| Author | Message | ||
     Jhuppdog |
Is the front rotor mounting hardware from EBR worth the money? I am thinking about replacing the stock hardware on my '08. I am having issues with the front brake pulsating real bad under braking so I am going to be replacing the stock brake pads with some Ferodo pads I got from another member. Hopefully this will solve the pulsating issue and I thought I would do hardware upgrade while I am up there working. | ||
| D_adams |
Yep. Rotor, 2015 pads, new hardware. | ||
| Jdugger |
Take a picture of your rotor and post it. The issue might not be the rotor. | ||
| Jhuppdog |
I'll try and take a pic of the rotor over the weekend. I don't think the rotor is the problem. From what I understand the stock pads have been known to pulsate and not clean themselves off correctly. I plan on doing more track days this year so it sounded like the the EBR mounting hardware would be beneficial at the track. | ||
| Cataract2 |
You really don't need to replace the rotor. It is certainly not warped. Go ahead and replace the pads and use some steel wool on the rotor. Should clean it right up. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Most of the "pulsing" has been deposits on cold rotors. If you ride in the city, periodically re-bed your brakes on a regular schedule. you decide when... Slow to 10-20mph from 70-100mph a few times to "clean up" the pads and rotor. hard If you do it near dark, the rotor will start to glow a dull red. Everybody bitches about no rear brakes, mine lock-up easily. too easily sometimes. I try not to ride in traffic, but... Hell, I can still stop fine while my Uly is leaking fork oil EVERYWHERE(ZTL-6 piston) ... she gets fixed Sunday. Z | ||
| Jdugger |
> it sounded like the the EBR mounting > hardware would be beneficial at the track. There's no question it's better. The EBR kit mounts the rotor with a float that uses the wheel as a heat-sink. It makes a big difference when you are using the brakes to the point heat accumulation is an issue for the system. In my unscientific opinion, you will start to find that limit when you are an "upper intermediate" rider. Until then, the best upgrade you can make is Motul RBF600 fluid, 2-3 times a year. A better master cyl will also help your confidence on the brakes, but again, I think you can get by without it until you carrying a good pace in the intermediate group. Good fluid is the most important first upgrade. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Never had a problem from new with my stock 2005 XB9SX setup, even after track days. Had the problem from the moment I bought a 2007 XB12X (used). I tried a bunch of stuff and could frequently chase the pulsing mostly away, but it would return after a few rides. That included switching to Lyndall Gold pads. Put on the EBR rotor and hardware and it has been perfect ever since (lots of miles of all sorts of riding in all sorts of conditions). | ||
| Jhuppdog |
Jdugger - Thanks for the info. I was planning on upgrading the brake fluid when I changed the pads. I am in the "B" group for NESBA and hope to moving into "I" group sometime this summer. I would love to upgrade to a better master cylinder and EBR front rotor but those items are a little too expensive right now. I am trying to do some less expensive mods to the bike to make it more track ready. Maybe next year I can make some more upgrades. | ||
| 99buellx1 |
If using the stock mounting setup, be sure to clean behind each mount point, if grime and brake dust builds up it can keep it from floating freely. Don't miss the hole for the spring. | ||
| Rodrob |
...and don't over torque the bolts. That can cause the rotor to bind. Go around the wheel and slowly loosen each bolt one at a time. I you hear a "tink" or "clunk" as you loosen, it means that the rotor was bound and loosening the bolt allowed it to free up. | ||
| Steeleagle |
I've done new pads, the cleaning, scuffing, re-torquing and verifying that the rotor floats but still have the surging. I've loosely checked lateral runout for warping and it seems in spec. I've been lurking waiting for someone to post "the cure" before I replace things but... The odd thing is I never feel the pulsing at the brake lever, leading me to think it's NOT a warping issue. Any additional thoughts? | ||
| Ratsmc |
It looks like the brake mounting hardware is currently out of stock. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I tried it all on my Uly, and it wasn't until I got the EBR rotor that it went away. I was skeptical because I had an 05 9sx that went like 30,000 miles with a stock rotor and no issues at all, even when I purposely cooked the brakes once to get some data to try and win a bet for a pizza here on Badweb.  I still don't know what the difference was, but the EBR rotor sorted it right out. | ||
