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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Troubleshooting (Poor Starting/Running/Handling/Ride Issues) » Archive through July 22, 2008 » 1999 buell s3 (running problem) « Previous Next »

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Ford92
Posted on Sunday, May 18, 2008 - 08:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a 1999 buell starts well after a minutes it starts spitting thru the air filter sometimes shuts off. starts right up. take it out on the road and it takes gas find runs right up thru gears level out it starts spitting again?}
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Bad_karma
Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2008 - 01:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

David
First check for fault codes. Next check your intake seals. Also check your wires and plugs.
Joe
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Ford92
Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2008 - 11:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks Joe, I have done those, another thing I have done is pulled each plug wire and ran it on each cylinder by it self, when I did that it did not spit? I appreciate any and succestions.thanks dave
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Ford92
Posted on Wednesday, May 21, 2008 - 12:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

forget what I said about running on a single cylinder maybe I didn't run it long enough it does shut off, I thinking it might be sticking valves? thanks for any for ideas you might have.
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Ford92
Posted on Friday, May 23, 2008 - 11:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well heres where I'm at. took it out yesterday it ran terrible, today I put a fan in front of it and let it run and for some reason it wasn't spitting but did shut off a couple of times. then it stop firing on the rear cylinder, pull the plug and it was very black put in new one and started it it shut off and now it won't start. had this bike for 8 mouths put 300 miles on it. I still have my Harley. so this one is being replaced by a bmw 1100s. thanks, Joe for your input.
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Mark61
Posted on Friday, May 23, 2008 - 08:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Where do you live at? Toona was discussing buying a tuber on another forum here. Might be you can help each other out and keep a buell in the "family" so to speak....

mark61
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Sparky
Posted on Friday, May 23, 2008 - 09:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When you're having over-richness problems like this, I think all fuelie Buells need to be ridden at what, 3500 rpms at constant speed for about 5 minutes? This is to let the ECM learn the environmental operating conditions and self-adjust the AFV (Adaptive Fuel Value) for the altitude, air and engine temperature.

The whole purpose for doing that exercise is to normalize the closed loop operating conditions that are governed by the oxygen sensor. Now, it may just be that your O2 sensor is shot or it's wiring is flaky or something is amiss with this part of the EFI system.

Maybe you are not aware of this but the 1999 model year EFI Buells had some teething problems with wire harness issues. Yours may not be sorted out with respect to this particular problem and there is an intermittent wire from a sensor that is causing all your problems?

Where this is leading is that, if all the normal mechanical things like intake manifold seals are good, the IAT, ET and O2 sensors prove to be nominal and the TPS is properly calibrated, maybe there is an insidious broken wire in any of the sensor imputs to the ECM that is messing up the werks. At this point, it takes a dedicated Buell enthusiast with a lot of LOVE for delving into the unknown to sort it out and make it right. Not to mention a lot of time.
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Ford92
Posted on Saturday, May 24, 2008 - 08:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just had a bad moment, I am not ready to give up my Buell I had one before and sold it to get a Harley FXDX , which I still have and will keep. I missed my Buell so I bought this one which is a nice bike the engine is find but has not ran right sense I had it.now it will not start getting spark but no fuel. I live in NJ and when I went for parts all but one said they they don't deal much with buells
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Mark61
Posted on Monday, May 26, 2008 - 07:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I hear ya. Try contacting Liberty HD listed on the dealer's page here. Heard nothing but good about them. Hell even Court takes his stuff there! What higher recigintion can you ask for?!?

mark61
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Ford92
Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2008 - 06:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi, I am back my PC was down. This what I done replaced the 02 sensor, I took on the high way and held it at 3500 for 10 minutes it ran o.k., then I left the high way and was running somewhat better then the engine light came on still was better then before but not good. when I got home I let sit for a couple hours then I started it, stated spitting out the air filter again then it foul both plugs. I install the wire and to get code readings I kept getting several? mark, I know about liberty but they are about eighty miles I just don,t have the time.
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Sparky
Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 01:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I take it when you installed the wire, that was to read the fault codes. If so, can you tell us what those readings were?
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Ford92
Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 10:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi, numbers 11-13-23-44,15, tps, 02,fuel injecter,bas,iats, another promblem I have is the neutral indicater if the key is on kick stand down it works as it should if the stand is up it stays on even when riding?
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Ocbueller
Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 06:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Kickstand switch has a tendency to short out. It can be bypassed by twisting the two wires together at the switch. This issue goes back to all the tubers. That is some guys only issue. Be aware that now you can start the bike on the stand (without pulling in the clutch?).

