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Raincitybuell
Posted on Saturday, April 06, 2019 - 01:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi all. I only have experience with tuber Buells, but been eyeing the later models (1190 RS/RX/SX). I was wondering, with the budget constraints, liquidation and whatever other issues, did build quality/reliability vary by year of manufacture? Are there any models/years to stay away from, or ones you would recommend? Looking for a bike to keep long term. Thanks!
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Shoggin
Posted on Saturday, April 06, 2019 - 03:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The very early 2014 bikes had some minor differences, all of which can be easily updated.
Some I wouldn't bother (2 piece tail) others are almost free (dash update, starter o-ring).

FYI:
The step from a Tuber to an 1190 is like trading in your trusty old sports car for the Millennium Falcon with the fuse lit. You'll never have so much fun while simultaneously crapping yourself. I just had a friend who owns a 2016 BMW S1000R ride my SX. He came back and just said "Jesus H Christ!"

For what's considered an old bike now in the hyper competitive Superbike market, the torque curve absolutely SMASHES every other bike from its idle to its redline at 10,500.
Have fun: )
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Ggggary
Posted on Saturday, April 06, 2019 - 08:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I took the plunge and started riding the 2 mile 2014 SX. My new riding boots must be defective, at 250 miles my right boot started leaking oil, it got all the way back to the rear tire. Red Cross loaned me an 8mm and I tightened the "just above finger tight" bolts on the clutch cover, leak stopped. I am now past 300 miles and can rev to 7K woot woot! Only other issue so far is an occasional acceleration stumble if it's been idling or at low RPM for a bit. Clutch is a BIT stiff, but since I'm not a city rider it's manageable.
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1_mike
Posted on Saturday, April 06, 2019 - 11:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

RCB -

Do NOT...wimp-out and put the light duty clutch spring in. You'll regret it in the end.
Just do some hand/finger exercises. I drove my RX 82 miles a day with the stock clutch assembly in L.A. traffic. Until I retired anyway.
Just, get used to it..!

Mike
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Froggy
Posted on Saturday, April 06, 2019 - 01:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

For what it is worth I don't regret putting the lighter clutch springs on my 2014. While I could live with the stock heavy ones, the lighter springs do make it more pleasant to ride.

Most of the bikes you find will be 2014s, as that was the biggest year of production.
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Shoggin
Posted on Saturday, April 06, 2019 - 01:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I put the Oberon clutch slave in thinking WTF did I spend $140?

Besides the quick shifter, it is the BEST mod I have done to it. I used a luggage scale and read HALF the pull force with the stock springs in the clutch. It was my only choice, since I added the APH pipe and IDS ECM I didn't want to increase power and reduce clutch strength...

Clutch pull was almost identical pounds as my STT with a brand new cable on it: ) A world of difference.
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1_mike
Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2019 - 01:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A side note to Shoggin's comment about the BMW to the EBR...

I actually traded a BMW S1000RR that I drove for almost three years back and forth to work (about 82 miles) every day for a new 2014 EBR RX to use as my daily driver.

Well, from my perspective, in no way was it a revelation like the above noted.

The EBR's low rpm power was a much the same, the "mid range" torque was a little better, the upper rpm power was fairly comparable to the BMW. But...I also did some tuning to the BMW to get rid of the crappy factory tuning required to sell them in California..! I had not yet re-tuned the EBR for the same problem. While the EBR felt a little heavier, in SoCal freeway traffic, it handled/drove different than the BMW. Not as good in some respects, better in some respects.

After some retuning of the EBR, the overall power was better. The lower rpm power was better than the BMW, the mid range was close enough that without driving them one right after the other, was impossible to give a winning score. The upper rpm power was different. The BMW needed to be in the correct gear, the EBR could be in a couple of gears to be somewhat the same. BUT, with the bikes in equal (4th to 4th or 5th to 5th), the BMW would win the roll-on test "in" the upper rpm ranges. Pretty close to each other in the lower rpm ranges.
If the BMW was in a higher gear (4th rather than 3rd), the EBR was the easy winner, roll-on wise.

There was no "clear" winner or loser, except in braking. I'd take the BMW S1000RR's brakes EVERY time.

Transmission wise, also no winner. Both smooth, easy to shift...with or without the clutch.

The BMW was the winner for ease of maintenance. One oil drain plug, the filter was a snap, VERY little to clean on the engine. The valve adjustment "process", while still a pain, was much easier on the BMW.

All that said, overall, I was happier on the EBR, except valve adjustment time and cleaning the air filter about 6 times to the BMW's 1 !

That's my experience of daily driving a BMW S1000RR vs. an EBR 1190 RX, 82ish miles a day, 5 and 6 times a week in Los Angeles freeway traffic.

Mike
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