| Jhuppdog |
Last weekend I was able to work on the bike to try and fix the issues I was having with the front brake. We took the front caliper apart and cleaned it, installed ferodo pads, used a drill and wire cup brush to clean the front rotor and put new motul rbf600 brake fluid in it. We also checked the rotor and it seems to be floating properly. I was able to take the bike out today for the first long ride to really test the brakes. The pulsing has been significantly reduced but it is still there. I did quite a few 60-0 stops to try and clean the rotor but it still has a slight pulse. At this point I am thinking I need a new rotor. Any other ideas? Pic of the rotor now  | ||
| Jdugger |
Do some 100-0 stops. Keep doing them until a golden hue appears on the edges of the rotor. If it still pulses after that, replace. | ||
| Jhuppdog |
Once the weather clears I'll take the bike out and try some more stops as suggested. I have a little time since EBR is still out of stock on the front rotor. They are supposed to be getting some more in soon. I have until April 5th to get this resolved as I have 3 track days starting April 6th. | ||
| Blake |
What JD said, and who the heck cares if a brake "has a slight pulse"??? Seriously! Why is a slight pulsing under light to moderate braking even anything to car about? It almost always due to deposits on the rotor. Ride the bike and enjoy life. Stop fretting about stuff that doesn't matter. | ||
| Sportster_mann |
In the UK a bike can fail its annual test because of this ... ... no certificate, no riding ! | ||
| Jhuppdog |
The reason I am so concerned with this is because last October I took the bike to the track for my first track day and the front brake got much worse as the day went on. It got so bad that the bike would shake when braking at all speed levels. It made it very difficult to try and brake properly when coming into the turns. I don't want this to happen again so I am trying to fix the problem so I can enjoy the track and work on my riding skills and becoming a smoother track rider. | ||
| Jdugger |
The go ahead and replace it. Less than $200. | ||
| Cravacor |
I don't like my brakes pulsating (not pulsing). I installed a new EBR rotor and hardware and the problem went away. Why listen to others who tell you it is nothing to be concerned about? It is your bike, make it ride the way YOU want it to ride. | ||
| Froggy |
Blake, I take it you have never ridden with a pulsing brake. In very minor cases it is just an annoyance, but if it gets bad enough it negatively affects your braking and can cause a nasty and dangerous shuddering effect that upsets the bike. | ||
| Blake |
He said "a slight pulse." I've been on the race track with brake chatter so bad it felt like the front was about to tear loose. Unevenly worn pads. I get a slight pulse from time to time on my truck and the Uly. In both cases it's only even noticeable under light braking, and in both cases putting enough heat into the brakes eliminates the slight pulsing. Slight pulsing is often just uneven deposits. They can self clean if enough heat is generated. ALWAYS take a spare fresh set of brake pads to the track. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Like I, Jim Dugger and others have said... these ARE good brakes but you have to maintain them. If they aren't working properly, it's time to re-bed. If you're not RACING, periodically re-bed the brakes to clean them of deposits. It's a simple 10 minute operation... do it. On another note, keep track of your tire pressure. For twisties or a track day - 34-36 front-rear. For commuting... I give both 50lbs. Ride it like ya stole it. Zack | ||
| Kanatuna |
My bike was doing this. I took the rotor off and cleaned it using a medium prep pad on an angle grinder. I cleaned the hardware and used anti-seize on the spring. Worked great after that. | ||
| Jhuppdog |
Update: I was able to buy and install the EBR race rotor and hardware prior to running the three track days and I couldn't be happier. The pulsing has gone away and the bike has great stopping power. I couldn't be happier with the change. If your thinking about buying the race rotor and hardware I highly suggest it. Thank to all for your advice. | ||
| Deeds |
Sorry to resurrect the thread, but I am going to change to the EBR mounting hardware tomorrow on my '07XBX. I just want to be clear on the procedure. Remove bolts with manual impact hammer, clean mounting points, new hardware, blue Loctite, tighten (how many ft. lbs.?). | ||
| Diozark |
Abrasive Pad works good too, clean the rotors up, get the surface rust off. Two pack at the hardware store, 8 bucks look were the sandpaper products off, I think it says removes rust on the label. |
