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Big_jim59
Posted on Monday, January 07, 2019 - 10:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My 2002 Buell M2 Cyclone Low seems to steer heavy. Compared to my other bikes (Hondas) I have to force it down into corners. I am not hugely knowledgeable on handling issues. The bike is stiff as hell (you feel ever little bump in the road.) I have backed off the shock a bit without effect. It's still a fun ride but it seems sluggish and not crisp, if you know what I mean. It could be the weight I am feeling but I just don't know.
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Ebutch
Posted on Monday, January 07, 2019 - 11:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They should handle very good.Check air pressure in tires.
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Gusm2
Posted on Tuesday, January 08, 2019 - 01:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Also check the headstock bearings and front engine mount where it bolts to the cylinder head
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H0gwash
Posted on Tuesday, January 08, 2019 - 09:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A friend asked me to test ride his Katana because I also had one. His steering was stiff and it turned out his triple clamp was overtightened. IMHO you have to push Sportster based bikes just a bit harder into the corners than the Japanese bikes, but not by a whole lot.
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Big_jim59
Posted on Tuesday, January 08, 2019 - 10:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good points. I am running 36 PSI front and 38 PSI rear. I have replaced both front and rear engine mounts. I have not checked the steering head bearings but I will. In my experience worn steering head bearing manifest themselves with a notchey feel or a feel of not wanting to come back once turned in. My Buell only feels heavy not particularly bad. Maybe steering head bearings are in order?
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Jayvee
Posted on Thursday, January 10, 2019 - 11:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the front fork is 'stiff as hell', could also check Fork pre-load? Old,bad, or wrong weight Fork Oil? Fender mount doesn't mis-align the forks?
The height of the forks in the triple clamps was 'wrong' when I got my used M2. That changes the geometry/handling too. I had to replace fork seals, and afterward the suspension was just better overall.
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Saturday, January 12, 2019 - 12:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Has it always felt sluggish or is this a new development.

Typically slow and sluggish feeling is due to maladjustment of the suspension.

The bike will become more sluggish as rake angle increases. Buell rake angles are some of the steepest (smallest) in the business. A small increase can create a big difference.

If it's always felt sluggish I'd be looking to see if you have an M2L rear shock with standard forks.

If it's a recent development, I'd be looking to a mismatch in preload settings front to rear.

Start by checking sag.
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Big_jim59
Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2019 - 01:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It has always felt sluggish. It has, according to what I have read, the latest and greatest rear shock iteration.
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2019 - 02:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Then I would look to see if someone mixed and matched.
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Big_jim59
Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2019 - 02:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's the feeling. I have to push the Buell just a bit harder into the corners than my Japanese bikes! I have to push it down harder to execute a turn. If all you ride is a Buell you will not notice this.
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2019 - 04:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Photos might help.

Have some folks with M2Ls can probably tell pretty quickly qhat you're looking at.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, January 13, 2019 - 11:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Slow steering is a nose-high problem. You either have too much rear sag, or too much front preload.

Start simple - check tire pressures first.

You have a fully adjustable suspension, and you should be able to make it handle like its on rails. "Too hard" is a damping issue. Get your owners manual, and read the suspension section. Check your rear spring sag per the manual, and adjust as needed. Then, turn both rear screws all the way out till they lightly stop. Turn each one in about six clicks to start with, and see how it does.

Put a zip tie on one of the front forks, above the dust seal, and go for a spirited ride. The zip tie should get pushed just about all the way up...but not quite. Figure - unless you're REALLY hammering it - about 1.5 inches of unused travel. Adjust your preload until you get this (see the manual for how). Then, same deal on the compression and rebound screws - all the way out, then go in between 4 and 6 clicks on each, ride, and see how it does.

These bikes should drop into a turn like nobody's business. UJMs have it for shift smoothness and engine smoothness (IL4s are always smoother than big honkin' twins), but Buells have it all over the UJMs for out of the box handling...but you have to set it up for your personal size and weight.

Make a single adjustment at a time, and make notes for how many clicks you are in/out on each setting. That way you can reset anytime you need to.
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Screamer
Posted on Monday, January 14, 2019 - 08:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

“Too hard” can also be excessive compression.
Checking sag is a good recommendation.
Because of the distance the isolators compress when checking sag, the recommendation in later tubeframe Service Manuals as to measure shock stretch for more accuracy.
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Big_jim59
Posted on Friday, April 19, 2019 - 10:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK, I have been away for a while with house issue but I am going to try and tackle this. I love riding the Buell but I just can stand having to herd it around corners. Oh, I had to take the bike in for a state inspection and noticed that the Continental on the rear is to the wear bars. (It passed inspection but it should not have done.)
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89rs1200
Posted on Saturday, April 20, 2019 - 10:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tires wear "flat" in the center dramatically change cornering. GET NEW TIRES FIRST! Likely your problem.
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Ggggary
Posted on Saturday, April 20, 2019 - 11:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mr. obvious sez; double check your tire pressure........
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Upthemaiden
Posted on Monday, April 22, 2019 - 08:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I haven't ridden an M2 low, but I did used to have the XB9s low, and that suspension was so harsh. The bikes get lowered by shortening the suspension travel, so it's just going to be a rougher ride by nature. I eventually switched mine to the regular suspension and it felt so much nicer.

I'd start with the rear tire first, when lift the front end off the ground to see how smoothly the front end moves to make sure the front bearings aren't shot or out of adjustment.
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Williamscottrobertson
Posted on Friday, April 26, 2019 - 10:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The rear tire on my Blast didn’t look bad but it handled heavy for a Blast. Fine in a straight line but took a little coaxing to get it to turn then felt kind of squirrelly. New tires and the problem went away.
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Big_jim59
Posted on Friday, July 05, 2019 - 08:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The problem was the tire. I replaced the worn out Continental with a new Shinko 009. What a different. It's not light handling because it is a heavy bike but it will turn corners now with ease.
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