| Author | Message | ||
     Mhlunsford |
I am considering progressive fork springs for my 2000 M2. Anyone one have any insight to this ? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Make sure you get the right weight range for your rider weight. But...why? If you're pushing the bike hard enough to need progressive springs, just swap to an X1/S1/S3 or XB front end with USD forks. About the biggest thing you'll change as an everyday rider by going to progressives will be brake nosedive. Does it bother you enough to tear the front end apart? | ||
| Jayvee |
I replaced my M2 front springs a few years ago to HyperPro progressive wound springs, Twin MC has them. Were about $160 a then. But very easy to install, like 4 bolts?. Seems like it helped a lot. Even just commuting. Roads here have a lot of bumps, so on mine it helped more than just nosedive. I recommend them highly, for the $/time invested the improvement is worth it. Race Tech sells straight wound, so you have to know what weight spring. I bought some of those first, in case anybody needs some. I'll look up the pound #. | ||
| 46champ |
I changed fork springs to whatever Al at American Sport Bike was selling a few years ago. The ride is a little harsher but the the bobing the front end did at speed is gone. I never changed valves probably too late now. | ||
| Mhlunsford |
Jayvee - can you lookup which numbers you have ? According the Race Tech I need .97 or 1kg springs for my weight. I just want something to stop all the nose diving it does now. | ||
| Jayvee |
I'll check what springs I have. The RaceTech Cartridge emulators were also a big improvement, for not too much money. I couldn't believe the difference they made, felt like a different bike. | ||
| Jayvee |
I have the FRSP S3732 .90 kg, and .95 kg. I don't have the .97, or 1.0, sorry. The price for a new set now is 25% less than what I paid. Drat. | ||
| Mhlunsford |
How long did it take to change the springs? | ||
| 46champ |
Takes about 10 minutes longer than changing fork oil | ||
| Mhlunsford |
I got some race tech .95 springs. used an old swing set frame to lift the front of the bike up, removed the fork caps, spacer, and springs used a siphon to remove the old oil(about 8 ounces and foamy), then pumped the valves some to get any old oil out, let the bike down(compressed) and then filled with 30wt(could not find any thing lighter) up to 4.5in from the top. Put in race tech springs which were 3/4in longer than stock, used the original spacers, put the caps back on. Made the adjustments per the manual. Much Much better. No need to remove the forks! (Message edited by mhlunsford on November 06, 2017) |
