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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Troubleshooting (Poor Starting/Running/Handling/Ride Issues) » Multiple mechanical issues addressed.....now dialing in ECM? « Previous Next »

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Lytningrydr02
Posted on Friday, June 10, 2022 - 05:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I ride a 2002 White Lightning with a race ECM and headers. Installed an after market air intake from American Sport Bike. I've been working on multiple mechanical issues this last year. 1. Broken exhaust manifold stud. Was able to extract and replace stud and seals. Also repacked muffler. 2. Replaced intake gaskets, had injectors cleaned and tested. New fuel pump and filter. 3. Replaced IAT,O2, and complete fuse/relay replacement. 4. New coil,plugs,and wires. Now it's time to ride? I have a Buelltooth dongle and my AFV reads 78.4. Was getting a "rear O2 always rich code 13". Think I found the issue. My battery had wore into the wiring harness and scuffed the green/yellow wiring to my ECM. That was the air intake temp sensor wiring. Also, scuffed up the tan/white lead to the ignition relay. Explains why a new battery was struggling to crank over. Combined it made for a sputtering and miserable ride. My question is, should I just take a ride and let the ECM learn as I go. Or, should I reset the TPS and adjust the AFV to 100 before I hit the road. As it is that seems like it's forcing the bike to run real lean. I'm skeptical about riding with that lean reading. When I get into the throttle it really rips. Cruising in closed loop is where my problems were. I've had this bike for 20 years. Would really like to get it back in shape. Any suggestions....do I grip and rip or dial it in with a couple adjustments. Also have heard that disconnecting the O2 after adjusting the AFV might help with the ECM learning and adjusting to my repairs.
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Akbuell
Posted on Sunday, June 12, 2022 - 09:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Were it me, I would do a TPS reset and set the AFV to 100. Can't hurt. Ride for a while, and re-check the AFV to see if it has moved, and if so how much and which way.

FWIW, when I had the AFV trend low, I eventually found that the rear injector was leaking, causing the rear cyl to be rich, and the ECU compensated by leaning out the whole fuel map. There is a procedure in the service manual to check for a leaking injector, and it is simple to do.

Hope this helps, Dave
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Lytningrydr02
Posted on Sunday, June 12, 2022 - 05:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I did the TPS reset and set the AFV at 100 and had a significant improvement. Still had some popping and sputtering and still getting "O2 always rich" error. Closer inspection and I found the vacuum inlet missing its cap about an hour ago. Not sure how much this would effect the performance until I take it out for a ride again. This spring I did have the injectors professional cleaned and tested. They sent video of the testing process an only charged my 30$. I figured the injectors were the main issue. The bike sat for almost 2 years after I T-boned a wild turkey in flight. After sitting that long it needed some TLC. I was getting fuel dripping out of the air intake before I noticed the exhaust pipe loose on the front cylinder. That started the process of fixing all the things I did. I'm just wondering if all these issues combined would cause my AFV to drop that low. After a few test rides the AFV has not moved so I guess that's a good thing. Im still not happy with the performance. Will need to test again after finding the vacuum inlet cap missing. The question of how my AFV got to that point is still nagging me. I suspect my mapping is way off now so I'm considering finding the original mapping for a race ECM and setting it back to that. Only after I am sure that all the mechanical issues have been resolved. Is it common to have an ECM get so out of tune due to mechanical problems? And if so, how hard is it to get it back on track? Will riding it consistently bring the mapping around if no mechanical problems are present or will I need to do a deep dive into the ECM. That is an area I'm not comfortable messing with. I guess time will tell. Every situation is different and I'm probably asking to broad of questions.
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Akbuell
Posted on Monday, June 13, 2022 - 11:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It is my understanding that the programs (maps) are pretty bulletproof. ECM problems tend to be connectors or cracks in circuit boards.

After re-reading your initial post, I would continue riding and monitoring the AFV. A change of plus/minus up to 5 is OK.

Might do to unplug the O2 sensor from the harness, and the grey plug from the ECM. With the multimeter on ohms, check continuity from the sensor connector to pin 4 of the grey connector. Do a wiggle test while in there. The V/GY wire may have suffered chafing like the others you have found.

