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Scow1
Posted on Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 10:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just bought a 02 buell lightning x1w that needs a new front rotor. Will a front rotor from a 98 lightning work? The rotor I am looking at on ebay says it's an 11.5 rotor.
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Jramsey
Posted on Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 10:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

X1 front rotor measures 13-1/2".
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Scow1
Posted on Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 10:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Damn, thanks for the info...
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Preybird1
Posted on Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 11:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't buy a stock rotor they suck and they warp up quick. I would buy a wave rotor from Al @ ASb. It is worth it's weight in gold! I waited 2 yrs before i could justify spending $309.00 on a rotor. Man i waited to long on buying a new one. It is the best single upgrade i have done to my X1.


here is a direct link

http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/6050.html
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Fahren
Posted on Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 11:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This one is great, and cheaper:
http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/5109.html
And instead of $25 for (5) mounting screws, you can order stock XB rear rotor mounting screws, still spendy at $12: http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17067.html
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Preybird1
Posted on Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 03:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you like rust on you rotor then go for it. I don't like things that rust.
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Fahren
Posted on Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 03:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ride more, rust less.



(Message edited by fahren on April 02, 2011)
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Guell
Posted on Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 03:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

yea no rust on my ebc rotor, its far better than stock.
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Preybird1
Posted on Saturday, April 02, 2011 - 06:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

LOL fahren.
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Sunday, April 03, 2011 - 02:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Russ, you still have that old rotor? What pads are you running?
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Scow1
Posted on Monday, April 04, 2011 - 07:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does anyone know what other rotors from other bikes will work with this rim? I know my vtx I can use cbr f4 rotors for a better replacement than stock.
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Al_lighton
Posted on Monday, April 04, 2011 - 03:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And instead of $25 for (5) mounting screws, you can order stock XB rear rotor mounting screws, still spendy at $12:

Be careful.... They are both threadlocked, grade 8 torx 5/16-18 bolts of the same length. HOWEVER, the 16067 has a .210 long unthreaded shank length on them that the 17024 bolts do NOT have. The grip length on the 2000 spec rotor is about .180 or so. The consequence of this is that the bolts could potentially torque up to value WITHOUT HAVING THE RIGHT PRELOAD ON THEM. This would result in a fatigue failure of the bolt and that could have disastrous consequences. If you relieved the first .050" or so of threads in the wheel for that unthreaded shank length, it'd likely work fine.

I agree that $24 for 5 bolts is silly. But that's what HD charges for those bolts, and front brakes are one place where I don't screw around. Other bolts would probably work fine, but I don't want to defend that lawsuit when the don't and someone gets hurt or killed.

Al
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Breadman
Posted on Monday, April 04, 2011 - 03:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"...and front brakes are one place where I don't screw around."

Pun intended?

SS
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Fahren
Posted on Monday, April 04, 2011 - 04:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Al, that's an interesting point, and I'm not enough of a bolt engineer-head, that's for sure!

I was just thinking the shouldered (non-threaded) area is actually stronger than the threaded area, since it has a thicker cross-section.
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Al_lighton
Posted on Monday, April 04, 2011 - 06:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You are correct..the joint is a much stronger joint if the unthreaded shank crosses the shear line. However, the mating hole must be designed to accept that non-threaded shank or the thread start will bind and cause the torque wrench to read the right torque without there actually being the right amount of bolt stretch for proper fatigue resistance. The castalloy wheels are not suitably relieved for a non-threaded shank. One could easily add that relief on a drill press with a drill stop, but I'd be hesitant to do it with a hand drill.

Al
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Scow1
Posted on Monday, April 04, 2011 - 06:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Will a 01 m2 front rotor work on and 02 x1? It seems like m2,s1 have the same front wheel/rotor, is that correct?

(Message edited by scow1 on April 04, 2011)
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Hootowl
Posted on Monday, April 04, 2011 - 06:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, they use the same rotor.
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Scow1
Posted on Monday, April 04, 2011 - 07:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Hootowl!
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Preybird1
Posted on Monday, April 04, 2011 - 10:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mike, No i chucked that hunk of steel before last years race schools! And i am using some lindal golds from AL. The best thing i ever did. With the wave\scalloped rotor the brakes are amazing now. I couldn't explain it other than...It was like before i had no brakes, And now there are super brakes on it.

I even tried to machine the old rotor down on a brake lathe...That didn't work so well and the warp came back in like a week.
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2011 - 04:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"If you like rust on you rotor then go for it. I don't like things that rust."

You think stock tuber rotors are bad.. ever seen a stock Uly muffler?
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Scow1
Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2011 - 10:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So stock rotors really are not that good? I should spend alittle extra and get a ebc or waved rotor to improve braking I take it.
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2011 - 11:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I remember that conversation now Russ.

Scow1, it depends on how you ride. I had a stock rotor I thought was warped, but tried a different set of pads and they cleaned up the noisy warped feel. They also worked quite well for the several track days I did and have held up well to my general commuting duties and canyon rides.

PB1 has a bike that was abused then put away regularly, or perhaps irregularly, until he bought it. Now it's got a 100+hp motor (118?), and he's run it on a very tight, twisty closed course. If the EBC's held up to all that go and whoa they are sure to be quality parts.

I'm sure a lot has to do with your particular bike, how you ride it, and your particular braking habits.
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Preybird1
Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2011 - 11:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes mike is right 118 at the rear wheel. I can't remember the exact warranty on the scalloped rotor i got from AL. Some of the warranty was in German. But i swear it was guaranteed not to ever warp. Dam now i wish i had saved the papers that came with it. Stock rotor will eventually warp up and depending on how you use your brakes makes all the difference. Think about this....If you race the bike around and get the brakes really hot and you park the bike. The part of the rotor that is in the caliper still and the pads against it cool far slower than the other part of the rotor that is in open air and this can really warp it up. My front rotor was so warped it shook violently. So i got used to braking with the rear brake...Lol the rear brake on an X1 doesn't help much.

I was going to go with a cheaper rotor but the word rust stopped that. and i really like the look of the waved\scalloped rotor. But i didn't want chance another stock rotor doing the same thing. So that's how i decided.
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Scow1
Posted on Wednesday, April 06, 2011 - 03:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks preybird1 that is exactly what I wanted to hear. I will look for either an ebc or galfer rotor and not even worry about a stocker.

Would any of you guys ever buy a used ebc or galfer rotor?
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Fahren
Posted on Wednesday, April 06, 2011 - 04:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Probably not, unless I know the bike and/or the seller really well.
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Fullauto
Posted on Saturday, April 09, 2011 - 07:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

On my '99 X1 I've had the stock rotor, then the Braking wave rotor and now the EBC from Al and I'm inclined to think that the EBC is the best of them. For a progressive action with best feel this is the one.
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Scow1
Posted on Sunday, April 10, 2011 - 04:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Which ebc front rotor are you guys running?
MD719RS or MD734RS? Is the only difference the bolts where the 734 needs button bolts and the 719 needs the flat bolts?
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