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Jsunstar
Posted on Monday, December 30, 2002 - 06:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

OK fellas, heres on for you.
i have a complete top end thunderstorm setup (heads, jugs, pistons, pushrods and cams) coming in a few days. (got it from sportster.org, you never know what you will find... i plan to put this all in my 94 sportster 1200 . (i know, i would put em in the buell but its already got go fast goodys in there). it seems like a bolt on process but i just want to know if anyone has any advice in doing this.
this is my first venture in doing something so big but im really, really looking forward to it, im a decent wrencher and i have a decent amount of common sense so i think it shouldnt be too hard. i have a sportster hop-up book so if i run into any snags, i may be able to figure it out. im sure ill need the ignition so im looking now, it got a stock one in it so i guess ill have to change it. thats all i can think of...
any other things ill need to consider??
any help is greatly appreciated.
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Stormfool
Posted on Monday, December 30, 2002 - 07:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

According to something I read in Battle2win Mag--it's always good to check the squish betwixt piston and head--you can use some clay or some large gauge soldering wire held in place with a little grease. Cycle piston up and down and dissassemble to see if it is making contact with the gauge wire/clay--and to what degree--the actual specs are in the article if you have it--I can find it if not. Also good to check endgap on the rings by inserting into bore--as there can be some power gained by file-fit rings.
The idea is to have exactly the correct/minimum squish between piston and head allowing for heat expansion/ ditto rings.
Experts like Wes Brown have intimate knowledge of how to reshape the chamber/ports to maximize a variety of combustion characteristics, and it may be worth your while to give Cyclerama in Pinellas Park a call and chat him up about your project...
I don't pretend to be an expert on these things--just passing along some pretty basic info available to any...
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Forevernow
Posted on Monday, December 30, 2002 - 07:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

on the v twin cafe websight they claim that blending the valve seats into the ports,a good five angle valve job,and better aftermarket valves (like the ones from nallin racing)can help alot,i was going to try this stuff before my motor went back together but i figured i would just wait until i had the cash for stage 2 head work,setting a tight squish should help prevent detonation and gain power
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Jsunstar
Posted on Monday, December 30, 2002 - 10:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

good, good. keep em coming, im taking notes!!!!!
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Cyclone1
Posted on Tuesday, December 31, 2002 - 12:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

MAKE SURE you have a service manual (I shouldn't have to say this, but better safe than sorry). Use James base gaskets cause I guaran-damn-tee ya the paper ones will leak sooner or later. Same with the rocker boxes. Current Harley rocker box gaskets are metal, and we haven't seen a problem out of them yet, so I think they will work just fine. You shouldn't "have to" clay the pistons for this, but it doesn't hurt anything either. If you're running stock Buell cams, anyways. Make sure you put a lil oil on the rings before you put the jugs on and stagger the rings like it says in the book. Also, before you pull the old pistons off, stuff some CLEAN rags around the rods, so you don't lose a piston pin clip in the case..(bad thing ;) ) How many miles you got on the motor? I'd consider replacing the hydraulic lifters while you're in there. I usually get a small squirt can of oil, and squirt into the small hole on the side, until u see oil coming out the top. It's a one way valve, so it won't work the other way around ;) I don't think it matter which way the holes go, but double check me. They want them all facing the same way (all to the inside, or all pointing to the outside). That should help a lil. Just holler, if you need more info...

Frank
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Spiderman
Posted on Tuesday, December 31, 2002 - 11:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Squish is a good idea but if you are running a stock set up. Crank, heads and pistons no need. BUT If you are going to use it on your Sporty I would just as a percaution. Make sure you properly end gap the rings. Tourqe down the heads properly. Shim the cams FOR THE LOVE OF GOD shim the cams (only if they need it of course ;) )
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Anonymous
Posted on Tuesday, December 31, 2002 - 11:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

One thing that we budget conscious owners need to consider is lower end balance. If lighter pistons are used the idle and cruising vibration will rise but top end will be smoother. The opposite is true if heavier pistons are used.

An engine whose pistons are replaced w/o weight and balance consideration will feel different. As long as the piston weight changes are small no durability issues need be considered.

Proper balance will release more power since forces are used to spin not wobble. With forces increasing with the square of the velocity (rpm) little weight variations can be noticed as big vibration increases.
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Mightymouse
Posted on Tuesday, December 31, 2002 - 12:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Be sure to SLOWLY tighten the rocker box bolts, so as to avoid the possibility of forcing a valve into a piston due to a "pumped up" hydraulic lifter. Its been years since I read an HD service manual, but I think there are instructions to tighten each rocker box bolt one quarter turn at a time to allow the lifter time to bleed down.
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Jsunstar
Posted on Tuesday, December 31, 2002 - 02:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

you guys (and girls?) are like the big brothers i never had.
i didnt know alot of this info. i have a sportster manual and a sportster performance manual. i have to read the manual still and take my notes. ive read the perf manual for the most part, i just need to focus on the building part of the book.
i also have to get a few tools.
Will i have to do much with the front motor mount or are they going to be similar?
whats your take on replacing the ignition module? im getting the part that goes in the ignition cover on the right side with the setup, im not sure what to do with that...
a little higher rpm would probably be nice...
keep em coming, im writing...
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Jdbuellx1
Posted on Tuesday, December 31, 2002 - 04:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You'll get it together, no problem. I never touched a Harley engine before I got my Buell and found it to be the easiest top end job I've ever done. Just be patient with the rocker box.
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Sportyeric
Posted on Wednesday, January 01, 2003 - 12:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You'll have to drill the left(?) side hole of your motor mount bigger. It might even be wise to start that bolt before you put the head on. I don't remember.
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Jrh
Posted on Wednesday, January 01, 2003 - 09:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

A year or two ago CycleWorld magazine did a thunderstorm top end replacement on a Sportster in their annual Harley Performance special issue.I must have given mine away,but maybe someone else here has one.?
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Cyclone1
Posted on Friday, January 03, 2003 - 09:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Sportyeric is right. Buell's use bigger bolts (3/8" I believe). Sportsters have a stud that comes out on the left side. So you'll have to get a couple of bolts to put in and perhaps drill the holes out in the brackets. MAKE SURE you get about a grade 8 bolt. Not as critical on a sporty, but better safe than sorry ;)

Frank
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Roc
Posted on Friday, January 03, 2003 - 12:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I use assembly grease on contact points, metal on metal, to ease my mental state when I first start up the bike. Also, Aaron once told me to put the piston in the cylinder on a bench - compressing the rings with your fingers - and then to put it on the bike as an assembly. Taking care of the wrist pins and circlips is much easier with a cylinder kind of in the way than trying to compress the rings and get the cylinder in place once the piston is installed.
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