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Archive through August 17, 2011Mstrfrz30 08-17-11  01:39 am
         

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Two_seasons
Posted on Thursday, August 18, 2011 - 04:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sometimes the wiring to the cam sensor chaffs on a little metal tab inside the cam sensor mounting area. Check your wiring.

Put your coil up for sale here...
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/21/ 1020.html?1313643273

(Message edited by two_seasons on August 18, 2011)
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Thursday, August 18, 2011 - 09:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No sensor in stock! Looking... Will start to take it apart anyway and look, perhaps you're right and I won't have to find one
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Thursday, August 25, 2011 - 02:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Posted on Thursday, August 04, 2011 - 07:30 am:       
First, unplug the 3-wire connector near the battery and check for shorts between them on the sensor side. Then see if the red pin on the module side has 12 volts with the key and kill switch on. Briefly short the two non-red wires on the module side together with the key on and check for spark. If spark is good and no shorts exist, drill the rivets out of the timing cover plate and unscrew the plate under it and sniff for burnt smell. After that, it's replace and re-try."

Check for spark at the plugs or between these two wires??
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Thursday, August 25, 2011 - 03:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No shorts on the sensor side.
Module side 6v @ red and @ green

(Message edited by Mstrfrz on August 25, 2011)
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Harleyelf
Posted on Friday, August 26, 2011 - 06:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Spark happens at the plugs. When it happens between wires we call it "arcing" or "oh, shit". Voltage is close enough to the 5v the computer uses. Can you see the wire bundle enough to be sure nothing has cut it?
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Friday, August 26, 2011 - 06:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wires looked pretty old when I pulled the whole thing out. New sensor should be here next week. I think I'll add shielding as part of the new install. Put in a new O2 sensor too: it shouldn't have any more excuses after next week.
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Monday, August 29, 2011 - 05:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, new sensor installed and I THINK the problem is fixed! However, it now idles like crap! I aligned the new sensor identically to the old, so the timing should be correct, right? The idle adjuster has little effect, and it idles around 700rpm.
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Terrys1980
Posted on Monday, August 29, 2011 - 06:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anytime the cam sensor is removed static timing should be checked.
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Monday, August 29, 2011 - 07:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Static timing? What should that be?
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Terrys1980
Posted on Monday, August 29, 2011 - 09:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well the plate that your cam sensor attaches to is the static timing plate, so there is a chance it could be off a little. And no 2 sensors are exactly a like so sensor reading will slightly vary.

I have never checked mine but it seems like a simple process. The process does require lifting the back end of the bike and bumping the start button with it in 5th gear and also ECMSpy and cable.

I'll have the process posted shortly.
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Terrys1980
Posted on Monday, August 29, 2011 - 09:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This is from the XB service manual but the process should be very similar.


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Mstrfrz
Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 09:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Supercool! Can this be done with a multimeter (I don't have a Digital Technician)?
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Terrys1980
Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 10:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do you have ECMSpy and a diagnostics cable?
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Two_seasons
Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 10:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, you can use a multimeter for this check/adjustment.

Do pull the spark plugs. This will make it easier to move the pistons.

Absolutely make sure you are on the front cylinder compression stroke and, looking into the timing plug, note that the timing mark will move from left to right. Follow the instruction above to a T.

If you don't have a switching polarity multimeter, you'll need to reverse the leads once you verify the +5VDC at the left side of the timing plug.
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 10:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No ECMSpy. Where do I check this voltage?
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Terrys1980
Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 11:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The cam sensor connector. Try pins 1 and 2 or 1 and 3.
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 12:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, will try it tonite!
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Reepicheep
Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 01:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the ignition is on, you will hear the fuel pump cycle on the instant you hit TDC as well. I seem to recall being able to see a little LED in there somewhere as well, but it's been a while since I did it.
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Friday, September 02, 2011 - 12:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Runs a LOT smoother now, but the idle is still weird. The adjuster knob just doesn't have any affect. Response is also a bit sluggish: I think I'll advance the timing a few degrees.

It seems to stumble a lot now. I'd guess a TPS reset is in order, or possibly I bothered some wiring that is now loose. Going to Lubbock tomorrow (in Houston now) and will be riding back on Monday. IF ANYONE HAS ANY INPUT it would be appreciated: limping 500 miles is not something I'm wanting to do!
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Two_seasons
Posted on Friday, September 02, 2011 - 02:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You should be ok after so many cycles of the ignition that the ECM sees.

If you are still running rough when you get back, by all means do a TPS reset.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Friday, September 02, 2011 - 08:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Solve one problem at a time... I'd start with the idler adjustment.
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Saturday, September 03, 2011 - 02:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Retarded the timing a bit: much better. A little coughing thru the intake, though
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 12:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Retarded even more: seems ok. Any chance of a TPS reset w/out ECMSpy?
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Two_seasons
Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 01:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nope.

But you could take it to a dealer for that service.
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Mstrfrz
Posted on Thursday, September 15, 2011 - 12:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Going to a dealer ALWAYS sucks.
Fixing this problem seems to have unveiled others! Aaarrrgghhh! It runs great, sometimes, and I'm starting to question my fuel pump or it's wiring now.

(Message edited by Mstrfrz on September 15, 2011)
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