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Buell Forum » XBoard » Buell XBoard Archives » Archive through February 28, 2005 » Passenger bracket heel protector problems « Previous Next »

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Kowpow225
Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2005 - 03:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Don't laugh. I'm trying to get the passenger heel protector "blades" off, but they're torqued down TOO much so I can't replace them with my shiny new chrome ones. I fit the allen key in the head and twisted like hell until it broke my allen key! I tried the a different screw with another key and twisted the head out of the screw. Jeez! I think I'll have to notch the stripped one out so I can get a bigger screwdriver on it. Has anyone else had this problem? In any case I'm going to replace all 4 screws in the end. Now I wonder how hard it will be to remove the rider ones next. Any tips?

(Message edited by kowpow225 on February 24, 2005)
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Buelliedan
Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2005 - 04:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

heat it with a little beat of propane torch to melt the locktite.
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Fullpower
Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2005 - 04:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

first: obtain a 3/8 drive hand impact driver tool. the kind you whack with a hammer. use this device with high quality bits from snap-on, MAC, proto, or craftsman for the intact un boogered screws. for the already thrashed fasteners, you will need a very sharp, high quality center punch, and a small 8 or 12 ounce ball pein hammer. wearing safety glasses, apply the pointy end of the punch to the screw head, about 3/4 of the way out from center, tapping gently , place a slight dimple or punch mark, then re-align the punch, so that the next blow will cause a counterclockwise rotation of the screw head, and give another slightly more aggressive tap. this will likely begin the loosening process, if not tap a bit harder. one can usually in this fashion chase a badly boogered screww around enough to where you can grab it with pliers, and replace it with a fresh one. good luck. dean
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Starter
Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2005 - 08:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Use a soldering iron on the offending fastner to give it heat to "burn" the loctite. Then remove normally. Tap out is the safest way to remove the stuffed fastners. Try not to use easy-outs as usually on fastners this size you just turn it into a can't-drill-that-out.
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Brad_buell
Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2005 - 09:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Had the same problem Kowpow225! I haven't tackled the situation, yet. I'm glad that you asked the question. Now I know that HEAT is the trick. I just thought that I had an unusual circumstance.

-Brad
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Starter
Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2005 - 09:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Heat usually works in any case where loctite is the culprit. As for corrosion I have no asnwers there.
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Kowpow225
Posted on Thursday, February 24, 2005 - 09:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I've got the impact screwdriver tool you're talking about fullpower. I've had really good luck with them in the past, but never used an impact on an itty bitty allen screw! *laughs* Thanks to all for sharing your wisdom.

Brad, I'm glad I could help out.
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Tatsu
Posted on Friday, February 25, 2005 - 10:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Had this problem before. Had to drill the bolts out and they re-tap the hole. It sucks.
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