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Hotrod427
Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 01:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Has anybody resurfaced a ZTL2 brake rotor? I was wondering if it could be done properly on a magnetic-chuck surface grinder. My rotor isn't scored or worn excessively, but I do notice significant front brake pulsing during "light" stopping. From automotive experience I've attributed this to rotor warp. Any input?
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Strato9r
Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 01:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The original rotor on my bike had a bit of a pulse as well, and when I set up a dial indicator on it, it had less than .001" runout. The problem was that there was a bit of glazing on the surface of the rotor, and my dealer was happy to replace it. I've heard that having the surface of the rotor glass beaded will clean up the glazing nicely, but have no personal experience with doing that on an XB style rotor.

As far as resurfacing an XB rotor, one of the problems you might run into is this: Because there is no "carrier" that mounts the rotor to the rim, the disc itself would have to be mounted directly to the chuck surface. If the disc is indeed warped, and the magnetic force of the chuck actually pulls the disc flat against it's surface as it is ground, the warpage may still actually remain in the piece and return once the magnetic field is removed, and the metal returns to it's "normal" state. I've resurfaced similar items (non-motorcycle) where I actually had to carefully shim under certain areas of a warped disc, grind the upper surface, which could then be mounted directly against the chuck, allowing the other side to be ground parallel. But, talk about time consuming. For the cost, it may be cheaper to replace it; Erik Buell Racing has them in stock, at a good price.
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Hotrod427
Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 02:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Good call Strato, I hadn't thought of that aspect. Guess I could check it on the surface plate first to see if it actually IS warped. Hadn't taken into account that it is a floating rotor. Hopefully it is only some spot glazing and can just be cleaned up. Appreciate the input bro!
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Rays
Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 05:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hotrod, before you go to the trouble of removing the rotor try riding in the rain.
I had brake shudder on my '06 12X so bad the handlebars would visibly shake and quite by accident noticed that after a ride home from work in pouring rain the brakes were suddenly smooth again.
The shake was back again after a few hundred miles and the rotor had a mottled look from what I assume to be pad deposits left on the rotor.
I went to SBS sintered front pads recommended by my local HD shop and have never looked back. I had those problems at about 12,000miles and with just over 60,000miles (and several sets of pads later) I still have the original rotor. With these pads the braking area on the rotor is quite shiny - no mottled deposits.
You may very well have a warped rotor but pad deposits from the standard pads is a common issue and relatively cheap to test.
There are lots of after market pads that different people recommend - SBS just happened to be what I could get locally.
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Gentleman_jon
Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 07:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Light pulsing may be caused by rotor warp, but the chances are that it is not.

The stock brake pads often leave deposits on the rotor which are easy to remove.

Just remove the rotor and put it on the table of an ordinary drill press. Then install a disc brake hone, available from American Sport Bike, and give the disc a light hone as your or a friend moves it under the hone.

Then use a different pad, such as Lyndall Golds, which do not leave deposits.


x
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Trojan
Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 07:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You normally don't need to go to the trouble of honing the disc, but can remove the deposits left by the (crap) stock pads with brake cleaner and a Scotchbrite pad.

The problem with these deposits left by stock pads was known about since 2002, so why oh why didn't they change the pad material over the next 7 years?

Almost any of the aftermarket pads will eliminate this problem. I prefer Braking pads but SBS, EBC and other decent pads will be good too.
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Gentleman_jon
Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 08:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I agree with Trojan.

It sort of depends on how bad the deposits have gotten.

Of course, when using brake cleaner, one always needs to make sure it doesn't get on paint or powder coating: it can dissolve them.
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Andymnelson
Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 11:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yup, remove the deposits with some sandpaper, scotch brite pad or similar. Ditch the stock pads, and go with one of the recommendations above (however, I had VERY bad pulsing with Lyndahls), and be sure to use the rear brake only when holding yourself at a stop- holding the front clamped down will "cook" the deposits onto your rotor.
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Froggy
Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 11:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)


quote:

The problem with these deposits left by stock pads was known about since 2002, so why oh why didn't they change the pad material over the next 7 years?




Because the stock pads aren't the primary cause of it. You can get pulsing from Lyndall pads and other aftermarket pads too.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 01:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)


quote:

The problem with these deposits left by stock pads was known about since 2002, so why oh why didn't they change the pad material over the next 7 years?




There is more to the story that I don't understand. I had an 05 XB9SX that I put 30k miles on, including two track days, and one deliberate "over heat the rotor" to resolve a question here on badweb. It never pulsed a day in it's life. Went through three sets of factory pads.

Now I have an 07 XB12X, and that rotor was an absolute mess. Lyndalls helped some, but not enough. The Erik Buell Racing 6mm rotor is now smooth as silk after several thousand miles.

No idea what was so special about the 9sx and stock pads...
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Sifo
Posted on Tuesday, August 17, 2010 - 11:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

My '06 XB12 never had problems with the stock pads, but I heard so much about these problems, and that Lyndall Gold pads prevent them that I switched to Lyndall Golds. Soon after the switch I had to ride in rain three days in a row. Right after that I noticed I had pulsing in the front brake.

Last week I did the whole bike wash thing after my vacation that involved some very dirty riding on muddy gravel roads. I don't usually "wash" it. The next day I was moving bikes around in the garage and noticed a perfect imprint of a brake pad on the front rotor. I assume that's where it was parked when wet and it left deposits on the rotor. I don't know if water is involved in the problem or not with the Lyndalls, but I'll be switching to something else when these wear out. I now other have had better experience with them.

I have scrubbed the rotors clean with a scotch-brite pad and simple green. That fixed the pulsing for a while, but it comes back. I don't think I'll go back to stock pads though. That puts the money in the wrong pockets at this point. I'd rather live with pulsing brakes.
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Terrys1980
Posted on Tuesday, August 17, 2010 - 05:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The Lyndall Gold pads are an organic compound that is why you keep having the pulsing issue. These pads do not have full braking effect until they are warm and fade when the temp gets to high. Try switching to sintered pads.
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