res has a very high aspect ratio, and a simple 10% change in density due to temperature will cause a lot of variation in the oil level. Don't be obsessive about the oil level. Got oil? Good, move on. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
It will take a lot to get the oil level low enough so that the oil "idiot light" comes on. | ||
| Davo |
Dickc, It is my opinion as well that you are over filling it. If you fill to the top X when hot you will constantly use the oil down to the second or third X from the bottom. This is something the XB guys found out a long time ago and passed it on to Uly owners. For your next oil change put exactly 2.5 quarts with a new filter and check the level when hot. That is your top off mark. Treadmarks, I have been following your posts very closely and I think your on to something. I am convinced that you found the missing pieces to the compression puzzle. Thanks! check out 12/28/06 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142838/248533.html?1167335189 (Message edited by davo on June 27, 2007) | ||
| Brad1445 |
mine leaks too much oil to tell if it burns any. OIl Cooler time after time, now oil filter. | ||
| Davo |
Brad, your problems should be an easy fix. I would just tighten the lines and filter. Some owners have found the oil line fittings a bit on the loose side. | ||
| Treadmarks |
check out 12/28/06 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/248533.html?1167335189 Davo, I remember reading all pinging threads and followed all your troubleshooting stories. But, since I didn't have pinging back then I was not that concerned about it happening to me. Right up to the end I didn't have any pinging, but then I started hearing the jingle just over 3000 under load. I also had a slight power loss and more sneezing and coughing than usual. New plugs didn't help it. I always ran my oil level just below half on the dipstick, and never had to add any, but like I said I change alot. I have American Sport Bikes open air kit with the hoses relocated to the tail of the bike, so intake contamination from oil mist was not an issue. I have never touched or checked my timing. Some observations during the teardown: Black carbon inside the intake, from the injector to the valve. Slight intake/throttle body seal leaks on front and rear. Hard carbon piled up on the back of the intake valve like a dirt clod. Fresh shiny oil on the intake valve stem running down to the carbon build up on the back of the valve. Hard carbon deposits had fallen from the back of the intake valve, and lodged between the valve and head preventing it from closing all the way, allowing ignition of the incoming fuel charge inside the intake port. Considerable carbon deposits on the combustion side of the intake valve and on the top of the piston. Carbon deposits in the combustion chamber had alot of sharp/rough edges. The cavity inside the intake valve seal was full of oil, while the exhaust valve seal cavity was totally dry. Exhaust valve color (white/tan), spark plug read (slightly lean) and fact that the exhaust valve seal melted/burnt/stuck to the exhaust valve guide makes me believe the head temps were getting pretty high. But it will all be better soon. | ||
| Bearly |
Gees Treadmarks, how many miles on your ULY, I hope it was a lot? | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
The service manual calls for 2.5 QTs of oil. Does that include the 4oz you put in the filter? In other words, does it take 2.5QTs + 4oz or 2.5QTs total? | ||
| Treadmarks |
Gees Treadmarks, how many miles on your ULY, I hope it was a lot? About 8000.  | ||
| Etennuly |
JohnnyLB, 2 1/2 qts includes the filter oil. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I broke mine in the Motoman method with no regrets. I never add between oil changes, about every 1000 to 1500 miles. I am pretty easy on the engine though. I've got about 6,000 miles and lots of tread on rear original tire. It's never been on a track, but I'd like to try it out. Need the protective clothing though. Oh, yeah, automotive synthetic Mobil 1 15W50. I've been using that exclusively in all my motorcycles for quite a few years and like the results. (Message edited by electraglider_1997 on June 28, 2007) | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
Thanks EtennUly, the manual had me a bit confusticated. | ||
| Iugradmark |
Treadmarks, As I recall your earlier posts, you have discovered that Buell made some kind of change to the design of the rings or something that is likely to create serious problems for sludge and carbon build-up. Have you dug any further into this? Can we get someone from Buell to respond? | ||
| Treadmarks |
I heard here on badweb that Buell changed the part numbers for the heads, from 06 to 07. I'd like to think it was to change the valve guide seal design, but who knows? There is no way I'm taking my bike to the local stealer to put it back together like it was. I am committed to resolve this the old fashioned way, with the help of fellow badwebbers!  |
