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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » M2 Cyclone » Archive through September 21, 2014 » Oil Change « Previous Next »

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Tyler7686
Posted on Saturday, June 21, 2014 - 09:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am new to Buell and own a M2 Cyclone. I do not have a service manual. I just bought the bike so I don't know the last time it was changed. I figured its the first thing I should do. Can you explain how often (miles) and the process of the oil change and the primary change? Thank you.
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Buellistic
Posted on Saturday, June 21, 2014 - 10:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OIL CHANGE Class 101, just PM me for a copy ...

Get a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and a PARTS BOOK for your YEAR/MODEL BUELL ...

Check with Al at www.AmericanSportBike.com ...
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Ratbuell
Posted on Saturday, June 21, 2014 - 11:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There are 2 oils - engine oil lives in a tank under the seat, with a drain hose. Primary oil (clutch/stator/transmission) lives on the left side bottom of the engine, with a drain plug.

5000 mile change interval. I run Harley Syn3 in both holes.

Beyond that...yes, get a shop manual. There *might* be oil change info in your owners manual...but I can't remember because I always use shop manuals.
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Sunday, June 22, 2014 - 10:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

20/50 weight, synth or semi-synth will give you that interval Rat mentioned above.

Warm the engine before checking and or changing the oil or you WILL over-fill it.

Oil seeps down from the reservoir into the case when the bike is parked and your oil will read low when you check it cold.

(Message edited by littlebuggles on June 22, 2014)
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Jayvee
Posted on Thursday, June 26, 2014 - 05:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The drain hose is a good idea, but changing the filter without spilling oil all over the engine is what takes some figuring out.
Supposedly on can cut an empty oil jug (the big 4 or 5 quart ones) or an empty milk jug, and cut it to fit under the oil filter as an improvised catch pan.
Haven't done it myself...
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Bluebueller
Posted on Saturday, June 28, 2014 - 04:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

yeah, the oil filter is always a mess - just like Jayvee says, cut up a cheap plastic jug to fit, and spin it off.

by the way - Ratbuell convinced me to use Syn3 for primary and engine - it has shifted better since, and motor runs like a champ.
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Kenm123t
Posted on Saturday, June 28, 2014 - 07:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

cheat use the larger Dyna filter warm it up drill a hole in lower side of OLD filter and let it drain out till it stops. not as much mess!
And get all Buellistics primers

I kept the accelerator pumps I like the kick Sorry lol
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46champ
Posted on Tuesday, July 01, 2014 - 10:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You can do all of these things to keep from making a mess when you change the filter. Or do what I do put a pan under the filter catch most of the oil, spray Oil Eater on the places the oil collects then wash the bike. IMOP anything else is an exercise in futility.
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