The fuel inj. bikes also tend to be touchy about having the correct charging voltage, and then also, having correct tps and afv settings done. Check the voltage across the battery terminals with the bike running both hot and cold and at idle and revving steady at about 3000. My voltage regulator seems to allow my battery to slowly overcook and then undercharge at different temps and speeds. Have ordered a new v/r from Appleton,H/D.
Hang in there and keep us posted.
SteveH
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Bad_karma
Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 01:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

David
Check you fuel injection buttery fly and make sure it is securely attached to it's shaft. Then a proper TPS reset?
Joe
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Sparky
Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 02:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, it gives 5 fault codes. That's a lot of problems to sort out. Did these problems happen all of a sudden or what?

In order to troubleshoot these, you'll need a breakout box and a service manual. Do you have these or can you get them?

For instance the first one, code 11, will set if TPS voltage signal is not within acceptable range which is 0.5 to 1.5 VDC at idle and 3.9 to 4.9 VDC at WFO. The service manual notes that any spike or disruption of voltage while slowly opening the throttle can cause an 11. One of the checks is the wiggle test of the wire harness. So the fault could be in the TP sensor itself or the wire harness connected to it.

I'm giving out some ideas here because the root cause is an unknown. If all these fault codes are because of low voltage spikes or dropouts, I'm leaning towards a grounding issue with the ECM 5 Volt signals. You might look at every place where there are ground wires going to the frame and verify that the ground lugs are clean and the metal is clean on the frame.

Also carefully check for broken wire strands on these ground wires, especially where the wire insulation may look good on the outside but inside there is a discontinuity. The best way to verify this is with a multimeter lead at at the ground lug and the other lead on the pin in the connector at the other end of the wire harness.
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Ford92
Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 11:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for all the input, where d0 I get a breakout box? I was reading on x1-files about checking the tps with volt meter but where do I attach it?
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Sparky
Posted on Wednesday, June 04, 2008 - 01:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a breakout box part number HD-42682 for the ECM from a 2003 XB9R service manual. I don't know if this would be the same for an S3. Perhaps someone with an X1 or S3 who knows could chime in and verify compatability.

I think this can be bought (or borrowed) at a HD/B dealer. Or maybe there's one on Ebay or at an independant shop? Sorry if this is not much help, but using a B.O.B. is much better than probing contacts or wires with sharp pointed objects.

But hey, if you're good at troubleshooting electronics by probing, be careful and go for it. Otherwise if you are not comfortable playing with hard-to-come-by gear, then don't. You don't want your friends to start calling you Sparky, do you? LOL.: )

On an XB9R, pin 2 is TP sensor signal, pin 7 is TP sensor ground at the ECM gray connector. I'm not saying these are the same pins on your bike. I would hope someone can confirm this yay or nay.

Can you get a factory service manual for your bike? All the important details, procedures and specs are spelled out there.
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Ford92
Posted on Thursday, June 05, 2008 - 12:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Right now If had the time I would strip the buell of all the plastic and dig right into the wiring harness. but I don,t so I am going to have to get a breakout box Or maybe the scan tool from american sport bike I always like doing my own work but FI bikes a new to me I didn't have any promblems with my other buell?
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Ford92
Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 - 10:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi, I just want you guys to know I appreciate all your input. I just have to get the right tools and the time. and will fill you in later. Thanks again Dave
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Sparky
Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2008 - 08:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi Dave,
One thing to consider when reading this digital data is that some of the fault codes may be historic codes. That means, I think, a code could be reporting a problem that was recently fixed but it is still in memory as a historic code and not a "current" fault. So, if you fixed the O2 sensor, the fault code would still report as a historic fault and not a current fault.

