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Edmbueller
Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2007 - 01:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

2004 XB12R 9200Kms. Woke up to go to work, the clock had reset itself. Thought to myself hmmm...better get the battery looked at one of these days (still the stocker I believe) went to my chiropractor, hit the starter and CLACK CLACK CLACK...push started the bike to get it to the nearest shop. 5 minutes down the road I lose the speedo, tach, and lights...then chugga chugga die...no more go. Cycled off and on, no characteristic fuel pump whine. Dropped it off at a shop that I know and trust. Not a Buell shop, not even a HD shop but the two owners are ex HD guys and one of them was buell certified when he was there. Long story short...battery or charging system? I am sure they are gonna figure it out but I am sitting at home and thought I would ask the all knowing badwebbers...
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Damnut
Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2007 - 01:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

sounds like battery to me
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Thespive
Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2007 - 01:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Battery for sure. Three years on a m otorcycle battery that doesn't get ridden regularily is about right.

--Sean
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Diablobrian
Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2007 - 01:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Sounds like there wasn't enough power to start it, then you ran on the battery until there wasn't enough juice left to run
the ECM. That is a bad Battery, Voltage regulator, or Stator (in order of cheapest and easiest to replace to the hardest)

First off though be sure that the connections to the battery are good.
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Saintly
Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2007 - 06:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Sounds like charging system to me.

Granted his battery was low, hence the no start with button.

But once he pop started it, the charging system should have kicked in and been able to sustain all the components needed to run AND it should have begun to replenish the battery.

For it to go 5 miles and then lose lights, means he was running strictly off of the battery. This sucked all remaining juice out of the battery until there wasn't enough left to run. hence it died.

All the while his charging system did nothing.
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Indy_bueller
Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2007 - 06:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

That's exactly what my bike did when the Stator died. As far as the fuel pump not cycling. Check and make sure you put the ECM fuse back in properly after you pulled it out to check it, assuming thats what you did.
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Edmbueller
Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2007 - 10:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks guys I was thinking stator too. How much work / cost is involved in changing the stator?
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New12r
Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2007 - 10:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Assuming what the problem is will get you no where.

Do a full on diagnostics with a fresh battery before you go replacing stators/regulators.
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Lost_in_ohio
Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2007 - 11:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I second the charging system. once started it should have kept running and not died out.
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Xb9
Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2007 - 11:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Bad connection or ground?
Always check the basics first!
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Reepicheep
Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2007 - 01:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Like XB9 said... check the battery connections... pull them and clean them.

But it does sound like a stator issue. That's also a very easy check, and usually gives a very clear "good / bad" result.

Measure each pin to each other pin and look for low ohms (like 5 ohms?). If any are infinity, then the stator is toast. Then check each pin to ground. These should all be infinite ohms, if any read below many megaohms, then the stator is toast. If those pass, do one more test and start the bike up, then disconnect the stator, and look for high AC voltages coming out of the stator (45 volts AC?).

15 minutes of testing and you can either rule the stator out, or know it's the problem.

Replacing the stator is not a huge deal, but you are pulling the primary cover, and the clutch / stator bell / primary chain as a unit. You will need some "big freaking sockets" and to get or make a simple aluminum locking bar. You can probably reuse all the (now metal) gaskets, but having new ones to put back would not hurt either.
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Cgocifer
Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2007 - 02:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

My bike was doing very similar things. It shut off on me on the freeway, would turn over, then die. After reading numerous threads, I checked the hot lead on the battery. Sure enough it was loose. Tightened it and all is perfect again.
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Edmbueller
Posted on Saturday, July 21, 2007 - 02:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Twas the voltage regulator. Easy, cheap <$100 fix!!!


BUT....

None in Canada, none in the Northwestern States, not even BuellerAndy had one in stock. Gonna be down for a cpl weeks while I wait for Andy to get one from Buell and out to me...

Big thanks to Andy by the way!
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Saturday, July 21, 2007 - 04:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Make sure you test the stator.
Sometimes, failure of one leads to failure of the other.

I also read on here somewhere that some guys found the regulator's connectors were crappy.
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Dbird29
Posted on Saturday, July 21, 2007 - 12:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Same battery as some VRod models.
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Lamo
Posted on Saturday, July 21, 2007 - 02:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Check the two pin connector from the regulator to battery behind the sprocket guard ,can get hot enough to melt the connector block if the connection is poor .
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Buellerandy
Posted on Saturday, July 21, 2007 - 02:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hey Darcy, your welcome. Like I said on the phone, I would've had one for you if mine hadn't stopped working the day before!
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Thepup
Posted on Saturday, July 21, 2007 - 07:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Check the connector between the VR and battery,it melts and causes the connection to go bad.
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Edmbueller
Posted on Sunday, July 22, 2007 - 08:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks for the tips guys! Sucks to be down for about 2 weeks just for a $80 part...still in shock that there is not one anywhere in Canada...once again the HD network lets a Bueller down...good thing there is Badweb here to save my arse. Guess I am really gonna be hooped when I get my 1125R LMAO

(Message edited by edmbueller on July 22, 2007)
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