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Buell Forum » XBoard » Archive through July 20, 2011 » Rear engine mount removal? « Previous Next »

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Greg_e
Posted on Tuesday, July 19, 2011 - 09:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What is the trick to removing the bolts from the rear engine mount? The mount sticks out over the heads of all the bolts so I can't get a proper hex wrench in there. Tried a ball end wrench that I cut the L off the top so I could put a socket on it, and it is starting to round the inside of the bolt out.

Why the hell didn't they use a conventional bolt in that damn thing? The front mount was toast, figured it would be a good idea to replace the rear while the engine is out, have the part, can't get the old one off!
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Iamarchangel
Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2011 - 12:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Trick is leaving well enough alone.

However, now that you're there, the manual says to remove the forward two first, then remove the back two.

Looks challenging.

You'll be happy to know they're torqued to 25-27 ft/lbs.
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Greg_e
Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2011 - 12:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have applied well over twice that torque to try and remove them. Leaving well enough alone is fine, until the rubber breaks down due to age like the front mount started to do.

It may very well have to be left alone because I can't think of a way to get the bolts out without stripping the bolt heads out. The only thing I can try is to pack ice around the mount to try and shrink it and remove some of the tension on the bolts, but after 8 years they may be so set as to never come out.
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Whitetrashxb
Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2011 - 09:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

are u referring to the rear rubber isolator that mounts atop the cases? If u are i ran into the same prob, and ended up cutting the 'L' bend of an allen wrench shorter, for clearance.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2011 - 11:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

+1 on cutting allen wrenches down. We changed the broken rear mount on U4euh's XB9S at March Badness II in the parking lot of TWO. He'd had a crash earlier in the day and rode the bike ~20 miles back through twisties to TWO. We were looking over the bike later I happened to notice that the lower portion of the mount that bolts to the top of the engine cases had broken off around the bolts. Smokey Mountain HD/Buell allowed us to "borrow" a good mount off of a demo bike they had there. It took ~4 hours, ~10 Badwebbers, and profuse amounts of cussing to accomplish the swap. Erik was even there and he didn't know how to get the new mount out! We finally got the bolts out with a cut-down allen wrench some Badwebber produced in the parking lot.

You can also try needle-nose Vice Grips on the outside of the bolts; that might provide more torque than a ball head allen wrench. Worst case, cut the bolt heads off with a Dremel tool.
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Brother_in_buells
Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2011 - 12:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

tap the bolt heads lightly with a hammer!

it worked the last time i tried that
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Greg_e
Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2011 - 03:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah, I was going to try the hammer tonight when the temperature gets down to reasonable.
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