Where this digital stuff gets more refined is that there is aftermarket software (ECMSPY) and/or proprietary tools (HD Digital Technician HD-44750) that can speak to the ECM and clear historic codes and do much more.
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Ford92
Posted on Saturday, June 28, 2008 - 03:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well here is what I have, I bought the scan tool from American sport bike. Sparky, You were right the codes were historic. I cleared them and then started the engine it stated right up but did start spitting again. I have no new codes. I let it sit overnight, today I started the engine it shut off, I found there something wrong with the connector to ECM gray one I just lay my finger on and it changes, the only way I can keep the engine running is to keep wiggling the connector? I have no Idea how to change this? Dave
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Sparky
Posted on Sunday, June 29, 2008 - 03:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ah, OK. You found a condition you can put your finger on... literally (bad pun, sorry : )).

If there is an intermittant condition with the gray ECM connector, can you tell if it is with the wire harness that connects to the ECM connector? The fact that you can make it intermittant by pressing on the connector really narrows the problem area to one place.

That would be the easiest thing to check out. That would involve probing each pin on the wire harness connector with a multimeter and tracing the other end of the wire (using the wiring diagram from the service manual) to verify continuity or lack of continuity in the case of an intermittant wire. The root cause of the problem might turn out to be a poor solder joint on a wire. That's easy to fix.
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Ford92
Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2008 - 10:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi, Here is what I have, I used an ohm meter and checked my wires to my sensors found nothing wrong,most time it starts and shuts right off I wiggle the gray plug and it will change and won't start except when I move it. I am leaning to the ECM. but these are not cheap so without knowing for sure I am not buying one. It is not giving me any code readings. I might just part this thing out. Dave
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Ford92
Posted on Friday, July 04, 2008 - 03:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi, I was thinking with some installing the race EMC. someone must have a good stock used one at a decent price? please let me know. thanks Dave
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Sparky
Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2008 - 10:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When you say you "checked my wires to my sensors found nothing wrong," how exactly did you do this? Did you disconnect the ECM and probe the contacts in the mating wire harness connectors?

I would examine the contacts in the gray wire harness connector very closely looking for a recessed pin or dirty/contaminated condition. Also check the contacts in the ECM.

If these appear to be OK, the next thing is to do a wiggle test on the harness while checking continuity on each contact.

If the problem is in the wire harness side, it won't be any help to replace the stock ECM with a race ECM.
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Ford92
Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2008 - 11:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

well, I did clean the contacts in the gray wire harness connector and the EMC checked the pins in both, I wiggled the wires so much I got the shakes. the only thing I can do to make any changes is where it plugs into the EMC if I press on it a little it won't start I move it around sometimes it starts and shuts right off. the guy I bought it from said the harley dealer replaced a lot of electric parts on it. I really believe he sold because they never really fixed it. going by when he got it last inspected and the odometer it had to sit over a year before I bought it
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Ford92
Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2008 - 12:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sparky, I wasn't speaking about putting a race EMC what I was saying was that with some guys replacing the stock ones with the race one there must be some stock ones around. well I found a used stock one with 800 miles on it on the web after installing it the bike started right up and stays running. now I have to set the tps, the manuel reads it should be 1.5 volts but I cannot get it below 1.88 with the engine warm up.
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Sparky
Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2008 - 01:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh, sorry, I misread what you posted about getting a stock ECM.

You had the right idea all along by suspecting a bad ECM and replacing it with a good one. Congratulations on a job well done. Hey, and it's still riding season!
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Ford92
Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2008 - 10:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for everything.Happy riding
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Ford92
Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2008 - 09:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

had this thing running pretty good. ready to take trip started ran bad reset the TPS and now it won't idle have to keep playing the throttle. this is this buell last chance. some vacation
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