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Upthemaiden
Posted on Thursday, January 24, 2019 - 08:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anyone here with the S1/X1 bank shifter able to give me a little help? I picked one up last year but it wasn't until I had already made the deal that I realized it was the GP shift version. I'm going to try to order a piece of aluminum and try to cut another lever in the normal shape so my shifting goes back to normal. I can copy all of the dimensions from mine, but the one thing I'm missing is the angle at the pivot. Would anyone be so kind as to measure the distance from the center of the pivot/bearing to the center of the upper hole(red line in the picture), as well as the center of the toe peg hole to the center of the top hole(green line in the picture), it'd be a huge help. It looks like the angle is ever so slightly less than 90 degrees, but it's hard to tell from a picture.

At the same time, if any of the forum regulars are interested in just swapping their regular lever for my GP shift lever, I could be interested in that as well.




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S1owner
Posted on Thursday, January 24, 2019 - 08:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Guess I am confused the only difference in gp to standard is flipping the upper part of the shift linkage around? May need a longer tie bar but that’s all? Unless banke really got crazy with over designing.
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Upthemaiden
Posted on Thursday, January 24, 2019 - 09:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well first of all, let me apologize for never learning how to use photoshop. I use use Microsoft paint, so just work with me here haha.

I've definitely thought about that, and I thought about making a longer connecting rod and trying to flip it. I know people have talked about doing that with the updated X1 shifter and the XB shifters. The levers on those are short though. I feel like distance between the pivots and the holes for the rod are too far apart, and wouldn't really be effective. I'll have to try it, but I'm also not even sure if the banke linkage would fit in the reverse direction without hitting the clutch cover. I know when you set up shifters you're supposed to try to keep the angles of the connecting rod as close to 90 degrees as you can get. With how long the front part of the shifter is(almost 3" from pivot to heim), that'll put the connecting rod closer to 45 degrees, and I feel like it's going to make the shifting feel horrible. The lever will be pushing up, and the rod will be moving back. I know angling the piece on the shift rod down will help with keeping it from hitting the clutch cover, but moving that mounting hole down is only going to make the angle at the shift lever even sharper. I agree it's worth a try to see what it does, but I'm not picturing it feeling as smooth as it should.








Compare that to the parts on the updated X1 shifter, and you can see mine would at more than double the angle.



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S1owner
Posted on Thursday, January 24, 2019 - 10:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ahhh ok so the first pic was an example not your shifter and the above pic is your gp shifter. I get it that front is way forward to give straight push in gp poaition.
Its worth a try to rotate the linkage and see if it works smooth. Otherwise worst case If you dont want to machine a new piece I would weld in the end and remachine it closer.
Otherwise I am sure engineered velocity or purpony would sell just the shifter to make it work for you. Like mine below.




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Upthemaiden
Posted on Thursday, January 24, 2019 - 12:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Correct, first picture is just one I pulled from google, second one is my bike. 3rd is another picture from Google. Maybe I'll try making another connecting rod and see how it works before I start putting time and money into something more elaborate. I think I might have what I need to make one, so it wouldn't cost anything. The aluminum I need to make a new lever isn't too bad, about $15, then I'll need to find a 7/8" drill bit for the bearing hole. Time is the big issue. 2yo and a 6mo old, garage time is a luxury right now.

That lever looks great. Still working on learning how to weld steel, haven't gotten to aluminum yet.
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Jayvee
Posted on Thursday, January 24, 2019 - 04:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just thinking out loud but if you could attach the bottom end of the shift shaft linkage rod to the other side of the gp shifter, that could work. Either bolt (or weld) on a boss for the linkage rod onto the shifter on the peg side of the pivot, or could drill a hole for a bushing or bearing to connect it too.
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S1owner
Posted on Thursday, January 24, 2019 - 05:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good thought Jayvee you triggered my memory!

Here is your solution
Drill and tap a hole for a forward pivot




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Upthemaiden
Posted on Thursday, January 24, 2019 - 10:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's a good idea, of all of the aftermarket shifters I've seen, that style is usually my favorite. I'm not sure my lever has enough meat in that area for the hole, but I'll give it a better look.

I do have some spare aluminum though, so I think for now maybe I'll cut a piece to fit in that forward most cutout so I can move the rod back, and use the XB piece to go on the shift shaft, so it'll work more like how yours is set up.

The one thing I do notice from looking at all of these pictures, is that most people seem to adjust their levers so they angle up at the rear, while mine is angled down. Maybe everyone else is wearing thicker boots than I am. Who knows, not really important, just caught my eye.
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S1owner
Posted on Thursday, January 24, 2019 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mine is adjusted so far up that the back is milled out to not contact the derby cover. This is all adjusted for foot comfort, oh and the big ass steel toe boots I wear when I ride! Lol



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Ratbuell
Posted on Thursday, January 24, 2019 - 11:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have you run the adjustments on the shifter rod (the 2 heim joints) out, as long as they'll go? Those things are pretty damned long inside...or, you could get some longer heim joints or use the ones from your stock linkage, with the Banke lever.
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Upthemaiden
Posted on Friday, January 25, 2019 - 08:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Have you run the adjustments on the shifter rod (the 2 heim joints) out, as long as they'll go? "

Do you mean in reference to what I said about mine being angled down while others are angled up? I intentionally adjusted mine down, it's where it feels comfortable to me, I was just surprised that so many other people like theirs that much higher. I assume it's a combination of my boots, (usually Doc Martens, or just some Sidi racing boots if I'm not going to be doing any real walking, both of which are pretty slim) and the fact that my bike likes a firm shift, so the lower position helps make sure the lever get pushed through it's full motion.
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Akbuell
Posted on Friday, January 25, 2019 - 09:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"My bike likes a firm shift" is why I converted my bike(s) to GP shifting. Makes upshifts easy and smooth, and downshifts are, for me, an activity that is not as crucial to my riding style. If that makes sense . . .
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Upthemaiden
Posted on Friday, January 25, 2019 - 10:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It actually makes perfect sense. I thought of that as soon as I started using it. I always put extra thought into my upshifts, and I thought it'd make life easier to just be able to stomp on the lever. Unfortunately 20 years of shifting normally, just makes it feel counterintuitive.
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Akbuell
Posted on Friday, January 25, 2019 - 12:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There is a learning curve. I realize my error about half way through clutch release that I shifted the wrong way. GP shifting very quickly becomes 'normal'. The big problem is in getting on a 'regular' bike and going up to upshift; lots of having to remember which shift pattern you are using at the moment.
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