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Lacerda85
Posted on Friday, September 27, 2019 - 01:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Help with electrical does anyone know what are this for or if I’m missing anything on my 1125cr I have 4 to 5 codes on my cluster so I’m trying to see what’s going on



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Panshovevo
Posted on Friday, September 27, 2019 - 01:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had most of the 1125 harness pretty well memorized at one time, but three surgeries (two major, all w/general anesthesia), an XB, and a couple of tubers later, I’m going to have to refresh my memory.

Off the top of my head, I’ll guess the two wire plug was for the noise reduction solenoid (will throw a code when disconnected unless a race use only ECM is installed or a resistor plug is plugged in to the power plug) and the single wire plug might be the baro pressure sensor.

I’m heading back over to the shop shortly and will either confirm or correct this.

(Message edited by Panshovevo on September 27, 2019)

(Message edited by Panshovevo on September 27, 2019)
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Panshovevo
Posted on Friday, September 27, 2019 - 04:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The above is at least partially wrong.

The receptacle with the orange insert with two small holes may be upstream female portion of the noise control solenoid fitting.
(In other words, I was thinking it might be the wires from a disconnected solenoid. Right fitting, wrong wires)

The other, which I mistakenly IDed as a single wire, isn’t.

I need to dig a little deeper.

(Message edited by Panshovevo on September 27, 2019)
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Panshovevo
Posted on Friday, September 27, 2019 - 04:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The receptacle with the orange insert is the same as is used on the end of the solenoid wires, but the wire gauge and color are different..

Still digging...

Does anyone have a link to a pic of the “Harley Fix”?

My ‘09 had it removed before I bought it, and the ‘08s never needed one.
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Panshovevo
Posted on Friday, September 27, 2019 - 06:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Due to the location, and the fact that I can’t find those terminals/wires in that area or anywhere else in a spare main harness, I’m going to have to put my money on a disconnected “Harley Fix” for the charging system.

If I’m wrong, I’m open to being educated.
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Xbuell12s
Posted on Friday, September 27, 2019 - 06:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think you are right Pan, those are the plugs that are left after the Harley fix is removed.
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Joe7bros
Posted on Saturday, September 28, 2019 - 12:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I do believe the Harley fix gets plugged into the large grey connector with 3 yellow wires in the center of the picture, that's the connector from the stator to the VR
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Panshovevo
Posted on Saturday, September 28, 2019 - 10:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The Harley fix has multiple plugs. There is a power plug, a plug for the relay, and two plugs to tap in between the stator and VR, as I recall.
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Lacerda85
Posted on Saturday, September 28, 2019 - 12:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi Pan thank you for your help I really aprecia-te do you guys have any suggestion should I buy one and put it back I just got the bike it has codes for left and right fans but fans is working fine codes for o2 sensor error codes
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Panshovevo
Posted on Saturday, September 28, 2019 - 04:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have you tried rotating the fans by hand to make sure there is no drag or bearing roughness?

Are you certain both fans are hooked up and operating?

How many miles have you ridden this bike? How well have you gotten to know it?

Have you monitored the system voltage and the operating temperature on a reasonably long ride?
If so, are both within normal limits?

Did the seller give you any info on the status of the alternator stator and rotor? ‘09 models got a higher amp stator without compensation for the additional heat produced, and they tend to fry the stators.

The accepted fix is to replace the stator (or rewind it if you are technically savvy) and send the rotor off to have a small oil jet EDMed in it to spray oil on the stator to carry the heat away.

Jim Dugger, a racer and instructor who used to hang out here, once told me that if you keep the rpms up, you won’t have a problem...easier to do on a racetrack than on the street.
I believe the theory behind that thought was to keep the oil pressure up, and keep the oil circulating.

I’ll try to add more to this a little later.
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Joe7bros
Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2019 - 05:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Also, if the bike has the original Voltage Regulator (V/R) you should definitely replace it. The original is a shunt type V/R, and is a big contributor to the stators burning up; you want to replace it with a series V/R, which is much better in handling the excess voltage and heat produced by the stator; there is a whole sub-thread on this subject
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Panshovevo
Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2019 - 06:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don’t see a Vr in the picture, which would indicate that a non-standard one has been installed somewhere else, or the standard one has been moved.

I’m not totally sold on the theory of the Ducati regulator being such a bad thing. A little mouse at EBR Tech told me several years ago that the original regulator was the only way to go.
I don’t know for certain who I was communicating with, but I have a pretty good idea.

I had previously bought one of the pricy SH847 series units for my ‘09, but haven’t finished upgrading the motor yet. They have a good reputation, as far as I know. Most people have been mounting them in areas of increased air flow.

I found a unit that looks identical to the original sold by RM Stator on Amazon. They call it a mosfet VR/R, and sell it for around $80 on Amazon. Or they did a couple of years ago.
I bought a couple of them and put one on my first ‘08 R. It’s been working fine so far, but I haven’t put many miles on it.


Edit: I could be wrong...I don’t think there is a regulator in the standard mounting spot.

(Message edited by Panshovevo on September 29, 2019)
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Joe7bros
Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2019 - 07:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A series regulator "should" help with the stator's excess heat: "A series regulator is connected in series with the load to stabilize the regulator's output voltage. A shunt regulator, on the other hand, is connected in parallel to the load to stabilize the device's output voltage." And this: "https://www.polytechnichub.com/difference-shunt-vo ltage-regulator-series-voltage-regulator/"
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Panshovevo
Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2019 - 07:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

One thing I wonder is how an ECM controlled switching sequence for a shunt regulator will work out with a series regulator.

No doubt it’s been asked and answered sometime on the board.
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Lacerda85
Posted on Monday, September 30, 2019 - 07:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi guys thank you for your help so far this is all the codes that I have on my bike buell u0001 p0629 p0628 p0087 p0193 b1005 p0132 p0131 p1152 p0562 p0693 p0691 hi can explain what is the Harley Fix that you mention before
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Two_seasons
Posted on Monday, September 30, 2019 - 09:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

u0001 = High Speed CAN bus error
p0629 = Fuel Pump Circuit High
p0628 = Fuel Pump Circuit Low
p0087 = Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low
p0193 = Fuel Pressure Sensor Circuit High
b1005 = Fuel Level Sender High/Open
p0132 = Front Oxygen Sensor Circuit High/Engine Rich
p0131 = Front Oxygen Sensor Circuit Low/Engine Lean
p1152 = Bank Angle Sensor Shorted High
p0562 = Battery Voltage Low
p0693 = Left Fan Control Circuit Low
p0691 = Right Fan Control Circuit Low

With all these codes popping up, your battery may need to be replaced. Your 2009 Buell 1125R needs good voltage.

The "Harley Fix" was engineered at Harley-Davidson to fix the stator overheating problem (Buell made more amps available in the model year 2009 Buell 1125R). I am not familiar with it as I own the 2008 model, which did not have this issue.
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Panshovevo
Posted on Tuesday, October 01, 2019 - 08:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Lacerda85, if you could answer my questions above, it would help me help you sort this out.
Long distance troubleshooting is made easier by every scrap of information you can pass along.
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