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Gmaan03
Posted on Wednesday, June 15, 2011 - 08:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My X1 is running fine, but the check engine light is on and off, can't make up its mind!
I made a jumper wire per the service manual and checked the trouble codes via flashing instrument light. I cycled thru the codes three times to be sure I had them right.

14 Engine temp sensor
15 Intake Air Temp sensors
33 Fuel pump

I read the manual on how to check and fix the problems, question to you all is any one familiar with the procedures, and might want to lend advice not listed in the manual.
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01x1buell
Posted on Wednesday, June 15, 2011 - 08:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i do not think i can help you , but my cel was doing the same thing and it turned out to be the intake air temp sensor(it was loose) that might help you for one of the problems....i know someone else will know what to tell you goodluck
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Two_seasons
Posted on Wednesday, June 15, 2011 - 08:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Make sure your battery posts are tight.

Loose grounds?
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Snowbees
Posted on Thursday, June 16, 2011 - 04:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i had codes 15 and 33, it was the fuel pump connector needed cleaning (grey wire) and cable tied together, check your connectors, fuse box, and as two seasons said earths , battery terminals.

(Message edited by snowbees on June 16, 2011)
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Akbuell
Posted on Thursday, June 16, 2011 - 08:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

After checking the battery posts and grounds, my vote is the eng temp sensor. When mine failed, I had codes all over the map, none of them being the temp sensor. A call to Al at American Sport Bike convinced me to replace the sensor. Problem solved.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Friday, June 17, 2011 - 10:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The problem is probably chafed wires going to one or more sensors.
Get a good strong light and chase those wires carefully.

It's easier to check your grounds so you should do that FIRST.
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Akbuell
Posted on Friday, June 17, 2011 - 04:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Re Nates comment:

While doing something else, I happened to look at the intake air sensor. Turned out the way the wire had been routed by the factory allowed the sensor wires to rub against the rocker cover. I caught it before it had chaffed through. Might be another place to look.
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Gmaan03
Posted on Sunday, June 26, 2011 - 03:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well I went through the bike today, no loose or chafed wires. One question, the manual tells you how to fix it but you need a "break out box" is there an alternative?
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Two_seasons
Posted on Sunday, June 26, 2011 - 12:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Break-out boxes are typically used so the tech can wring out the wiring, one pin at a time, checking for open wiring.

You could make one, but most that I've used have multiple connectors on them, so you'd need to get the same connectors that are used on your bike(s) and mount them to a shatter-proof plastic utility box. Once mounted, wire the connectors up per the electrical manual.

Next, you'll need to build long enough cables, with matching connectors, to connect between the "break out box" and your existing wiring on the bike.

No small task if you are fat-fingered like me!

The hardest part of this project is simply finding the matching connectors you'll need for the cables and the box.

And one other note. Break out boxes won't help you find an intermittent every time. That's why, on bikes at least, the wiring is fairly simple to wring out, unlike an RV for instance. Always make a copy of the electrical wiring schematic, then as you run your fingers along that wire from end to end, check off that strand and start with another and do the same. AND, always tug on that wire end that goes into the connector. Bow-string tight wiring is a large part of wiring issues with all manufacturers. I've built plenty of wire-wrap wired devices in my time and never made them bow-string tight. Hard to trouble-shoot when you've got problems.
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5liter
Posted on Sunday, June 26, 2011 - 05:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mine was throwing 14 & 33. I changed the engine temp sensor and that did the trick. Don't know why you'd get 33 with a bad temp sensor, but what the heck, it worked.
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Gmaan03
Posted on Sunday, June 26, 2011 - 08:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The engine temp sensor looks like it needs a special wrench?
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5liter
Posted on Monday, June 27, 2011 - 07:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Correct. American Sport Bike has the socket and the sensor.
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Gmaan03
Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2011 - 12:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks, do you know what size? I will just mill a slot thru a deep socket of mine.
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Jramsey
Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2011 - 09:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

1/2"
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Gmaan03
Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2011 - 10:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

great thanks
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Gmaan03
Posted on Friday, July 01, 2011 - 11:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I modified one of my deep sockets so that is done. My bike is running real crappy now! It cuts out under load, idles and starts fine. Any ideas?
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Oldog
Posted on Saturday, July 02, 2011 - 11:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

CHECK THE fuel pump pressure // replace the filter.
check the electrical connector on the pump to harness to be sure it is secure.

it sounds like loss of fuel or ignition
as you have a fuel pump error look there first


(Message edited by oldog on July 02, 2011)
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Gmaan03
Posted on Saturday, July 02, 2011 - 12:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK I will try that today.
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Gmaan03
Posted on Sunday, July 03, 2011 - 04:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well I checked the wires for shorts all ok. Changed the ET and the bike runs good again. Problem is I still have error codes GRRRR.

11, Throttle pos
14, Engine temp sensor
15, Intake air temp
33, Fuel pump
44, Bank angle sensor

The manual requires a friggin break out box to check things, dammit! I guess I will have to bring it in for diagnostics, but at least it runs good again. Any more suggestions?
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Two_seasons
Posted on Sunday, July 03, 2011 - 07:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah, I've got one.

Today, I changed out the engine temperature sensor and the O2 sensor.

The bike runs like new!

If you are experiencing engine stumble/temporary engine shutdown in any gear, but it idles ok, then the engine temperature sensor is dead or dying. I changed out the O2 sensor as well because the Trouble Code indicated that was bad too.

Because you have so many Trouble Codes all at the same time, I'm inclined to believe you have a pin(s) on your ECM that have pushed out. Check your relay/fuse box to, as I had a pin push out the back side of the box after I was checking all the wiring out last week. The bike wouldn't start and I found that out quickly because I remembered where I had last been.

Or maybe something as simple as a ground that is loose. Did you check the ground that is right underneath your rear tank hold-down?

You might want to talk to Al at American Sport Bike and run these codes past him.
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