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Buell Forum » XBoard » Archive through August 23, 2010 » Removing rear wheel for tire change - anything I should know? « Previous Next »

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Cbig
Posted on Thursday, August 19, 2010 - 12:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I found a michelin rp2 rear but I would rather remove the tire than have the shop do it. (Properly placed paranoia)
I have not been able to get a repair manual yet. Any tricks I need to watch out for - such as how to un tension the belt prior to removal?

Thanks,

Chuck
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Boltrider
Posted on Thursday, August 19, 2010 - 12:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

No need to mess with belt tension. It will loosen up when you loosen up the rear axle.

Only big thing to remember is to use plenty of anti-seize on the rear axle when you slap it back together. Also be sure not to over torque the axle. The book says to tighten axle to 25 ft/lbs, back it off, then tighten to 48 - 52 ft/lbs.
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Slaughter
Posted on Thursday, August 19, 2010 - 12:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Don't forget PINCH BOLT
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Doz
Posted on Thursday, August 19, 2010 - 12:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I just sneak off the tensioner...since there is no adjustment to be had. Also remove the caliper, loosen pinch bolt and undo the axle. Use anti-sieze on the axle when re-assembling.
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Sifo
Posted on Thursday, August 19, 2010 - 01:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The manual tells you to loosen about 15 turns. That gets the belt loose enough to remove the tensioner pulley. That will get it slack so that you can get it out without forcing or twisting the belt. Twisting the belt is BAD. Axle goes back in like Boltrider said. Pinch bolt torque is 40-45 ft/lbs. Idler pulley bracket torque is 33-35 ft/lbs. Of course the belt guards have to be taken off to get the belt out of the way.

Assembly - Get the belt on the pulley, install the axle loosely. Install the belt tensioner. Tighten axle as specified above. Install belt guards.

Anything else missing?
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Cbig
Posted on Thursday, August 19, 2010 - 01:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

u guys r great...!

Hopefully with time I will have more to contribute as the miles pile up like they did on the M2's

Chuck
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Andymnelson
Posted on Thursday, August 19, 2010 - 02:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Absolutely NO NEED to remove pulley or rear caliper. Just take your time and pay attention and you'll be fine.
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Ourdee
Posted on Thursday, August 19, 2010 - 04:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

+1 I'm with Andymnelson.
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Dc29
Posted on Thursday, August 19, 2010 - 08:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Just having a good means to get bike off ground for tire removal is a bigger hassel than the removal it self.
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Iamarchangel
Posted on Thursday, August 19, 2010 - 08:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I didn't remove guards, just the pulley cover.

Tensioner assembly: maybe no need but it did make it easier.

Job is easier than it looks.

Spend a bit more time looking for the manual. I think some other buell sites actually have it.
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Brightbuell
Posted on Thursday, August 19, 2010 - 09:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

What is the recommendation to lift the bike to change the rear tire if you have a modded pipe that you dont want to dent? What other options or tricks are there to lift the bike? Come on, you guys have an answer for everything. Help a brother out.
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Forerunner
Posted on Thursday, August 19, 2010 - 10:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

What everyone else said.

I went ahead and removed the caliper since it was only 2 bolts and I was afraid of chipping the wheel finish against it.

If you are like most and less clumsy than I am you should be fine.

YMMV,
Nels
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Forerunner
Posted on Thursday, August 19, 2010 - 10:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Brightbuell,

I can't recommend a wheelstand enough. I have a D&D pipe that will support a jack and I still opt for the wheelstand.



YMMV,
Nels
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Iamarchangel
Posted on Thursday, August 19, 2010 - 10:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Bike stand. I use the cheaper one with the little angle and rubber pads mounts. Had to move the little spring on the angle to the outside but it works for changing the wheels. Don't think I'd sit on it and rev the engine but I wouldn't do that with any stand.

Get one, heck, get one for the front as well. Nice for all sorts of other jobs, washing, looking pro, etc.
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Niceguyeddy
Posted on Friday, August 20, 2010 - 01:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Definite +1 on the stand (pit bull IF you want my opinion).
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Tastroman
Posted on Friday, August 20, 2010 - 11:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I chocked my front wheel, laid a 1x4 across a scissor jack placed under the rear jacking point on the exhaust and raised just the rear wheel.
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Cbig
Posted on Friday, August 20, 2010 - 04:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Got it. Forgot I had a funmover toyhauler to tie it down and atv jack. Pretty much used the muffler as a jack point.

Thanks...n need for a 150 dollar stand.
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Ourdee
Posted on Friday, August 20, 2010 - 05:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I always tie it to the rafters just in case.
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