There are other tests to be found in the service manual. IF I am reading it correctly, unplug the O2 sensor, and run the engine. You should see 0.5V at the plug in on your multimeter. If so, the system is good, and your new O2 sensor MAY be an out-of-the-box failure. Bosch 12014 should be available at the auto supply store of choice.

Hope this helps, Dave
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Lytningrydr02
Posted on Monday, June 13, 2022 - 07:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Going forward I think it's a good practice to monitor my ECM on a more regular basis. Waiting till I have noticeable performance issue and THEN dealing with them is probably not the best idea. Lesson learned. Being 20 years old and not having any issues till now is not too bad at all. More proactive and less reactive. My concern is me riding along with these problems unchecked has messed with my mapping. Can't expect to fix them then hop on the bike for 10 minutes at a time and it ride perfectly. Anybody got the part # for patience.....appears I might need some. Will take your advice and double check the O2 sensor and wiring. It was exposed in the wiring package I repaired. Might as well clean up my grounds and check my engine temperature sensor. I noted that that was the only sensor I have not verified. Seems like a hard one to find a replacement for. I've been going thru threads to see if I can find a part number that does not involve me ordering one from overseas. Even if it tests good I would like to replace it. The cap on top of it has broken apart and the insulation on the wire is not looking good. If anyone has a lead on a suitable replacement that would be great. I appreciate the advice, Dave. This forum has a wealth of knowledge from guys who have "been there and done that". More patience and time on the road may be all I need.
Thanks -Keith
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Akbuell
Posted on Tuesday, June 14, 2022 - 12:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You are very welcome. Hope I was at least somewhat helpful.

As it happens, the battery died on my X-1, so off to the H-D dealer. While there, I checked to see if they had an eng temp sensor, p/n 32564-99. It seems that number has been superseded about 7 times. Anyway, the parts person (helpful and knowledgeable woman) wandered about the net, and discovered that 2 dealers in the nation MAY have one in stock.

Walters Brothers H-D, Peoria 309-697-1917
Volcano H-D, Gladstone, Ore 503-249-8653

Might be worth a call, Dave
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Lytningrydr02
Posted on Tuesday, June 14, 2022 - 11:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Doubled checked the O2 wiring. Getting 0.5 volts per specs. After my latest test drive no more code 13 O2 always rich. Seems like a little patience has paid off. Still some sputtering but will push on. This may be nothing, but I could swear that the bike fired up on the front cylinder then stalled. Tried again and it fired up just fine. Overall a huge improvement but that seemed odd. AFV has not moved and no more check engine light. Thanks for the tip on the ET sensor. Starting to feel like I'm almost there.
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Screamer
Posted on Tuesday, June 14, 2022 - 11:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think I might have some new temp sensors. I can check tomorrow.
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Lytningrydr02
Posted on Wednesday, June 15, 2022 - 09:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That would be huge if you could part with one of those. I'm afraid to start tugging on it without a replacement. It looks pretty nasty. Let me know what I need to do if you find one. Also found the ohms readings were off on my rear cylinder plug. Add that to the list. Put some iridium plugs in and it ran better. This has turned into Pandoras box.
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Lytningrydr02
Posted on Sunday, June 19, 2022 - 08:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I belive I have found to main issue on top of the other issues I have resolved. Still getting error 13 on my O2 sensor. Not as often as before but I took your advice, Dave. Double checked the fuel injector in the rear cylinder with my endoscope and found my valve was sticking. Probably the main reason my fuel mapping was all over the place. Thanks again Dave and Roger for taking the time to respond.
Rear valve
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Lytningrydr02
Posted on Sunday, June 19, 2022 - 08:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My front cylinder
Front valve
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Alex
Posted on Monday, June 20, 2022 - 01:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just for Your information: the stock and the race ECU as well is not capable of changing separate cells (or breakpoints)in Your fuel or ignition tables. It can only shift the whole tables up or down via the AFV correction value. So the assumption that the fuel mapping is all over the place is not correct. There´s no reason to look for the original race ECU tables either. As long as nobody has written data from outside to Your ECU´s EEPROM it still has the tables as delivered. So basically setting the AFV to 100 will make Your ECU "original" again.

(Message edited by Alex on June 20, 2022)
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